Knocklink
#1
Hi Subarulovers,
I have an question, I have order a Knocklink from MRT last, but it is a little bit weird after installation.
The lights is not very bright, you can't even see if the sun is shinin g in the car. Is this normal?? And when I start the car only one light "bright" is this normal I thought all four have to burn.
The wiring I have double check, can someone tell me, i have no idea.
Regards Mike
I have an question, I have order a Knocklink from MRT last, but it is a little bit weird after installation.
The lights is not very bright, you can't even see if the sun is shinin g in the car. Is this normal?? And when I start the car only one light "bright" is this normal I thought all four have to burn.
The wiring I have double check, can someone tell me, i have no idea.
Regards Mike
#2
First one on "dim". The rest are extinguished. If you get noise, one or two greens should be lit. You can't miss them, they are bright when lit.
Get someone to tap gently on the sensor's mounting bolt with a small screwdriver. You should be able to see all the LED's light up.
Get someone to tap gently on the sensor's mounting bolt with a small screwdriver. You should be able to see all the LED's light up.
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#10
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I've got my Lambda Link and KnockLink on top of my dashboard, even in bright sunlight (when we get some!) I have no issues with not seeing the lights on the unit....
#13
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Late the other night I was doing about 120Mph (on a private runway you understand) and noticed my knocklink was going mental! the 2 green bottom LED's were flashing alot.
Is this normal when doing this speed? I have got a MY99 Type R so the gearing is that bit different, revving more.
Is this normal when doing this speed? I have got a MY99 Type R so the gearing is that bit different, revving more.
#14
does one of these kits contain a knock sensor as well as the wiring, or does it rely on an existing sensor? I think I'd like to retrofit a knock detection system to my Peugeot, as it would make setting up the ignition a lot easier.
#15
We map loads of sccobys for people, and of course as part of this we use knock detectors. We had a car to do once that had been using a Link ECU with a KnockLink fitted. The owner wanted to use anti-lag and his Link ECU could not do that, so we converted it onto a GEMS system.
Before we did this, we took the car up the road with the Link ECU still in place to see what it was like. The car felt quite lively, and the KnockLink was not showing any det. But we could hear the det under heavy load at around 3600rpm. We swapped the ECUs, mapped the car - no det - happy owner.
The Moral of all this ?? I doubt there will ever be a better knock detector than the human ear when it knows what to listen for. Be carefull with the KnockLink - it can lead you into a false sense of security.
Before we did this, we took the car up the road with the Link ECU still in place to see what it was like. The car felt quite lively, and the KnockLink was not showing any det. But we could hear the det under heavy load at around 3600rpm. We swapped the ECUs, mapped the car - no det - happy owner.
The Moral of all this ?? I doubt there will ever be a better knock detector than the human ear when it knows what to listen for. Be carefull with the KnockLink - it can lead you into a false sense of security.
#16
I agree!
I have heard audible det "pik piak pik piak..." with the KL only showing 2 flashing greens, WOT.
Advise is: Listen carefully everytime you drive hard. Blast the ICE only when you're crusing. Better yet, only use the radio for traffic info.
I have heard audible det "pik piak pik piak..." with the KL only showing 2 flashing greens, WOT.
Advise is: Listen carefully everytime you drive hard. Blast the ICE only when you're crusing. Better yet, only use the radio for traffic info.
#17
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I'd be a bit suspect of relying on only my ears to detect knock - radio or no radio, exhaust/induction noise is also not insignificant.
Certainly, check your knocklink is functioning on a regular basis though - a light tap with a key should be enough to give a 'big red'
Richard
Certainly, check your knocklink is functioning on a regular basis though - a light tap with a key should be enough to give a 'big red'
Richard
#19
Sorry - Let me just clarify what I was trying to say, I've read it again and I can see it might be a bit misleading.
When I said 'the human ear' I wasn't really suggesting that you just drive the car listening for it. We use a set of 'det cans'. These allow us to listen to what's going on in the engine.
The point I was trying to make is that just because the KnockLink isn't jumping up and down, doesn't meen you've not got any knock.
Knock is a very strange thing. The exact sound changes on different engines, with different fuels etc. I sometimes find myself putting loads of advance in to cause det, just so I know what it sounds like on the engine I'm mapping. (Only for a brief moment of course. So a unit 'tuned' to a single frequency trying to listen for knock, might be showing something other than knock on one engine, yet not pick up real knock on another.
If we map a car and leave the knock sensor in use (which is very rare in rallying, as stones under the car sound like knock!!) then we 'tune' the ECU to listen for the specific type of knock that the engine in question creates.
Hope this clears things up a bit!
When I said 'the human ear' I wasn't really suggesting that you just drive the car listening for it. We use a set of 'det cans'. These allow us to listen to what's going on in the engine.
The point I was trying to make is that just because the KnockLink isn't jumping up and down, doesn't meen you've not got any knock.
Knock is a very strange thing. The exact sound changes on different engines, with different fuels etc. I sometimes find myself putting loads of advance in to cause det, just so I know what it sounds like on the engine I'm mapping. (Only for a brief moment of course. So a unit 'tuned' to a single frequency trying to listen for knock, might be showing something other than knock on one engine, yet not pick up real knock on another.
If we map a car and leave the knock sensor in use (which is very rare in rallying, as stones under the car sound like knock!!) then we 'tune' the ECU to listen for the specific type of knock that the engine in question creates.
Hope this clears things up a bit!
#20
Hello gents,
picked up a Knocklink this afternoon & desperately need help with a couple of things!!
Firstly car is P1/STi V5
I'd like to position it in the corner by the A pillar, I lifted the strip by the screen & found a couple of holes to run cable thru', they just seem to go thru' behind the dash.
Question 1: How do I get the cable thru' the bulkhead to the engine compartment? I cant see any simple grommet or holes under the dash, how have you all done it please.
Question 2: Is there a spare position for the new sensor? I've seen the pics on the US website, can't make much sense of it when I look at my car!
I also believe I need to remove the intercooler. Anything I need to watch out for? I have not done this before!
Any and all advise would be much appreciated as I'd like to get this done this weekend!
Many thanks
Steve
picked up a Knocklink this afternoon & desperately need help with a couple of things!!
Firstly car is P1/STi V5
I'd like to position it in the corner by the A pillar, I lifted the strip by the screen & found a couple of holes to run cable thru', they just seem to go thru' behind the dash.
Question 1: How do I get the cable thru' the bulkhead to the engine compartment? I cant see any simple grommet or holes under the dash, how have you all done it please.
Question 2: Is there a spare position for the new sensor? I've seen the pics on the US website, can't make much sense of it when I look at my car!
I also believe I need to remove the intercooler. Anything I need to watch out for? I have not done this before!
Any and all advise would be much appreciated as I'd like to get this done this weekend!
Many thanks
Steve
#21
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Steve i have run mine through the rubber gromet just above the ecu in the car, i know it a bit of a way from the drivers side bit...
If not there is a rubber gromet on the drivers side that the wiring harness goes through iirc.
Rob
If not there is a rubber gromet on the drivers side that the wiring harness goes through iirc.
Rob
#22
Hi Rob, many thanks for that!
I just found a grommet on the passenger side with a hose running thru it so I've used that.
Sooo, I now have the unit by the pillar, wires behind dash ready to be connected & lead thru into engine compartment.
Where do I connect the red & black to??
Then the bit I'm dreading! Intercooler off.
Seems to be a lot of stuff connected to it, hose from turbo to back of I/C, brackets, dump valve..........
Do I have to remove all of this stuff or just a couple of things to move it out of the way???
Any more advice please???? It's starting to get dark and I can hear Guinness being poured at my local
Cheers
Steve
I just found a grommet on the passenger side with a hose running thru it so I've used that.
Sooo, I now have the unit by the pillar, wires behind dash ready to be connected & lead thru into engine compartment.
Where do I connect the red & black to??
Then the bit I'm dreading! Intercooler off.
Seems to be a lot of stuff connected to it, hose from turbo to back of I/C, brackets, dump valve..........
Do I have to remove all of this stuff or just a couple of things to move it out of the way???
Any more advice please???? It's starting to get dark and I can hear Guinness being poured at my local
Cheers
Steve
#23
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Connect the red to the ciggarette lighter or stereo live, and earth it to a good chassis point..
Rob
on the intercooler off situ, no choice mate... mounting bolts off i/c to throttle body hose off, i/c to turbo pipe off...
Rob
on the intercooler off situ, no choice mate... mounting bolts off i/c to throttle body hose off, i/c to turbo pipe off...
#29
Just found out actually,
You CAN use it with either but you MUST specify whether you want it with or without the Bosch sensor when ordering from MRT.
KNKT is MRT's part no for just the display
MUSSE008 is the part no WITH the sensor and is called "Knocklink kit"
If you just as for a "Knocklink" they will just send the display
The sensor is roughly as expensive as the display too!
Cheers
Rich
You CAN use it with either but you MUST specify whether you want it with or without the Bosch sensor when ordering from MRT.
KNKT is MRT's part no for just the display
MUSSE008 is the part no WITH the sensor and is called "Knocklink kit"
If you just as for a "Knocklink" they will just send the display
The sensor is roughly as expensive as the display too!
Cheers
Rich
#30
Hi Rich,
Got my KnockLink from JI's Saturday. Did'nt spec anything and it came with Bosch Sensor.
Got it all fitted Sunday with help from the guy's above!!
Beware, I am told that wiring the display to the existing sensor can cause the ECU to react to erroneous signals. Advice is to always use the secondary (& much more sensitive) Sensor.
Be good,
Steve.
Edited to add: BTW Rich, having seen your car do you really have any room for the extra sensor anyway?????
s.
[Edited by Steve_F - 9/23/2002 7:26:09 PM]
Got my KnockLink from JI's Saturday. Did'nt spec anything and it came with Bosch Sensor.
Got it all fitted Sunday with help from the guy's above!!
Beware, I am told that wiring the display to the existing sensor can cause the ECU to react to erroneous signals. Advice is to always use the secondary (& much more sensitive) Sensor.
Be good,
Steve.
Edited to add: BTW Rich, having seen your car do you really have any room for the extra sensor anyway?????
s.
[Edited by Steve_F - 9/23/2002 7:26:09 PM]
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