chrome

hi.
currently got a full decat, and an AE801.. but its still feels a little gutless.. running at 14-15 psi maybe its just me getting used to it?
handles quite well due to suspension pack from TSL but it needs more go imho.

what would you techincal bods advise to look at to help me gain some torque (and power) without escalating to P20spd style proportions of expenditure! ?
[flamesuit on]

LB4

Depending on MY ... Tek 3 .... makes a big difference to the torque ... especially compared with no remap and full decat.

chrome

sorry m8, MY00

Abbylad

iTrader: (4)

Chrome...........errrr..........ehhhhhhhhh????? why did you say "sorry mate, MY00?" the MY00 is one of the models that CAN be TEK 3`d

chrome

er- i meant- sorry- I mine is an MY00 I forgot to include that.. hehe

nom

Decat?
At least the DP anyway.

chrome

um Scoobysport Dp, TSL straight thru centre and prodrive BB.. so pretty much ful decat.
i thank you.

Brun

I agree, decat is the first and most important step on the ladder

nom

Oops, missed that bit
The short-but is the Dawes... certainly cheap-o, especially if you already have a boost gauge!

*Sonic*

and now mine is fully de-catted, Magnex Twin Dump, Magnex Centre (Resonated) & Magnex Oval BB

Sort of hi-jacking Chromes thread as im looking at the same sort of thing mine is a MY00 too

Steve

pat

Surely, the fact that it's an AE801 ECU would have been sufficient information to conclude that the car must be MY99-00 ?

Anyway, getting back on topic, you can increase the boost with a Dawes or similar type boost controller, but this doesn't allow you to get the same kind of torque improvement as a remap or a more advanced boost controller. With a flat controller like the Dawes, it will try to maintain a constant boost pressure across the rev range. You have two choices. Either run it safely so that the boost at the top of the rev range is sensible (and on a UK car 1 bar is about the limit of the turbo) or run it above this and let the turbo choke at the top, which is far from ideal.

If the car is remapped properly then it allows more boost in the midrange, which will result in a very useful increase in torque. With a full decat free flowing exhaust system it's possible to get up to 270 lb/ft without going mad, yet at the same time the ECU can bring the boost back down at the top where the turbo will be having a hard time and generating a lot of heat. On the MY99-00 the fuel injectors are OK for over 300 BHP, but the turbo will be running out of puff at 280 BHP, so wouldn't suggest trying to get any more than that on the stock turbo.

A similar improvement can be achieved with an advanced boost controller, but they cost a lot of money, and won't address the fact that the ECU won't be too happy about the boost (it will try to do a fuel cut) and it won't quite know what to do with the ignition timing (it'll be off the end of the stock map). If you add up all the bits you'de need to do it "properly" with bolt-on-goodies then you'll probably find that an ECUTEK-type remap will be more cost effective and provide better results.

You could also consider an ECU replacement, a PossumLink offers excellent value for money, but there are loads of others to choose from. I think that MoTeC does a drop-in replacement (Group A M48), Pectel / Prodrive do a drop-in replacement (Group N S2), AEM do a drop in replacement, Autronic do a drop in replacement, GEMS do a drop in replacement, and of course there are Pectel, MoTeC, EFI Technologies, Magneti Marelli, Bosch Motorsport etc ECUs that will work with a loom adapter. All of these will exceed the cost of a remap of the standard ECU by some considerable margin, but if you have plans for further increasing power, possibly building an engine, etc then the extra flexibility of a fully programmable ECU will be very useful.

Hope this helps,

Pat.

chrome

thanks Pat

(btw- I swapped the 802 for an 801 on the day I bought it after recommendations from friends and fellow scoobynetters..)