Big AlT

Need to fit a set of plugs to my 93WRX, I've heard that it is quite difficult. Can anybody supply a few tips or advice as to how to fit them. Anything would be appreciated....

manny

Dead easy mate...Take out washer bottle (2 10mm screws) that gives access to the two near side plugs (use a 5/8" socket with about a 4" extension). The other side i had to remove the airbox, again no hassle remove 2 12mm bolts that go down into the inner wing and remove the hose clip and the MAF sensor plug and it should work free, this leaves enough access to get at the two remaining plugs. Took me about 30 mins all in. Oh! and don't overtighten the plugs!!!! tighten upo hand tight then about anothe 1/4 turn shoul do ya! (set gaps to about .7mm)

Big AlT

Thanks mate, appreciated, at least I've got a head start now.

Stuart Knight

iTrader: (2)

The key is the length of your socket extension. Quite an easy job if you have the right length, right pain in the **** if you don't.

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Do it with the engine cold like first thing in the morning.

harvey

iTrader: (48)

.

[Edited by harvey - 11/11/2002 4:36:56 PM]

Big AlT

thanks guys....

Stephen Cole

Also if your plug socket has a tight rubber insert, either 'loosen it' or work out a way to jam the socket on the extension, else when you refit the plugs the socket may stay stuck on the plug and in the plug hole when you try to remove the tool ...!
A heart stopping moment I can tell you
If that happens, try to reengage the extension into the socket and undo and remove the plugs again.

FiveO

You may be better removing the battery rather than the washer bottle. Its easier and the washer bottle does not really get in the way. The rear plug on that side was the most difficult when I did mine due to the lack of space between the rocker cover and the inner wing.
As above the right length of extension is critical, as in so many areas of life.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

For Passenger Side, jack the car up and work from underneath (A 93 won't have a splashguard to remove unlike a 97 onwards).
For Drivers side, front plug is no problem, but rear plug will require intake expansion box and pipes to be removed.

40mins a few scratched knuckles and the jobs done.

Big AlT

Oh no!!! I attempted to remove plugs after buying a set of NGK7b's, didn't have the correct length of socket, so will have to buy one. Anyway after reading on in this thread about coil packs, I noticed there was several cracks in the plastic around the connection under the rubber adaptor/sleeve, not broken off like the picture above but just cracked and still in place. Is this likely to give me a hesitation or is it only if they are demolished....(the rubber bits are fine). If so does anyone know of any for sale?????
thanks for the advice,
Alan.

Jaay

Unfortunately its a bit of a Palava to go through to get these coils but definately worth it.
First of all, what to do is drive your car as normal then accelerate hardish upto about 5.5K Revs, if the car doesnt splutter and almost send you into the windscreen (not an exaduration) then keep using these coils until it does.
My Advice is if they have cracked already then this is inevitable and looming over you in fact I would start organising you new ones now so that you dont have the car off the road when it does come down to it.
To explain whats happening its quite simple, the current sent down the coil and onto the plug head is managing to escape through the cracks/fractures, and causeing arcing.
Replacement coils can be bought from Subaru but if you like owning all the possesions you have then dont buy them from Subaru because youll end up mortgaging the lot to finance this. Buy the replacement coils from Australia. Yup thats right Australia,
They will cost around £14-17 each and postage is about £30.
Let me know if you want the e-mail address for the company.
Im not saying you have to go and so this right away but with Fractures, its only a matter of time. Test the car upto 5.5K revs and let us know how you get on.

J

Big AlT

It's only really under full boost at high revs that my slight hesitation occurs. Initially thought it was fuel cut however after the remap the level was set to about 18 psi, so can't be that. Obviously after that it's a process of elimination, plugs first...
What I want to know is that if these plastic surrounds are cracked can they be repaired(insulating tape) to stop the spark arcing??
Surely if they are not completely destroyed they can be salvaged to stop a spark getting through?? I think it's likely that the plugs are causing the hestitation, however I won't find out until I fit them, or try to!!!

subaruimprezzawrx

jus a quick question, how do u set the gap to 0.7mm?

Jaay

Yeah you could try taping them up, I havent tried it myself but might be worth a bash. For Plug gaps goto your nearest Autosave/Halfords and get the gapping tool. It has many sizes and should be cheap as chips.

tweenierob

Feeler gauges are used for checking spark plug gaps, bout £3 for a set..
Rob

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

They wont repair with insulating tape. There is approx 40,000 volts trying to escape there. Inulating tape at best may be rated at 400v, despite how many times you wrap it round.
If you must attempt a repair of sorts, get some rubber boots of old leads or something similar.
Either way, it will need repaired correctly at some stage.

Jaay

I wondered if the tape would set off 4 wee fires all at the same time. That could be scarey, what with only green goddesses to come to your rescue.

Big AlT

Stevieturbo, it's the plastic cylindrical part underneath the rubber boot thats slightly cracked not actually the boot itself. Maybe I'm just trying to convince myself that it will be fine!!
What I don't want is to find that they are all cracked.
Does anyone know of any anywhere, because I'd like to change the offending pack to check if the performance changes??

Jaay

I still think that replacing them with Bosch Mec coils would be far better in the long run. You could test them with their cracks and they might not show any difference then two days later they go. Those stress fractures are signs telling you to start thinking about new ones.
If your car is new to you I think you will find that throwing £100 at it will be a **** in the Ocean.
Incidently have you put the new plugs in ? Have they done the trick ?? If they have, just keep going untill hesitation is very noticable.
Btw
I think I saw new bosch coils in the for sale section a couple of weeks ago, but i think they were wanting £50 each better to get your own.
J

Big AlT

Yip, it's happened!!!! On replacing the coilpack after even a look at the distressed one and hey presto some nice hesitation under load....typical! So now officially on the look out for some. Hopefully I'll get first refusal of them from the guys who's breaking the 95 wrx, if they are ok that is. On the other hand though, the one I took out looked in good condition before I was so aggressive pulling it out!!

redwrx

The problem you are having seems very characteristic to mine...and your thread has made interesting reading... Ive change the boost solenoid, and the MAF sensor, plugs and now the dumpvalve..ok, that last one was just the excuse i needed..

Ive got my plug gaps set at 1.1, that was the factory setting, but im going to change them to 0.7mm ...if by sunday my car is still launching me toward the windscreen, then next week its a set of coil packs.

If you drive your car 'sensibly' ...if thats a correct thing to say, does your car feel totally normal ...mine does. Its only when you cane it up to around 5k and beyond, with full boost showing.

Interested to know how you get on..

Big AlT

Sounds like you have the same problem as me mate. Exactly the same symptoms.....around 5k a semi violent hesitation. My car wasn't like that until I decided to destroy one of the coil packs TRYING to look at the nick of my plugs which I originally thought was the root of the problem. Think I am going to change the split coil pack when the plugs get changed, just have to find one first! Try turning the 12mm round a tad looser....reason being the pack sometimes goes off centre when refitting these, and the spark isn't centred as a result sometimes causing hesitation.

Jaay

It wasnt a problem for town driving, but when doing some 'sensible' overtaking it does have a major effect and an unsafe one at that!
I was soooooooo happy to get my car back to the way it should of been especialy after trying sooooooo many different things to try and eliminate the problem. And there was an extra good feeling to be had when I found out what Subaru were trying to hook for new ones and how I could get them for a fraction of that. (big rasberry at ya)also bought Ngk IX for £4 each from the US. Unfortunately the postage brought them upto the same price of NGK platinums here in the Uk but with a group buy the plugs get cheaper and would be more ecconomical. Its great being able to get parts from your home, yeah its better to pop in the local Autoparts but you cant get **** here where I live except MAx power ****e from Halfords.
Check out these:

http://groups.msn.com/IMPREZAWRXPhotosite/mywrxpix.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=385 (why not e~mail mark)

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/cars_trucks_suvs/iridiumintro.asp

http://www.monarchproductsinc.com/ngk.htm

http://www.xe.net/ucc/

http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/thread.asp?ThreadID=124323&Page=2

That should just about cover everything

Jaay

CAn someone tell me how to change those addresses into links ???

Jaay

Also, with it being 94 check the condition of the coil packs (these will be what you remove from the plug head) they have a rubber grommit which fits snuggly over the plug head but over time and with repeated removal they get tired and perished. If any of the four rubbers are perished/split/gone completely then goto your breaker to get some more. Also use a torch and where these rubber grommits slip onto the coil packs check for hairline fractures or bits broken off. Either of these mentioned above can cause a nasty missfire/hesitation. Heres a pic of how bad they can look. Read the plugs that are coming out too,(check the colour) they can tell you a little about how the engine is running.
Good luck


Edited to change 'Dealer' to 'Breaker'

[Edited by Jaay - 11/12/2002 6:44:23 PM]