ECU Diagnostics on 97 Sport
#1
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ECU Diagnostics on 97 Sport
The troubles I had are back.
Following a couple of threads on here about the ECU Diagnostic connectors. I tried it on MY97 Sport. I have 1 set of conectors on short, single wires, which when connected, the CEL light flashes all OK.
I'm assuming this is the ECU reset as the problems go away after I have done this. I have no green connectors under my dash. Does anyone know how to put the Sport ECU into diagnostic mode. I do have 2 wires with no connectors on them as in this picture . Does anyone know what they are for?
The problems I'm having are:
Stalling on start up even from cold.
when you go to pull off it stalls
Kangarooing under load (about 1k5 rpm up to 2k rpm)
when you blip the gas the revs rise then fall off then stalls.
Cheers
Simon
Following a couple of threads on here about the ECU Diagnostic connectors. I tried it on MY97 Sport. I have 1 set of conectors on short, single wires, which when connected, the CEL light flashes all OK.
I'm assuming this is the ECU reset as the problems go away after I have done this. I have no green connectors under my dash. Does anyone know how to put the Sport ECU into diagnostic mode. I do have 2 wires with no connectors on them as in this picture . Does anyone know what they are for?
The problems I'm having are:
Stalling on start up even from cold.
when you go to pull off it stalls
Kangarooing under load (about 1k5 rpm up to 2k rpm)
when you blip the gas the revs rise then fall off then stalls.
Cheers
Simon
#4
You had a flat battery recently or anything like that? Could be your alternator is a bit flaky, which can cause a lot of the symptoms you describe, though it tends to mean you battery goes flat, so maybe not.
It doesn't sound like the MAF, more like the speed sensor ot temperature sensor?
Either that, or you have a vacuum leak, though on the turbos this gives you a check engine light.
It doesn't sound like the MAF, more like the speed sensor ot temperature sensor?
Either that, or you have a vacuum leak, though on the turbos this gives you a check engine light.
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Think it might be the alternator, I haven't had a flat battery at all. But it has just stalled under full electrical load. But its now running fine, just tried it again on full load and nothing athough it did get a bit shakey.
Having said that, I did notice a hissing sound coming from the front lefthand side of the engine as you look down on it.
Having said that, I did notice a hissing sound coming from the front lefthand side of the engine as you look down on it.
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maybe idle air control valve. try removing and cleaning as it gets jammed up with condensed oil vapours.
to do the ecu reset on a MY97 turbo (assume its the same)
turn ign off, connect 2 single black wires(in connectors) then turn ign on, codes will then be displayed.
try doing an ecu reset then check codes after a drive(i disconnected battery for 1 hour to reset).
to do the ecu reset on a MY97 turbo (assume its the same)
turn ign off, connect 2 single black wires(in connectors) then turn ign on, codes will then be displayed.
try doing an ecu reset then check codes after a drive(i disconnected battery for 1 hour to reset).
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Originally Posted by Simon C
No codes are displayed, and where the hell is the IACV??? And what does it look like??
#10
Given your comments re: electrical load, if it is that noticable when you power stuff up, then I'd be very suspicious. These cars DO hiss a bit, so I wouldn't get too worked up about a vacuum leak just yet.
Certainly your symptoms do sound rather similar to inadequate power-supply, though this is by no means a guarantee!
Certainly your symptoms do sound rather similar to inadequate power-supply, though this is by no means a guarantee!
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Update: Its only doing this when the the engine is warm. Started just fine from cold and ran like it should. Temp gauge was indicating half hot and when I went to pull off it died.
If its been sat idling for longer then a couple of minuites then it all starts. Tried the full electrical load test again when I got into work and the engine was certainly having problems supplying the power, although didn't stall.
If its been sat idling for longer then a couple of minuites then it all starts. Tried the full electrical load test again when I got into work and the engine was certainly having problems supplying the power, although didn't stall.
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Just got a quote off the dealership for a new MAF £196.94 + vat!!!!
I'm taking the car over there tomorrow morning to put it on their diagnostic machine to see if that can pick anything up.
I'm taking the car over there tomorrow morning to put it on their diagnostic machine to see if that can pick anything up.
Last edited by Simon C; 23 July 2004 at 08:20 PM.
#13
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Just had someone else look over the car and they noticed I have a cracked down pipe. Spoke to the dealers and this apparently could be another cause of my problems, as its screwing up the O2 sensor.
£262 + vat for the replacement Downpipe.
£262 + vat for the replacement Downpipe.
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Im going to tempt fate here. I'd say its all fixed now. I've fixed a crack in the downpipe. Tomorrow will tell when it goes in for a diagnostics test. Taken it for a drive and from a rolling start can pull from 1k rpm in 3rd. Before it would stall.
Here's crossed fingers.
Here's crossed fingers.
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Final update:
I took the car to the dealers this morning after patching the crack in the down pipe. All reported ok on their diagnostic computer. And the car is now running fine. Moral of the story, it may not be any of the sensors, it may be your exhaust.
I must say a big thank you to Quimby's in Baldock for testing my car for free.
Thank you to all that have posted.
Simon
I took the car to the dealers this morning after patching the crack in the down pipe. All reported ok on their diagnostic computer. And the car is now running fine. Moral of the story, it may not be any of the sensors, it may be your exhaust.
I must say a big thank you to Quimby's in Baldock for testing my car for free.
Thank you to all that have posted.
Simon
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