jtabraham

I have a MY00 with PPP, would a dawes work OK with this ?
Does the dawes do away with the boost solenoid?
Is it easy to set up?
Is it worth doing?
All advice much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
JT

jtabraham

bttt

zhastaph

You really should do a search on Dawes and you will find 3 evenings worth of reading.

I've never fitted one myself, however I nearly did before deciding to change the car instead and this is what I understand.

The Dawes is a manual spring loaded boost controller that sits between the turbo and wastegate actuator. This stops boost pressure from acting on the wastegate until a certain predetermined boost level is reached. There are 2 upshots of this, firstly it stops wastegate creep which causes the wastgate to gradually open as the turbo winds up, thus speeding up spool up time. But also you can increase the max boost level.

My understanding is that removing the wastgate creep severly increases low down pull, and the upshot of increasing boost is obvious.

Yes, the boost solenoid is removed from the system, meaning in the event of problems the ECU can no longer kill boost.

If you are intending to fit one then you need to add at the very least;

A boost guage to set the system up
Either (or preferably both) a knock link and AFR, to keep an eye on the health of your engine.

And yes it will work on your MY00 PPP. I believe that providing they are used sensibly, then they are a reasonably safe way to achieve more performance from your motor.

zhastaph

Oh and BTW seeing as your almost a newbie, only search for the word "Dawes" and not "Dawes Device" as the search on here is really *** and it'll turn up posts with either the word "Dawes" or the word "Device" in it.

And if you saw some of the devices they bring up in the Muppets heaven begs wot sort of threads you're gonna turn up

jtabraham

Thanks for the advice.
JT

The_Judge

A spot on summary there. I'll just add my bit...

Consider the GBE manual boost controller, rather than the Dawes. It's cheaper, comes with a lighter ball so the boost is more controlled (apparently ), has a slightly larger bleed hole so boost spikes are less common, and there's less chance of full boost/part throttle problems leading to compressor surge.

The only downside to it is it doesn't come with any hose, and you need 2 different sizes, a slightly larger ID to connect to the device, and the normal ID hose to connect to the turbo and wastegate nipples. You can either use a reducer to connect the hoses together, or do what I did, and make sure the normal hose has the same size OD as the ID of the larger hose (if you get what I mean there!) and slip one into the other (ooh err).

Gangle

I bought a Dawes device for mine, my mate bought one for a higly modded GT5 too. Great bit of kit. Takes a while to set up exactly as you want it, but its the best power mod for little money. Faster spool up, quicker and more solid power delivery. You just have to keep your common sense when tweeking it..Oh look, i can run 2 bar boost!! You dont want to end up with a hefty rebilid bill.. I also have the AFR meter and Knock Link. Just to be safe. I run solid 1 bar boost, there is no problem with this either. Seems quite safe. I have blanked the pipe work for the solinoid etc, so the engine management still think its opperating. I found all the info on here. gets the thumbs up from me, but what do I know..

jtabraham

Hi all,
thanks for all the advice, anyone know what boost level is on a PPP MY00? I am getting a boost gauge when I fit the dawes or the other one.
Thanks
Julian

Mika

My car is MY00 PPP and it pushed 16 psi with PPP and now 17 psi with Prodrive Ecu and full 3" decat system.

Sorry for little hijack..
I'm thinking to get Dawes too. I use PSI3 Datamonitor to read the boost pressure, but what if I put Dawes, is the boost pressure right on the PSI3 or is it wrong 'cause we cheat the Ecu?




[Edited by Mika - 1/29/2004 6:25:32 PM]

Mika

Anyone ?

zhastaph

No, the ECU and PSI3 will still see the correct boost pressure.

You are only 'Cheating the ECU' by taking away control of the boost from the ECU and turbo by removing the boost solenoid, which the ECU uses to kill boost, and controlling supply of boost pressure to the wastegate which manually controls boost.

Mika

Thanks m8 !
Great !

easyrider

It is also worth adding that if you increase the boost too high, you will get boost cut(stopping you from putting too much boost on), you will know if you reach boost cut for sure as you will get a sudden loss of power-the only way the ecu doesnt have control of the boost(in simple terms) it that if the ecu detects knock, then it cant decrease the boost pressure to try to counteract it, which as i can see, is the only down side to having a manual boost control.
For what its worth,I had one on my previous MY98 set at just under 1.1 bar (covered 15k miles)and had no probs whatsoever.

hope this helps

easy

bigsinky

agreed. i ran my my96 wrx with dawes at 1.1 bar which is just on the boost cut limit. on cold nights flooring it in 5th would give me a bit of hesitation. dawes is a crude but effective way if increasing power cheaply. i also added boost gauge, knocklink and afr meter just to be sure.

cheers

big sinky