prodrive ecu
10 January 2004, 07:55 PM
#1
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ive just tried this ecu on my MY00 in place of my 802 to see what a difference it would make(its got a pipercross cone filter, prodrive intercooler y and hose, and a prodrive backbox). when i started the car it idled on the verge of stalling and the check engine light stayed on. took it up the road and it seemed to quite a bit more ooomph and run ok just tick over was iffy.
is there something else my car needs or is it just not right for my car.(i thought it would be like a direct replacement)
changed it back and cars back to normal
any advice would be greatly appreciated
thx
Andy
is there something else my car needs or is it just not right for my car.(i thought it would be like a direct replacement)
changed it back and cars back to normal
any advice would be greatly appreciated
thx
Andy
10 January 2004, 08:06 PM
#3
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They are supposed to have a different size restrictor in the boost pipe, but im not sure what size it is meant to be
the rest is plug and play
the rest is plug and play
10 January 2004, 08:49 PM
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Hi Andy,
My guess would be your MAFF sensor is faulty (neeeds replacing) when i changed my AE802 to a AE801 a while ago my idle was all over the place, and it turned out it was the MAFF. What happens is your old E.C.U learns about the any minor problems and combats them, but when you put in the other E.C.U it doesn't know about any minor problems (i.e the MAFF gone) and so will show this via your idle up and down.
Replaced my MAFF sensor and job done no probs now.
James.
My guess would be your MAFF sensor is faulty (neeeds replacing) when i changed my AE802 to a AE801 a while ago my idle was all over the place, and it turned out it was the MAFF. What happens is your old E.C.U learns about the any minor problems and combats them, but when you put in the other E.C.U it doesn't know about any minor problems (i.e the MAFF gone) and so will show this via your idle up and down.
Replaced my MAFF sensor and job done no probs now.
James.
10 January 2004, 09:07 PM
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cheers james thats a big help. now youve said that i noticed the car has been hunting a little bit when its warm with my normal ecu.
these are a main dealer thing i take it(and probably £150 lol)
do i need this boost pipe restrictor then do ya think
these are a main dealer thing i take it(and probably £150 lol)
do i need this boost pipe restrictor then do ya think
Trending Topics
10 January 2004, 11:04 PM
#9
before i purchased my PPP ecu i searched this site for info - the my99/00 cars don't need a restrictor (from a 'john banks' post) My car was totally standard - ecu was a straight swop and worked 'from box'. This might confirm what 'scoobyfella' is saying?
alan
p.s. my car is MY00
[Edited by albob - 1/10/2004 11:05:17 PM]
alan
p.s. my car is MY00
[Edited by albob - 1/10/2004 11:05:17 PM]
11 January 2004, 12:21 PM
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Hmmm, the only strange thing about all this is that if the MAF sensor really was knackered, odds are that when you put your old ECU back in, the idle should really have gone out of whack on that as well, due to the disconnection resetting it. How long was the old ECU out of the car while you were trying the other one?
Also, did you put the PPP ECU into test mode and find out what the check engine fault number was? That might be a worthwhile diagnostic step in the circumstances.
Without any further information, the MAF sensor does sound like the likeliest culprit, but unfortunately the only way to find out is to buy a new one.
They can sometimes be cleaned if it's oil contamination that's "broken" them, but it's not just contamination that kills them. Cone filters can introduce vibration and turbulence round the induction system that can either make them misread, or permanently damage them.
Buying a new sensor and running the standard filter box and induction is the only way to be sure that it's reading correctly. For £70 or so it's not worth risking your engine by running with a known potentially dodgy one.
TBH the best/safest all-round option for air entry on an MY99 or 00 car is the standard induction tract with a good panel filter like the K&N, STi or Green products.
[Edited by greasemonkey - 1/11/2004 12:25:47 PM]
Also, did you put the PPP ECU into test mode and find out what the check engine fault number was? That might be a worthwhile diagnostic step in the circumstances.
Without any further information, the MAF sensor does sound like the likeliest culprit, but unfortunately the only way to find out is to buy a new one.
They can sometimes be cleaned if it's oil contamination that's "broken" them, but it's not just contamination that kills them. Cone filters can introduce vibration and turbulence round the induction system that can either make them misread, or permanently damage them.
Buying a new sensor and running the standard filter box and induction is the only way to be sure that it's reading correctly. For £70 or so it's not worth risking your engine by running with a known potentially dodgy one.
TBH the best/safest all-round option for air entry on an MY99 or 00 car is the standard induction tract with a good panel filter like the K&N, STi or Green products.
[Edited by greasemonkey - 1/11/2004 12:25:47 PM]
11 January 2004, 03:45 PM
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The old ecu was off the car about 10 mins while i had a quick blast round the block to make sure the PPP one was ok.
ive put the standard airbox back on this morning with the K&N filter and its still hunting with the standard ecu at idle(when warm) but havent tried it with the PPP one on again as im selling the car so the bits are coming off anyway.im gonna try a new MAF sensor this week 1st.
the cone filter is a pipercross which is dry not oiled.
i didnt test the PPP ecu as i didnt realise ya could
lol
ive put the standard airbox back on this morning with the K&N filter and its still hunting with the standard ecu at idle(when warm) but havent tried it with the PPP one on again as im selling the car so the bits are coming off anyway.im gonna try a new MAF sensor this week 1st.
the cone filter is a pipercross which is dry not oiled.
i didnt test the PPP ecu as i didnt realise ya could
lol
11 January 2004, 03:51 PM
#16
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You're not really "testing" the ECU.
Basically you can connect some connectors under the dash to either reset the ECU or read any error codes. You can do this with the std AE80x ECU's too.
If the PPP ECU was unplugged for some time it would have reset itself anyway and reset any codes. Plugging it into your car, running it and then re-checking the codes may have showed something e.g. MAF failure, O2 failure - both of which can cause dodgy idle.
I bought a PPP ECU from John Banks. It ran fine in the car, but a few days later my idle went to pot. John help check the new ECU and my original with his DeltaDash software. Turned out my O2 sensor had failed. Pure coincidence and nothing to do with the work we both did. O2 sensor was replaced under warranty on mine, so I was lucky.
It maybe worth asking your local Dealer to put the select monitor on the car and see if any of the sensors are misbehaving. Might save you some money in the long run.
Stefan
Basically you can connect some connectors under the dash to either reset the ECU or read any error codes. You can do this with the std AE80x ECU's too.
If the PPP ECU was unplugged for some time it would have reset itself anyway and reset any codes. Plugging it into your car, running it and then re-checking the codes may have showed something e.g. MAF failure, O2 failure - both of which can cause dodgy idle.
I bought a PPP ECU from John Banks. It ran fine in the car, but a few days later my idle went to pot. John help check the new ECU and my original with his DeltaDash software. Turned out my O2 sensor had failed. Pure coincidence and nothing to do with the work we both did. O2 sensor was replaced under warranty on mine, so I was lucky.
It maybe worth asking your local Dealer to put the select monitor on the car and see if any of the sensors are misbehaving. Might save you some money in the long run.
Stefan
11 January 2004, 04:45 PM
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Thx Stefan
do ya think it could be a problem with the PPP ecu or will it definately be the car.(it went like hot snot apart from the idle)
Andy
do ya think it could be a problem with the PPP ecu or will it definately be the car.(it went like hot snot apart from the idle)
Andy
11 January 2004, 04:54 PM
#19
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It's not impossible that the ECU is faulty, but the chances are very slim. I've only heard of 2 ECU faults in 5 years on Scoobynet.
If you refit the original ECU it should clear any faults (if it is the ECU). If you still get dodgy idle with the original, then it's bound to be a sensor. Most common causes are MAF and O2 sensor.
Personally I would refit the original and get the car on a Select Monitor or DeltaDash (if you know someone local). Any Dealer should stick the Select Monitor on the car if you suspect any faulty sensors. It only takes a few minutes and a good Dealer shouldn't charge you for the diagnosis. It's not always clear-cut, but gives a much clearer idea without spending £70 on a gut-feeling.
Stefan
If you refit the original ECU it should clear any faults (if it is the ECU). If you still get dodgy idle with the original, then it's bound to be a sensor. Most common causes are MAF and O2 sensor.
Personally I would refit the original and get the car on a Select Monitor or DeltaDash (if you know someone local). Any Dealer should stick the Select Monitor on the car if you suspect any faulty sensors. It only takes a few minutes and a good Dealer shouldn't charge you for the diagnosis. It's not always clear-cut, but gives a much clearer idea without spending £70 on a gut-feeling.
Stefan
11 January 2004, 06:03 PM
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nice one thx again Stefan.
i,m gonna be selling the ecu along with th Y shaped prodrive intercooler pipe
so as long as the idle is car related ill be happy to let somebody buy them.
thx Andy
i,m gonna be selling the ecu along with th Y shaped prodrive intercooler pipe
so as long as the idle is car related ill be happy to let somebody buy them. thx Andy
13 January 2004, 03:21 PM
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right guys, ive put on me new MAF sensor and cured the hunting straight away
with my standard ecu in. tried the prodrive one in again check engine light stayed on and car wont idle just stalls. take it up the road and it goes like s#&t of the very shiny shovel.
now this ecu is out of an RB5 could this be the problem or would it make no difference(as RB5 are MY99 arent they or are they god knows ) but anyway all comments gratefully received
THX
Andy
with my standard ecu in. tried the prodrive one in again check engine light stayed on and car wont idle just stalls. take it up the road and it goes like s#&t of the very shiny shovel.now this ecu is out of an RB5 could this be the problem or would it make no difference(as RB5 are MY99 arent they or are they god knows ) but anyway all comments gratefully received
THX
Andy
14 January 2004, 07:31 AM
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Could it be that someone's been inside the ecu and stuffed it? Try opening it up and post a picture.
Other option is that it's been reprogrammed via EcuTek for a car with much larger injectors
Richard
Other option is that it's been reprogrammed via EcuTek for a car with much larger injectors
Richard
14 January 2004, 07:58 PM
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thx Richard .just tried some photos but i cant get the damn pictures clear enough. ive booked the car in at my local dealers friday to see if they can make anything out of it on their machine so ill post the results fri night.
Andy
Andy
17 January 2004, 07:27 AM
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called at the main dealers and he said that it looks like its a prodrive upgrade for an sti not a uk 2000 hence the pink sti sticker on the top. he said a uk 2000 turbo ppp would generally have a green sticker from the facrtory and a prodrive sticker underneath it.
As sti's have more bhp from standard this explains the overfuelling and stalling. As this ecu is out of anRB5 can any rb5 owners please verify that their ecu's have an sti sticker on them aswell to make sure this isnt an sti ecu thats been remapped for an rb5(if thats possible lol) im gonna try prodrive with the ecu numbers see if they can tell me anything about it.
all views appreciated
Andy
As sti's have more bhp from standard this explains the overfuelling and stalling. As this ecu is out of anRB5 can any rb5 owners please verify that their ecu's have an sti sticker on them aswell to make sure this isnt an sti ecu thats been remapped for an rb5(if thats possible lol) im gonna try prodrive with the ecu numbers see if they can tell me anything about it.
all views appreciated
Andy
17 January 2004, 09:05 AM
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My Pro-drive ECU off my RB5 WRSport has a pink STi sticker, as you describe. Pro-drive didn't do a ECU for an STi apart from P1 ECU. I thought the imports and UK cars had different connectors on the ECU ?
Phill
Phill
17 January 2004, 09:18 AM
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Babber i know i have one lol.(green jobby)
Do all rb5,s come with the prodrive upgrade as standard or is this a worthwhile purchase for an owner who's struggling to keep up with the rest.
does yours look like the one in my picture.
thx
andy
Do all rb5,s come with the prodrive upgrade as standard or is this a worthwhile purchase for an owner who's struggling to keep up with the rest.
does yours look like the one in my picture.
thx
andy
17 January 2004, 09:39 AM
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No the Pro-drive ECU and pipes are part of the Pro-drive ECU upgrade that was standard on the WR Sport, but an optional extra on the standard RB5.
The picture you posted is a little out of focus, so it's difficult to compare. Mine doesn't have the Pro-drive sticker on. My mate Mouses doesn't either.
A normal RB5 should have a brown labelled AE801 or a black labelled AE800 ECU, and not a green one.
Hope this helps, Phill
The picture you posted is a little out of focus, so it's difficult to compare. Mine doesn't have the Pro-drive sticker on. My mate Mouses doesn't either.
A normal RB5 should have a brown labelled AE801 or a black labelled AE800 ECU, and not a green one.
Hope this helps, Phill