Bee

Bit of a wierd one this. Had my MY99 turbo for about a year now and this prob has only popped it's ugly head a couple of times, tonight being the second

Drove for about 45mins nothin spectacular, parked my car got out etc... came back to the car after maybe a couple of hours & went to start it, what happens is the engine just turns over and refuses to start, I left it for a bit and tried again, same again, wouldn't start.

After the longest 2mins of my life I finally managed to get it to start, drove home with no problem??

As I said this has happened before but ages ago.

Anyone else experienced this too?? Any info would be much appreciated.

Cheers - Bee

NINJA

u need to check a few things
what immobiliser is fitted as they can go faulty
temp sensor if faulty will cause this
check for the noise of the fuel pump priming when u turn key to live but dont crank the car

guppy

try doing a search lots of threads about this. I sometimes have this problem but only if for some reason the car is turned over but not started, when i try again it takes a while to start.

Geoff Drucquer

Had the same problem with my 95 Turbo. Always starts from cold, but sometimes will nor start after a short journey. After turning over on the starter for a bit I hear a gurgling noise from the back, a then she starts? weird or what? Another trick I've tried is to open the petrol cap to release pressure, again the car starts. Any one with any bright ideas? my local dealer can't find anything wrong.

pmortlock

mine wont start right now, it does this every now and again and is driving me mad. i had a new cat1 alarm fitted to try and sort it out, but its still happening. Is it to do with this temp sensor? How do you check if it works? Please help this is a serious problem.

pmortlock

!

cosmic

yip mine does the same doesnt matter if its hot or cold just turns over and over then it eventually goes doesnt do it very often 2 or 3 times a year never really tried to get to the problem my 98

Blobster

Had exactly the same on mine, MY99.
Does check engine light flash?
After two months of suffering the russian roulette of starting a local dealer traced the fault to the ignition key would you believe. Have used the spare set ever since with no problems.

submannz

My Uncle has a 94 Legacy N/A.

If the car is started and driven a small distance down the road then switched off, the car will not start again, if they wait about 5 minutes then the car will start again. But the strange thing is that it doesn't do this all the time (maybe because they travelled a bit further).

Subaru have been looking at the problem and are yet to resolve it after about 3 months.

I have reset the computer soft and hard, it was hard to know if the hard reset fixed it because the battery was getting flat. But once I connected the jumper cables and it started immediately.

Apparently Subaru claim no error codes in the ECU, but my Uncle advised me that he had seen the check engine light a couple of times, go figure??

I believe the problem is with the ECU or maybe a part tied into the cold start system

submannz

I have had about 8 responses to my problem on other forums and they have all said it is related to the crank and or cam angle sensors, but mainly the crank angle sensor.

shiper

Had exactly the same problem.
Got second hand sensors for the cam and crank from grade a subaru for £40 each plus post and never had the problem again in 6 months.
(The problem graduly got worse as time went on.)

malanthomas

I have just, (Friday) fixed a very similar problem with a Catalunya, thanks to another owner on Scoobynet, who had a similar problem. When the car will not start, dis-connect the MAF sensor, the engine should start, but will be "lumpy". Once running, reconnect the MAF sensor, car will probably be OK. If you can start the car like this, clean the sensor with an organic solvent, say White Spirit, if it is badly contaminated, replace it.

If disconneting the MAF sensor dosn't help, try the Water Temp Sensor, under the alternator, still no joy, Cam and then Crank Sensors.

I suspect your fuel mixture is wrong, this is why I would look at the MAF unit, (no cost to try), then the Temp sensor - Cheap and easy!

Switch your security to "Vallet" mode to chek the MAF Unit. Good Luck. Mark.

siwrx

having same problem with mine its just refusing to start, checked ecu error codes and nothing comes up. Could one of the sensors be ****ed and the ecu not pick it up?

What sensors could cause this, obviously crank as that controls spark. But what other ones

siwrx

bttt

pmortlock

i need some help in disconnecting the maf sensor, where is the connector?

malanthomas

The MAF Sensor is between the Air Filter and the Throttle Valve. It's directly next to the Filter Box, it is held into a platic housing by 4 small Philips Screws, and has 3 wires going to the Connector. If u still can't find it, contact me at markalan.thomas@lycos.co.uk, and I will e-mail u a photo.

pmortlock

its the plug going onto the airbox then? i disconnected this, it still did not start. i also disconnected the connector under the alternator, the temp sensor? It still doesnt start.

When I turn on the ignition, the check engine light is on. It goes out when i try and start but occasionally flashes while its trying to start, it doesnt fire up. I topped up my petrol as this was very very low, thought it may have run out of petrol. I can smell petrol when its trying to start so hopefully its not just no fuel!

Is this check engine light being on indicate a problem?

Just got back from holiday and this is a nightmare as it wont go at all. What to do! Please help ...

submannz

siwrx, Yes the crank angle sensor does exactly that, no error codes. The brown crank angle sensors are the ones that cause this problem. The others in the old models have long cables on the end and the newer is black and a plug from the harness goes in to the sensor.

[Edited by submannz - 3/25/2003 9:10:44 PM]

siwrx

yeah im gonna change the sensor and a temp sensor just to make sure it aint them

malanthomas

Siwrx, a Technician at my main dealer told me last week, that he never sees the code for a MAF fault in the log, 'cos the fault log never stores it! Curious, but sounds like your problem! Clean it first if it's not under warranty, saves cash. Have you got a standard filter, as oiled induction units can cause problems.

pmortlock

siwrx that seems to me the best thing to do.
Car Mechanics magazine has a good article on diagnosing impreza faults. They also say the crank angle sensor is the cause of these problems relating to non-starting.

I hope so my cars stuck in my garden!

are they going to be easy to fit? where to get them?

[Edited by pmortlock - 3/26/2003 7:26:41 PM]

malanthomas

Pmotlock, what edition of Car Mechanics is it, I'd like to read it?
Good luck with yours!

siwrx

crank sensors a piece of ****, its 2 bolts and is underneath the alternator.

worth trying as theyre only 25 quid from breakers.

pmortlock

April 2003 page 64, got mine in whsmiths.

siwrx i got same price from gradeasubaru. I'll order mine tomorrow. Thanks for that mate. Hope this works!

malanthomas

Cheers pmortlock!

chiark

I think it's all been said before, but two things:

temp sensor: this controls the cold start enrichment stuff, so when it's knackered your car won't start...

Crank Position sensor: gives the signal from which firing is worked out (I think)...

The CPS failed on an old R19 16v that I had. Renault had it for 2 weeks before declaring that there's nothing wrong with the car. Oh, and charging me a small fortune for that diagnosis and a new battery. *sigh*

Car failed to start the very next day in Coniston in the middle of a campsite. Bloody thing