chockymonster

Anybody know what I am going to need to do to get my car prepared for the SVA.

I already have a fuel filler restrictor, a nice bolt on fog light and a speedo convertor.

Is there anything else I need to do to a MY96 to get it able to be registered?

323GTR

They can be fussy on mods and stuff like tubby timers and boost controllers, ,ake sure if you have them that they are ready to be removed. My car recently failed because the tyres had no load index rating on them, and the spokes on the steering wheel (after market jobbie) had less than 2mm radius... Also, any additonal wiring for stuff must be sleeved up properly. Apart from that, you should be ok.

chockymonster

Fortunately it is totally unmodded, I've heard stories of cars failing because the heater controls stick out too far!

Katana

I failed on mine because my exhaust stuck out too much by 1 mm, thats right, 1 mm.

tinvek

if anyone saw a car is born and the episode when it had its sva then you will realise what the problem is

there is a lot that is tested with templates / rulers and as such there is no margin for the human touch. don't knock the examiners, just like mot testers they're doing their job to a set of rules drawn up in offices by people who very rarely get their hands dirty.

most things should be ok as the basic regs are pretty standard around the world but things like control length and width, exhaust overhang etc can be trouble.

Darren king

I am very interested in this also as I have a MY98 STi RA coming over, can someone advise me on the emmisions test?

jonny gav

iTrader: (1)

make sure the switch on the fog lamp you will have to fit is an illuminating one

tinvek

or a warning light. not sure how strict they are but in theory fog warning lights should be orange.

re emmissions i still havent seen one good reason why imports shouldn't be able to match our test in fact all the imports i've ever tested have done apart from onr wrx and that just neded a good thrash and some fresh petrol get a garage to check yours for you it needs to be below .30 at fast idle (2500 to 3500) and below .50 at idle HC needs to be below 200 ppm at fast idle and lamda ratio between .97 and 1.03 at fast idle

chockymonster

Darren,

spoken to the guy that I have imported mine through.
You are going to have the problem that I was afraid of.
On the STI 4 -> the heater controls protrude too far. His fix for this was to pull the ***** off! It then passed.

You will not pass the SVA if you have converted a brake light to a fog light, I'm going to get a light that bolts next to the numberplate housing solely for the sva and then convert afterwards. Make sure you wire the foglamp up well, using plenty of thin cabl ties to make sure the inspector can't pull the wiring.

I'll let you know how I get on with mine, feeling a lot better about it now