Hi All
Currrently having a 2.1 stroker kit fitted to my Wr1! what would be the running in times for the engine and oil changes etc ! thanks for any Advice ! I want to make sure its all running good before going for an new uprated Turbo,injectors remap etc !

 

Best to ask whoever built it as there are many opinions on how to run a engine in ,, iv always ran mine in over about 1500 miles , first 500 on cheap miniral oil (halfords) then dump and fill with mineral again , then at 1000 miles I put the good stuff in , do another 500 and then I'm done ,,, no motorway driving just lots of B roads and up and down though the Rev range like you would in your normal car really

 

I'm no expert but I'm running mine in at the moment (running-in map) but basically ask whoever is building it the best process - I think mine had 'the good stuff' at 500 then it will be another oil change at 1000. Keeping an eye on pressures, temps, leaks...max 0.5 boost until about 700 miles, then last 300 miles max 1.0 boost...after that oil change and remap.

Dom - do you suggest doing another 500 after map then?

 

Most engines that I know of and all my own forged builds have done around 1500 before they have there first major map but it's all down to the builders advice really

 

Thanks Dom

 

Thanks Guys !! still cant make my mind up about what turbo to get !!

 

What you don't want is mineral oil in it for any length of time, max 50 miles to initially bed the rings, it damages the big end bearings, it also does scuff the cam lobes if you have uprated valve springs / cams, as it breaks down under the cam lobe nose pressure.

 

In reality an engine needs about 50 miles with a little boost to bed in the rings and its ready for mapping. However for precaution most companies recommend 1000 miles run, 50 miles on mineral oil, then 200miles on a cheap semi synthetic, another 250 on the cheap stuff, another 500 on cheap stuff and then at a 1000 miles the synthethic oil you will run the engine on.

 

No probs mate , as I said there are a lot of opinions on how to run it in lol ,, johns (stormbringer) and marshy both done around 2k before they were mapped and they have just had there's built by advanced ,,, iv also had a couple of engines not bed in at all and have to be rebuilt due to not running in properly and breathing too heavy , I'm told this was down to dumping the mineral oil to soon and once I left it in a bit longer it ran in fine and is still going strong 8 years later

 

Cheers Dom

I'm now a bit worried that perhaps I'm looking to map it too soon without it having properly bedded in - the thinking was to run it up to 1000 miles, oil change then perhaps swap ECU's (Ecutek for Alcatek), turbos (RCM400 for Precision) with associated mods (headers etc)...which would give me an added bonus of the burble.

I'll pick up with the engine builder for his thoughts

At the moment the DCCD seems to have a mind of it's own

 

I'm sure 1000 miles would be fine but your right to ask the builder

rather than mix up he thread send me a pm with what your dccd is doing mate

 

In my experience it's all about cleanliness, getting rid of all the metal that comes off the rings and bores (and whatever else was floating about in the build). Run it up to temp on mineral and then dump it along with the filter before driving anywhere! You will be amazed of the colour of the oil (the amount of metal in it) and the amount of metal in the filter.
I then do another semi easy (loads of boost but not high revs) 100 ish miles, oil and filter again (should be clean this time)
Then your good to go

 

I had my previous car run in for 500 miles before mapping but was told to not run it in too gently. It was a forged 2.5 and lasted a long time. Regular oil changes as above and it was spot on.

 

Currently running my 2.1 stroker in to a 1000 miles, no revving higher than 4k rpm.

I went with an SC46, feels strong even only if upto 4k rpm . .due to be mapped soon . . . Can't wait

Good luck with yours

 

Same running in routine for mine too, with the necessary early mineral oil etc etc. I seem to remember the builder (Martyn @ ETuner) providing a written process for running in.

I also went with the SC46 on a 2.1 CDB, that was 4 years ago now and its still pulling well. Everyday driver too - no issues at all.