Cam belt set-up following service
#1
Just had the 45k service done and I swear that my scoob has lost some of it's pazzaz!!!
Can't quite put my finger on it but it just doesn't seem to take off quite like the scalded cat it was.
I think I need to check that the cambelt has been set up properly but before I launch in with me spanners can anyone tell me what to expect - is it a big job to get the belt covers off and check that all the dots are in the right place?
Can't quite put my finger on it but it just doesn't seem to take off quite like the scalded cat it was.
I think I need to check that the cambelt has been set up properly but before I launch in with me spanners can anyone tell me what to expect - is it a big job to get the belt covers off and check that all the dots are in the right place?
#2
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I think that there are a few things to check before delving into the cambelt.
Have you done the obvious things like checking the oil level is not too high etc..?
I think if the cambelt were wrong, the car would be VERY sick, or it wouldn't run at all.
Have you done the obvious things like checking the oil level is not too high etc..?
I think if the cambelt were wrong, the car would be VERY sick, or it wouldn't run at all.
#3
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I had my cam belt done last week at SS (MY99) - and my baby is running much better - engine is quieter and fuel consumption is better (just!).
As for performance - the acceleration is a lot smoother - dont ask me why - it just feels smoother. Oil maybe ?
T.
#4
DNB,
Yer psychic mate checked the oil and the cretins have filled it up to the third mark or notch.
I'm gonna have it out with them tomorrow but the obvious question is will this have done any damage? I've been running like it for 4 days now thinking "something just aint right"
Yer psychic mate checked the oil and the cretins have filled it up to the third mark or notch.
I'm gonna have it out with them tomorrow but the obvious question is will this have done any damage? I've been running like it for 4 days now thinking "something just aint right"
#5
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Don't worry too much - but give the dealers a bit of stick
I did this to mine once, and it knocked the boost right down because the boost control solenoid got filled with gunge
Realised after a couple of days when things were beating me away fromthe lights
Cleaned it up with brake cleaner and never looked back (MY96 phase 1 engine FYI)
I did this to mine once, and it knocked the boost right down because the boost control solenoid got filled with gunge
Realised after a couple of days when things were beating me away fromthe lights
Cleaned it up with brake cleaner and never looked back (MY96 phase 1 engine FYI)
#6
Cheers DNB,
Had noticed it getting worse over the last days, like you say away from lights etc...
Today was the worst not the usual kick at 2700rpm and a fiat brava was almost keeping up. Soooooo embarassing.
Boost solenoid now I should know where it is but....... only had it a month. Reckon I'll the dealer ought to sort it out don't you?
Had noticed it getting worse over the last days, like you say away from lights etc...
Today was the worst not the usual kick at 2700rpm and a fiat brava was almost keeping up. Soooooo embarassing.
Boost solenoid now I should know where it is but....... only had it a month. Reckon I'll the dealer ought to sort it out don't you?
#7
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You could try to twist the dealers arm into getting this sorted out if you like, but it's quite a simple fix.
You could twist the dealers arm into getting something else you want. However, not everyone likes getting their hands dirty...
Don't forget to let some oil out first - get the dipstick to read between the marks - I try to bias it so that it is closer to the "full" mark than the "empty" - usually about 2/3 of the way up.
how to clean it:
http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...ThreadID=94762
what it looks like (phase 2 engine): Location is on the drivers side inner wing, behind the air box.
http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...hreadID=104929
From memory the green connectors under the drivers side dash operate the test cycle. Be careful, as it will run the radiator fans intermittantly. You have to have the car unimobalised and the key turned to the on position, and you should hear the solenoid clicking. More details available by searching
You could twist the dealers arm into getting something else you want. However, not everyone likes getting their hands dirty...
Don't forget to let some oil out first - get the dipstick to read between the marks - I try to bias it so that it is closer to the "full" mark than the "empty" - usually about 2/3 of the way up.
how to clean it:
http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...ThreadID=94762
what it looks like (phase 2 engine): Location is on the drivers side inner wing, behind the air box.
http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...hreadID=104929
From memory the green connectors under the drivers side dash operate the test cycle. Be careful, as it will run the radiator fans intermittantly. You have to have the car unimobalised and the key turned to the on position, and you should hear the solenoid clicking. More details available by searching
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#8
Dnb,
Cheers for the info, I phoned the garage this morning and explained what I thought the problem was. To their credit they asked me to come straight down so they could inspect the car.
It turned out to be exactly what you said and they sorted out the whole thing there and then - even did a complete oil change and gave me enough extra oil to keep topped up for a year.
I still wouldn't recommend them to anyone but will stop short of naming and shaming.
Cheers for yer help
Cheers for the info, I phoned the garage this morning and explained what I thought the problem was. To their credit they asked me to come straight down so they could inspect the car.
It turned out to be exactly what you said and they sorted out the whole thing there and then - even did a complete oil change and gave me enough extra oil to keep topped up for a year.
I still wouldn't recommend them to anyone but will stop short of naming and shaming.
Cheers for yer help
#11
After checking the ravesblade site last night I would think that an improperly fitted cam belt would do a bit more than effect performance - more likely to obliterate your engine.
Basically if your engine doesn't mash itself when you first turn the key after a belt change then it must be right. - Very re-assuring
Basically if your engine doesn't mash itself when you first turn the key after a belt change then it must be right. - Very re-assuring
#12
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Babber recently posted of poor performance and ignition retard following them fitting it and he got them to look at it again after my suggestions - it was one tooth out and correcting it sorted the car out. It is not necessarily all or nothing.
#13
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You can knock it out in one direction to gain torque....but only at low loads...if you've a turbo restrictor fitted..try a search on 22b
Richard
Richard
#14
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Have heard about one tooth out cambelts before - annd nearly did it to Father-in-law's Montego
He wouldn't have been happy with me if I had done that...
I usually check and suggest the "easier to fix" possibilities first though (Unlike a certain place I won't mention that tried to sell me quite a few things I didn't need...)
He wouldn't have been happy with me if I had done that...
I usually check and suggest the "easier to fix" possibilities first though (Unlike a certain place I won't mention that tried to sell me quite a few things I didn't need...)
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