Got a knocklink fitted now, and last night when blasting along a back road the dreaded red light flashed on!!
(3rd gear as I hit 5000rpm) was running at 15psi..

felt well gutted.. and backed off pronto..

is there anything I can do to reduce my chances of Det?
I use Super or Optimax only.

Can anything be done to minimise the chances of summat nasty occuring?

MY00
Full decat
K&N57i
AE801

Help!

 

If repeated (may have just been the ECU learning) then check the car on diagnostics - to check the function of the MAF, fuelling, knock sensor. If they are OK run higher octane, consider removing the K&N or AE801, consider better intercooling, water injection, remap. However, knocklinks do not usually light up on Optimax off the track at under 17 PSI on an AE801.

Also consider if it was noise, but on the other hand 5000 RPM in 3rd coming onto peak boost after a gearchange is where you would expect it to happen.

A single red flash is not going to blow up your engine. You have the opportunity to work out what provokes it/sorts it.

 

also try using an octane booster if you are only using super or optimax.

 

stop using supermarket fuel Chrome :P

I would try that first mate tho, put in Opti from a reputable garage, and try some Octane Booster

I am by no means an expert, and am still learning, but that is the first thing I would try

My knocklink (fitted only a few days ago, but now several hundred miles later) lit up once, and only upto the first yellow light, but this was at 6.5k rpm going from 3rd to 4th , and it lit up as I changed gear, hasnt done it since

Steve

 

got a full tank o super to use up.. sure I can find a way :P

Im hoping that it is the naff supermarket SUL that has caused this.
hasnt happened (RED)today mind you altho it did go up to 2nd light.

yeah- OB will be my next port of call..
Millers ok?

I saw today in a car acces' shop a product called "10KBoost" and "Rocketboost", despite the MAXPOOWER marketing; has anyone used these are they a bad idea?

wondered if it was worth getting TSL to do their "flush" thing on the engine- they recommend if for cars over 3yrs old.
anyone had it done?

thanks for the help John, would it do any good to get on a select monitor? or SECS?
No TSL will try to sell me one :P LOL

 

Yes Select Monitor or SECS will be helpful here. Forget the injector flush or 10K boost and go for NF and Optimax IMHO.

 

nf black bottle (race formula) everytime

cheers

big sinky

 

dumb question; where can I get some NF (Race) from?

 

I certainly would not use Supermarket petrol-it is known for being short of additives etc to keep the price down. I bet if you stuck with proper Optimax or Esso SUL you would be alright. With some NF as well you would not need to worry again.

Les

 

FAO John Banks or others techis out there.

My knocklink has been flashing red from time to time but really only in fourth under full throttle. Only had the car back from getting things done to it.

The nature of the work means that the battery will have been disconnected and hence i'm assuming that the ECU will have reset and gone back to its original Jap settings (93wrx).

Anyway, the question is is how long will the ECU take to "learn"? so that this detting stops?

 

Ive also noticed that my boost is all over the place.. between 10-15psi.

going to TSL on the 19th for some investigation.

 

sparkster,

I suggest you drop andyf a mail and ask his opinion as he has done more testing with the standard ecu than anyone.he is local to you too.

I took this from one of your other posts "induction kit, up-pipe, down-pipe, uprated fuel pump, regulator and Knocklink", are these all your mods?

a few questions that may help you get an answer,what fuel pressure are you running,also I am sure you had problems before with an earlier engine, did you get the engine rebuilt or replaced, were the injectors and maf checked. what fuel do you use and do you use octane booster?

my guess is that it will be having both the down pipe and induction kit with possibly a bit too much boost. in your favour the up-pipe will probably slow the "spool up" down a bit so I would try dropping the boost.

 

get that induction kit off leans it right off if you have not had it mapped .

 

Sparkster, the early ECU knock back the timing quickly and irreversibly. It could be a MAF misread or just excessive boost for the fuel and timing your ECU is running. To see if red lights are knock related you can do a few things like increase octane, perhaps more importantly reduce boost... if they make it go away or reduce the frequency or severity of it then it is more likely knock. Treat it as knock until proven otherwise rather than the other way around.

 

wrxbob- noted.
going for some in depth investigation at TSL on the 19th...

 

I have a John Banks Tek 2.5 and only recently fitted my knocklink. To be fair I haven't seen it light past the normal green (first LED) even on WOT 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear bouncing off the rev limiter Normally the first led is lit faintly.

Mods I have (that are relevant are :-

Tek 2.5
K and N 57i
Forge VTA
Water spray
Full Scoobysports decat
AFM (to confirm fuelling is ok)

I always use optimax, and can't say I've had a problem in the last year since the Tek 2.5 was fitted

Thanks Phill

[Edited by babber - 5/9/2003 10:28:50 AM]