'ello all,

From various threads I see that a MAF dying on you can be a very bad thing indeed. What are the symptoms to look out for? Once they start how long do you have to replace it? Are there any aftermarket MAF's that are better/more robust than the standard ones? TIA

Regards,
Andre

 

Mine started by surging and feeling 'lumpy' up to 3000rpm then it was fine, after we fitted an AFR meter we could then 'see' that the ecu was dumping fuel in at idle and it was all over the place up to the 3k bit.

Idle was very poor, even after cleaning the sensor it was very unstable...it finally gave up after about six months...CEL engine died, no go at all.

Waited a few minutes, started and 'limped' home.

 

My MY99 ate MAFS with divorce threatening frequency !! but hey..if you run an inductuion kit....
Symptoms were lumpy running, eratic tickover and sometimes no idle at all, especially when warm and pulling upto rounderbouts etc.
Also sometimes check engine light came on.
If you plug in the black diagnostic conectors under the dash (see other threads)I think its code 23-airflow sensor line. ie 2 long 3 short flashes

 

Sometimes there is no warning at all. The MAF starts to under read, the ECU then pours in less fuel, causing a lean mixture, then pop. There have been a few engines that have blown like this.

Cheers,

Wrexy.

 

Thats scary wrexy!

Spose its good to have the AFR then eh?

 

Yep! Either an AFR or Delta Dash.

Cheers,

Wrexy.

 

Fit an afr and have the display visible at all times, Deltadash is great but you can't drive round with a laptop connected all the time (well some of us can I suppose)

cheers

Bob

 

Thanks, Ultra-lite are the only AFR suppliers on Scoobymania, any other makes I can look at? Do you need any fancy interfaces to fit one?

 

You could try this home made one http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...threadid=57428. Costs about £14 to make.

 

I have a John Banks/Mole built AFR with a bar LED display, it is now fitted on the dash and IS visible at all times....I couldnt do without it now

 

Anyone actually tested the accuracy of the DIY version on a dyno with an airflow meter?

 

www.jaycar.com.au do a *very* cheap DIY kit - all the bits required, you just need a soldering iron and somewhere to mount it. As mentioned above, you then need to ensure correct calibration - best is to use an accurate DVM or oscilliscope to compare readings from lambda sensor and what kit is showing. Remember the lambda sensor under-reads when hot.

Alternatively, just buy the lambdalink - more expensive, but already built and in a nice (subjective ) box.

I have lambda and knock leds mounted in my cupholder - once you've had this, you wouldn't want to go blind again.

Richard

 

I believe the 'accuracy' comes from setting up the values of the pots so that the voltages trigger the correct lights, if you get that right you are then 'seeing' the voltages at xx co%.

Speak to Dr.Banks, he knows all about them