Evening,started as a suspension thread,but as have now a broken engine from a track evening at Snetterton last week,new thread.Car had a rebuilt(API/bought with a 1000miles on it)newage sti ej20(oil cooler and rcm groupA baffle sump added) put in it in 2013,have done around 30plus trackdays/evenings,regualary serviced and mapped for around 285bhp(probably why it lasted so long).Unfortunately halfway though the evening on track driving along the back straight it felt like a misfire and then loads of smoke and engine shut down.Conclusion over this weekend with a hydrolocked engine,spark plugs out and 2 egg cups of water out of the rear chamber time for a forum thread. I have 4 trackday evenings booked over the next 2months(as they are booking up fast/taking holiday from work.Realistically donny 20th May is out and early June.
So ideally another rebuilt like engine with low mileage on it would be perfect(invoice of proven work of course),and would have to get it plumbed in and mappedrecommendations please).Would salvage some of the trackdays,if booked in quick enough.
Next option put it in somewhere(ideas?) for drive in/rebuild/map/out.Downside is the engine will need realistically 1500miles for bedding in as used for trackays(MOT but will need to insure/tax)Im a lorry driver so out 5/6 days a week,so what with rebuild time and getting mileage done will probaly lose most of the summer.Ideally i want an engine giving me a strong 320/330 bhp,I have a5speed DCCD gearbox,would have the baffle sump and oil cooler on,I have a V35 turbo and later version tmic,rcm panel filter(standered air box).
Is a 3/3.5 grand budget unrealistic or am I going to lose the whole summer for a bigger budget.If so I think I will have to decide to do it or sell the car as it is as nearly 18months will be really frustrating.Thoughts/recommendations

 

You will get lots of recommendations for engine builders, and this post is no different.

I used Paul finch of “finch motorsport” a couple of years ago after I fscked my 2.1 up.

I stripped my engine and new block down myself, and handed him a box of bits (well labelled, of course), and after a couple of weeks I drove up to pick the engine up.

he used all the parts that were salvageable from my old engine, and gave me different options for the bits that weren’t (without any hard sales tactics).

I think he may also offers a drive in/drive out service now, which perhaps works for you.

the engine he built for me has been spot on so far, though in fairness I’ve only done about 1000 miles in it (of which ca 250 on track). It’s not even using a lot of oil during run in (less than my OEM dis during run-in, for sure)

if I were in need of an engine again, I’d go back to Paul, and if he weren’t around I would personally go to Slowboy Racing in brands hatch for a drive in/out including remapping.

however, this kind of choice is very subjective - do lots of research and make sure you’re happy with how the builder communicates etc.

 

Re the budget, depending on what you’re having done, and if you are happy to reuse parts that are ok, and can do strip downs etc yourself, it must be achievable, surely? I paid less than that for mine, but I had a spare empty block, and my rods/pistons/heads/some other bits were reused as there weren’t anything wrong with them.

for a drive in/out, I’d be surprised if you could get it done for that kind of money ;(

 

Thanks for this,both people on my hit list.Ill see what else is suggested.Another thing is their all going to be stupied busy.Cheers

 

TDR prices:

http://tdracing.co.uk/project/engine-rebuilds/

 

Just a quick bump,no luck so far on the purchase of a rebuilt engine on a realistic budget for trackdays and recommended builders booked out for months,.Will probaly put car up for sale end of the month,and see what happens,Im not a mechanic.Cheers

 

Why don't you contact @Mattybr5@MB Developments He has a few classics he still needs to list. Or get a new age long block off him. Other option is to buy a new short block from ICP etc.

 

Newage long block is no use to him different bolt pattern on manifold amongst many other things.

 

I know a newage long block won't be a direct fit. But could be an option. Loads of guys run that set up so lots of information out there. Would need a standalone ecu and certain ancillaries.

 

You Sir are not for real. Why suggest it in the first place then.

 

Wind you neck back in mate. Read his first post and you will see why I suggested it. Could still be had around his budget. Options can be good more information to make a decision.

 

No need to wind my neck in a newage short block is what is needed not a long block. To convert from v3/4 heads to newage heads or v5/6 for that matter is certainly well over the op budget.

 

Its not you just need to shop around. Yes it will be used parts to keep cost down. £3.5k is plenty to do that. You won't get drive in drive out service for that price. You will have to do some of the running about yourself.

Thread poster hasn't said it isn't something he would consider and we are derailing the topic. Lets move on.

 

Newage short block are the quotes recommended for a quick route,rather than a full rebuild,as the rest can just be bolted on.£5/6 grand is a finished ball park figure.Have spoken to MB,have engines,but their fine for just road use.hence the rebulit route,Matt sorted the last engine.Cheers

 

Fair enough mate. Let us know how you get on.

 

Still no luck,hate seeing do nothing,have put it up for sale on ebay(item number:304101824795).Hoping circumstances change sooner than later.Cheers

 

Could you use this

https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...ck&searchPart=

Vaguely remember stockcar saying these are normal blocks so take the whole thickwalled thing lightly.

 

Stockcar never said anything of the sort..........

the 'thick wall' replacement blocks that are now available have a massive issue in that whist the overall wall is near 14mm there are a couple of specific points where its machined for tooling access and is little more than around 7mm.........guess where they split the liner and crack..........

 

I might be getting my wires crossed but there was something you said about the advertised thicker walls on their performance blocks and them not being anything other than standard.

 

Thanks for ideas/advice,car sold.Gutted,but still have EG33 SVX.

 

you haven't read the post(s) correctly.......as mentioned above there is a machined part of the "thick walled" blocks that is circa 7mm
a std 2.0 SCDB wall min. thickness is just over 8mm.........

 

No no no I'm referring to a reply you made in a different thread about ICPs supposed better blocks. Might have been on the AS Performance account. I can't find the thread it was that long ago.

Edited to add: I found what I was looking for. It was bugging me because I know my memory is bad, just didn't think it was that bad (its a lot worse then I thought it is). So turns out you called ICP out on something they had written on their advert. Making it sound like their thick walled blocks were thicker than the standard thick walled blocks out there. Adverts have now changed to show correct information and you are right they machine the standard blocks which lead to the issues you mentioned previously.

 

At that price it wasn't going to hang around long

 

sounds more likely, just knew we wouldn't have said they weren't "thick wall"

unfortunately it seems these days a lot of selling peeps on the net have no regard for actual facts and just describe stuff in very poor ways (being polite!!)
even worse is those that sell stuff purporting to be something else - like genuine Subaru when its nothing of the sort