******Advice PLEASE....Blown Engine No2......NO THANKS*****
#5
I wish my last bill was in the £3k range.
stick with a k and n filter if you have to.
Uprated fuel pump doesn't do anything except make sure that the fuel that injectors receive is what the ecu is expecting. It doesnt increase the amount of fuel.
Change the oil every 3k miles and use a reputable make and original equipment filter. I use motul (or would had my car been turned ovr in the last 18 months).
Buy a roger clarke motorsport modified fuel pump, these are sold by various people.
the knock and lambda links dont make things worse, they just allow you to monitior what is happening. They are only ever going to be helpful. Some may say they make you paranoid, but it seems to me you already are to some degree so it wont hurt having peace of mind.
Boost gauges will let you know if it is running as normal in terms of performance, plus they allow you to spot leaks which can lead to over fuelling.
stick with a k and n filter if you have to.
Uprated fuel pump doesn't do anything except make sure that the fuel that injectors receive is what the ecu is expecting. It doesnt increase the amount of fuel.
Change the oil every 3k miles and use a reputable make and original equipment filter. I use motul (or would had my car been turned ovr in the last 18 months).
Buy a roger clarke motorsport modified fuel pump, these are sold by various people.
the knock and lambda links dont make things worse, they just allow you to monitior what is happening. They are only ever going to be helpful. Some may say they make you paranoid, but it seems to me you already are to some degree so it wont hurt having peace of mind.
Boost gauges will let you know if it is running as normal in terms of performance, plus they allow you to spot leaks which can lead to over fuelling.
#6
I think we are looking to prevent 2 problems here - knock and oil starvation.
The first can be caught if something goes wrong with an AFR (before it gets too hot due to lean mixture etc) and latterly with a knock link to pick up the symptoms (when it is actually knocking). So get a knock and AFR to be safe. A knock link will also catch overboost knock too so you could probably do without a boost gauge.
The second problem is bearing wipe IMHO. This can only be sorted by you changing the oil and making sure the filter is filled prior to fitting and cranking without ignition, to bring the oil pressure up before firing. This can't be guaranteed to be done at any garage, hence doing it yourself.
I reckon that this is the minimum that you can get away with as far as gauges and preventative measures. Oh, and don't do high speeds for any length of time +120mph-ish.
All MHO.
F
The first can be caught if something goes wrong with an AFR (before it gets too hot due to lean mixture etc) and latterly with a knock link to pick up the symptoms (when it is actually knocking). So get a knock and AFR to be safe. A knock link will also catch overboost knock too so you could probably do without a boost gauge.
The second problem is bearing wipe IMHO. This can only be sorted by you changing the oil and making sure the filter is filled prior to fitting and cranking without ignition, to bring the oil pressure up before firing. This can't be guaranteed to be done at any garage, hence doing it yourself.
I reckon that this is the minimum that you can get away with as far as gauges and preventative measures. Oh, and don't do high speeds for any length of time +120mph-ish.
All MHO.
F
#7
Scooby Regular
Thanks for the replies guys....
Complicated re why the engine blew but dealers report lists a shorted HT lead causing fuel to build up in cyclinder 2 then the HT lead managed a spark and er boom
Was speaking to a guy yesterday who had 3 STI V engines go boom after uprating fuel pump etc and it turned out to be an injector prob ......
So i guess it doesn't matter what you do ..... you can't cover everything
PS For those who think I'm being paranoid......
Well.....If you'd done the amount of drugs in your early years that I had then you'd be delighted to get away with this minor degree of Paranoia .. heh heh
Cheers again
Off now for my medication
<who said that.... >
Complicated re why the engine blew but dealers report lists a shorted HT lead causing fuel to build up in cyclinder 2 then the HT lead managed a spark and er boom
Was speaking to a guy yesterday who had 3 STI V engines go boom after uprating fuel pump etc and it turned out to be an injector prob ......
So i guess it doesn't matter what you do ..... you can't cover everything
PS For those who think I'm being paranoid......
Well.....If you'd done the amount of drugs in your early years that I had then you'd be delighted to get away with this minor degree of Paranoia .. heh heh
Cheers again
Off now for my medication
<who said that.... >
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#8
Scooby Regular
.... so
To avoid block no2 going pop I obviously want to take some precautions ... oooh err
BUT
The varying levels of advice...although hugely appreciated... is staggering
Car is a UK MY99 with Magnex twin DP and Swana BB, green filter (dry) with no other engine mods, always SUL or Optipish... so some say
Then JB generally says
Others say
But often contradicted by
Then
Point being I don't want to end up (maybe there already ) totally paranoid and with the dasboard looking like the SS Enterprise Bridge but also don't want to fall into the Gridlock Mikey school of Blissful Ignorance and "**** it, if it blows ..it blows"
I know the obvious advice is "to listen to the experts" but when the dealer says A, specialist X says B and specialist Y says C and I won't even tell you what specialist Z said
The advice from Grant at AWD is what I will follow and boost gauge and knocklink are the definites on the order book..thanks for your time yesterday Grant
Thanks in advance for any more confusing opinions
[Edited by SiPie - 6/11/2003 12:51:16 PM]
To avoid block no2 going pop I obviously want to take some precautions ... oooh err
BUT
The varying levels of advice...although hugely appreciated... is staggering
Car is a UK MY99 with Magnex twin DP and Swana BB, green filter (dry) with no other engine mods, always SUL or Optipish... so some say
leave it as it is and it should be fine
a knocklink is a must for even standard cars
an AFR meter is essential to check if your MAF is doing it's job
by the time the AFR meter tells you what's going on, it can be too late
boost gauge is a must
uprated fuel pump
I know the obvious advice is "to listen to the experts" but when the dealer says A, specialist X says B and specialist Y says C and I won't even tell you what specialist Z said
The advice from Grant at AWD is what I will follow and boost gauge and knocklink are the definites on the order book..thanks for your time yesterday Grant
Thanks in advance for any more confusing opinions
[Edited by SiPie - 6/11/2003 12:51:16 PM]
#9
Scooby Regular
If you're THAT paranoid, put it back to standard
PS If your last bill was £3,567.85 you'd be paranoid too
Cheers for the advice ...appreciated
[Edited by SiPie - 6/11/2003 1:19:15 PM]
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