What does a power boost valve do?
#2
I'm no expert but I think it raises the fuel pressure, squirting a bit more in, therefore you could raise the boost a little more without an upgrade ecu / re-map before running lean with standard injectors.
But double check with someone that has more post than me (for obvious reasons) first, as I think this route of modification is NOT recommended !
The company that makes them claims it clears dead spots and improves acceleration, but I know there are far better ways of doing this.
Do a search on this forum for 'Dawes devices' that's a good place to start )
But double check with someone that has more post than me (for obvious reasons) first, as I think this route of modification is NOT recommended !
The company that makes them claims it clears dead spots and improves acceleration, but I know there are far better ways of doing this.
Do a search on this forum for 'Dawes devices' that's a good place to start )
#3
A boost valve is a fuel pressure regulator. It makes sure a constant pressure of fuel is fed into the system and all excess is fed back to the tank.
Pressure should be set to 3.2bar at idle, so when running 1.0 bar of boost the fuel pressure will be 4.3bar.
When you have uprated the fuel pump and are running high boost then it is worth considering. The cost is about £60 i think with the small pressure gauge to go with it being about £20.
Beware - Fitting is a bitch, not that hard just tricky.
Contact Mark at Lateral Performance for more info.
Pressure should be set to 3.2bar at idle, so when running 1.0 bar of boost the fuel pressure will be 4.3bar.
When you have uprated the fuel pump and are running high boost then it is worth considering. The cost is about £60 i think with the small pressure gauge to go with it being about £20.
Beware - Fitting is a bitch, not that hard just tricky.
Contact Mark at Lateral Performance for more info.
#4
Thanks guys. Just about to fork out £3K to replace an engine after a Big End prob and had to replace the discs and pads plus the clutch. Nothing like having to replace everything but the outer shell!!!!! So basically, i have the same car i had two weeks ago with slightly better braking and am 3k out of pocket. I just want a really really cheap mod to make me feel better about being so skint.
Was looking at a Dawes manual boost control. Sounds like the business but wouldn't know where to start looking for one of these. Any ideas?
#7
You get a lot for your money with Dawes Device IMHO. Need a boost gauge to set it up, plus some other form of monitoring re AFR/knock recomended, but if you're not raising the fuel cut you probably won't run into probs on an otherwise standard car, depending on MY/import etc.
Delta dash road dyno showed 15bhp/25lbft more at the wheels with Dawes on my MY99
Dyno Test: 3rd (with Dawes)
==============
Maximum Wheel Power: 202.9 BHP @ 6291 RPM
Maximum Wheel Torque: 214.9 LbFt @ 4772 RPM
Power to weight ratio: 162.3 BHP per ton
Terminal velocity due to power: 163.9 mph
In Gear Acceleration:
30 - 50mph = 3.2 seconds
40 - 60mph = 2.6 seconds
50 - 70mph = 2.7 seconds
60 - 80mph = 2.9 seconds
70 - 90mph = 3.4 seconds
Dyno Test: 3rd (without Dawes)
===============
Maximum Wheel Power: 186.9 BHP @ 5829 RPM
Maximum Wheel Torque: 181.5 LbFt @ 4338 RPM
Power to weight ratio: 134.5 BHP per ton
Terminal velocity due to power: 159.4 mph
In Gear Acceleration:
30 - 50mph = 3.7 seconds
40 - 60mph = 3.2 seconds
50 - 70mph = 3.2 seconds
60 - 80mph = 3.3 seconds
Tested same day and road, sorry don't know how to get the graphs up.
Hope this helps
Simon
PS- Extra 50kg on board when testing without Dawes so difference in in-gear times are exaggerated slightly
[Edited by SiHethers - 19/03/2003 16:01:57]
[Edited by SiHethers - 19/03/2003 16:02:49]
Delta dash road dyno showed 15bhp/25lbft more at the wheels with Dawes on my MY99
Dyno Test: 3rd (with Dawes)
==============
Maximum Wheel Power: 202.9 BHP @ 6291 RPM
Maximum Wheel Torque: 214.9 LbFt @ 4772 RPM
Power to weight ratio: 162.3 BHP per ton
Terminal velocity due to power: 163.9 mph
In Gear Acceleration:
30 - 50mph = 3.2 seconds
40 - 60mph = 2.6 seconds
50 - 70mph = 2.7 seconds
60 - 80mph = 2.9 seconds
70 - 90mph = 3.4 seconds
Dyno Test: 3rd (without Dawes)
===============
Maximum Wheel Power: 186.9 BHP @ 5829 RPM
Maximum Wheel Torque: 181.5 LbFt @ 4338 RPM
Power to weight ratio: 134.5 BHP per ton
Terminal velocity due to power: 159.4 mph
In Gear Acceleration:
30 - 50mph = 3.7 seconds
40 - 60mph = 3.2 seconds
50 - 70mph = 3.2 seconds
60 - 80mph = 3.3 seconds
Tested same day and road, sorry don't know how to get the graphs up.
Hope this helps
Simon
PS- Extra 50kg on board when testing without Dawes so difference in in-gear times are exaggerated slightly
[Edited by SiHethers - 19/03/2003 16:01:57]
[Edited by SiHethers - 19/03/2003 16:02:49]
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#8
Just got car back from getting sorted out and was asking one of the guys at the garage about this Dawes manual boost control and he ways saying to be wary of this.
Think he was saying, if you want to blow your engine up again then fit this. He was saying if it was a uk car i should go ahead and fit it but because mine is a jap import he kinda hesitated. But i think if i was going to fit it, i would be shelling out a lot on gismos to tell me what i'm doing to my engine as you suggested.
Thanks for the advice. Lots to think about
#10
Thanks John. Have had a look but cant find that faq you wrote but would be interested to know more. Do you work for ECU Scotland? Is it a company? Do you have a website? Sorry for the bundle of Q's!!
I'll be gutted if i'm advised not to chip my car or do anything with the boost. Its just not quick enough and i hate thrashing the car to get results! Suppose its human nature to always want more eh!!??
#13
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