I test oil seals everyday for various applications from machines, to vacuum pumps for cars.

To be honest, there isn't a great deal of difference in the lubricity of 90% of the engine oils out there. Provided you use a respectable brand you're safe, not that 5quid a gallon stuff that you wouldn't even use to loosen up a door hinge!!!

Synthetics are obviously the best as they can withstand the highest running temperatures. If you go above 150 degrees C they will start to break down. The likelihood of this if the car is used for a-to-b driving is pretty low. However if you use your car for its intended purpose, you should not only be using high grade fully synthetics, but approximately halfing the oil change interval. I change oil and filter every 3000miles, and only fill to within 2mm of the full mark.

As for negative effects on the engine. I changed one of my previous cars to fully synthetic after 2000 miles, my friend had the same car and didn't. He drove like a granny and could only manage 25-30mpg, I drove like Nigle Mansell and always saw 30-40mpg......we both owned the cars upto 26000 miles from new, mine sounded great, his was knackered!!! Admitedly he didn't change the oil quite so often

[Edited by silversuba - 11/10/2003 4:05:38 PM]

 

I have just checked the oil level on my STI7 and it is right down to the minimum. What oil is used by the dealer as I presume it would be best to top up with the same make.

any advice appreciated

 

Depends on the dealer, they put in anything from cheap bulk buy semi-synthetic 5W30 rubbish to half decent fully synthetic oil. Best to talk to them and then do a search for "which oil" and read what is best for your Scooby...

 

Start again if you don't know whats in it now. I recommend a 10w50 silkoline or castrol rs 10w60.

 

I agree do a full oil change then you know what you got

 

Thanks for the replies, I think i will do an oil change this weekend.

 

Motul is very good too, think scoobymania use it.

MB

 

just checked my sti8 only done 5000 since 1000 check, i am sure it was a fortnight ago before ppp fitted, now it is just showing on the dip stick, i would have thought the garage would of checked it, just a bit concerned how much has been used.

 

my dealer uses castrol magnatec 5w 30

 

Small point for those recommending full synths above. You're right in principle, but on a new-ish car, it's always better to find out what the mileage is, as if there's less than 7.5K on the clock, a good semi-synth is preferable to aid running-in.

BTW, Magnatec isn't very good, avoid. Mobil Super S 10/40, Motul 200V 10/40 and Shell Helix Plus 10/40 are all very good choices for an engine with low miles on it.

 

GM,

Surely once the 1000 mile bedding in oil is to be changed, people will start opening the car up more and more. Therefore a fully synth is better. The engine will have bedded in nicely after 1k miles, although granted it will continue to loosen up after that. And, agree it will bed in better.

On the other hand, I still maintain Magnatec is fine for Joe Public, potters around, no mods etc.

MB

 

The engine is far from properly bedded in at 1000 miles Mark. I've always favoured 10K miles for switching to full synth on Japanese engines, while folk like Bob Rawle suggest 7.5K. Either way, 1000 miles is way earlier than ideal.

Regarding the Magnatec, I've little personal knowledge of the stuff, but again I'm happy to quote Bob, who has expressed very good reasons not to use it.

 

GM, I agree the engine isn't fully loosened up until 8k plus, but I would have thought the majority of the initial "wear" would be done early on, especially with the aid of the "running in" oil for the 1st 1k miles.

MB

 

Silversuba - was the car you refer to getting 30 - 40mpg an Impreza Turbo? I can't seem to get more then 25mpg - i ran it in properly (haven't used any oil either) and am running on the mobil 5w/40w the dealer used after the fist service - now done 3k. If i give it more stick are you saying it should bed in more and run freer thereby giving better alround mpg??

 

no, it wasn't, I bought a new saxo vts after stuffing an r5gtt, so that i could get the free insurance.

I must admit, I'm lucky if I get 200-250miles out of a full tank of Optimax plus shed loads of octane boost.

I'm running a 94wrx with a zero/sports ecu, apexi system, zero/sports induction kit, and a Hks ssqv. The car had only done 45k when I picked it up, with full history from subaru japan.

But if you want the performance you pay the price.....

 

Hope you're using the right fuel with that ECU

MB

 

If he isn't, we'll probably hear the explosion darn sarf.

 

MB

 

I only run it on Optimax, (Always from the same garage) and lots of millers or STP octane boost.

Its setup at 1 bar right now, but will handle 1.2max. I'm happy with the car as it stands as the fastest things around here in a straight line are M3 evolutions, and they can't catch it.

Do u guys know somethin I don't about zero/sports??

 

I contacted millers a while ago, they said that if you dose Optimax inline with there instructions, this will produce fuel at 101RON. The same as the old 5 Star.

I'd like to get the car on the rollers to find out what power its got, and what the engines upto in general. Can anybody recommend someone in the northwest??

 

who do I speak to, to find out what fuel the car is setup for?

 

Heard a couple of people using them, installed on cars fresh from Japan.

I would find out what fuel it is rated for. Im not sure of how Jap tuners work, but if its rated for any higher RON than the standard 100 RON in Japan - you may not be in a good place.

http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/thread.asp?ThreadID=240270
Not sure if the chap who had the blow up was using one at the time
http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/thread.asp?ThreadID=266030
http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/thread.asp?ThreadID=218415

MB

[Edited by Dark Blue Mark - 11/12/2003 1:42:01 PM]