Beer Good

Dawes being fitted next week. Going for a very conservative setup as finances are tight. Most of the posts I've read (so many I'm going cross-eyed now) suggest getting AFR & Knocklink fitted. I can only afford one or the other.

I don't drive hard, just the odd blast. Which should I go for?

john banks

What model year?

It is virtually impossible to make a MY99/00 UK car lean with a Dawes on full throttle if the fuel system and sensors are working properly. On other models it is more likely.

A knocklink would generally be my choice, but you can do damage from overheating by going lean and not knocking, or the ECU retards the ignition in a lean situation, making things even hotter.

ozzy

I'd say get a Knocklink first.

You can get one for just under £120. See here for details.

Stefan

Beer Good

Sorry, MY99 with full Prodrive bar de-cat & K&N induction.

Thanks for your responses.

Ozzy, you are a god (small 'g', superstitious!), thanks.

John, read enough of your posts esp Dawes FAQ to know you are the dog's bits too. Thanks for replying.

[Edited by Beer Good - 8/20/2003 11:31:25 PM]

greasemonkey

There's being complimented, and there's being compared to a dog's bits.

John, are you furry and regularly licked?

john banks

Let's get back to knocklinks eh?

Beer Good

Please, yes, laughing so hard my dog is looking at me expectantly!!!

Erm, edited to say I haven't a clue why.

Erm, I don't have a dog.

Erm.....

[Edited by Beer Good - 8/20/2003 11:59:36 PM]

Beer Good

John

In all seriousness, do you think the Bosch sensor is worth the extra outlay, opinions seem to vary & one of your recent-ish posts suggested you went for just the K/L from Jap Innovations...........

Thanks
Steve.

john banks

yes get the Bosch sensor

SiHethers

BG

I'd be a little cautious, even with a KL. I've got a very similar setup to you and have just fitted an induction kit based around a K&N cone filter. This has lead to a significant misread in my MAF voltage which, due to the level of boost I'm running with my Dawes, is causing leaner running and way too much advance above 4000rpm. At 18psi the ECU was retarding 6.5 degrees above 4500rpm along with some extra activity on my KL despite using 1ml/litre NF octane booster.

I'm not certain 100% that I haven't rogered my MAF in changing the kit but I was careful. I'm going to refit airbox today and double check it is the flow characteristics of the filter causing the misread.

My point is you may unmask the problem when you put the Dawes on and up the boost, as if you have a PPP ECU the fuel cut is at about 19.5psi. I wasn't aware of the timing issue until I checked on Deltadash. I'm sure if I was using standard ecu boost control it would have dropped the boost to 7psi with that amount of knock.

I'm not far from you if you need access to deltadash when setting up.

Simon

SPARKY WRX

Hi SiHethers,

Can you let me know if the induction kit has damaged the MAF and caused it to miss read or if the MAF is missreading because of the different flow caracteristics.

I have a HKS induction kit and Have had rubish fuel consumption. I have a new Lambda and my throttle position is fine, Im trying to figure out if my MAF is busted or not. Im running too rich.

Cheers

Mark.

SiHethers

Mark

No problem. MAF's tend to under read when failing, hence the risk of running lean and detonation/engine failure. It would be unusual for a failing MAF to cause overfuelling. Have you tried regapping/checking/changing spark plugs?

Simon

SPARKY WRX

I have had bad fueling for the last year or so, have been using NGK 7's , I havent checked the gap as I thought they would be correct for my car. Im getting 1v arf reading on my dawes AFR whenever I touch the throttle. I first thought the throttle position sensor might be the problem. But since fitting my Apexi boost controller, the throttle sensor looks fine. I think im going open loop too soon. I have 1v afr at 8% throttle off boost.

Mark.

SiHethers

AFR should swing between 0.1-0.8V when in closed loop to maintain a stoich mixture. Does your AFR do this at idle. Sounds like there may be a prob with your lambda feed (not sensor as this has been replaced). Electrics isn't my strong point but JB may be able to shed more light.

I'm off to refit my airbox

Simon

SPARKY WRX

at cruise and idle the lambda readings are ok but as soon as i touch the throttle any more it runs rich - 1v, which is open loop when the lambda isnt being used.

From what I understand is that the Ecu uses the MAP and MAF at open throttle, maybe there is a problem with the MAP sensor.

Thanks

ozzy

What MY do you have? IIRC the MY99/00 UK cars don't have a MAP sensor, just a fixed MAP in the ECU. I could be wrong though.

Stefan

SPARKY WRX

94 wrx import

SPARKY WRX

94 wrx import

Beer Good

SiHethers,

Many thanks for the offer of help. Iain Banks is going to help fit Dawes next week, I don't anticipate getting anywhere near your level of boost. I am looking for 240 bhp/ lbft & that will keep me happy for a bit longer. I'm guessing that is about 13.5 to 14 psi so I will be a long way short of your 18 psi.

Did you fit your airbox back on, I am thinking induction isn't worth the bother, so if you have no more use for yours....?!

Leslie

When I fitted new NGK's the other day I found the gaps varied by as much as 4 thou.

Les

SiHethers

No prob BG.

To solve the detting issue at high boost with the GGR induction and 18psi boost I backed off the boost to 16psi and added fresh optimax + 2ml/litre NF.

Then I changed the airbox back. Low and behold MAF readings are back to normal, so it is partly a MAF misread issue (and at least I haven't damaged it). Deltalogs with 16 psi and standard induction returned transient lowlevel knock at 5-6000rpm settled with occasional 1 degree retard.

I've now refitted the induction kit (it is a very nice piece of kit afterall ). At 16 psi I'm seeing leaner mixtures again (0.87-0.88V - so still on the rich side) and a little more advance, but only 1.5 degrees of retard in the same area, and not always. This leaning only manifests above 4000rpm and increases as flows increase. Deltalogs show a definate gain in held boost over 5000rpm - now 14.5psi available at 6200rpm with 17psi midrange versus 14.5psi at 5600rpm/18psi midrange with standard induction. I think pushing the midrange may release a bit more at the top.

So, my induction kit does cause a MAF misread causing slight leaning of mixtures and extra advance, and this in addition to more boost higher up and possibly dodgy fuel led to my problem. Excessive heat soak may also have contributed.

For the moment I'm sticking with the induction kit and will run lower boost and take it easy when heat soaked. I've been advised water injection would work a treat for my situation, so that's on my wish list.

Beer Good, if you think you're going to be happy with 240lbft when a couple of turns on the Dawes and a dash of NF will see you closer to 300lbft, then you've got a lot more self control than I have

Simon

Edited to say - Why set boost at 14psi, PPP boost target is 16psi ish?

[Edited by SiHethers - 8/23/2003 5:18:57 PM]

Beer Good

Si

The reason I will settle for 240 lb/ft (for now) is that I understood the first 3 words & last paragraph of your post. I went a bit Homer Simpson in the middle.

Glad you sorted out your problem tho' !!