2.1 stroker running in period
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: North Devon
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2.1 stroker running in period
Hi All
Currrently having a 2.1 stroker kit fitted to my Wr1! what would be the running in times for the engine and oil changes etc ! thanks for any Advice ! I want to make sure its all running good before going for an new uprated Turbo,injectors remap etc !
Currrently having a 2.1 stroker kit fitted to my Wr1! what would be the running in times for the engine and oil changes etc ! thanks for any Advice ! I want to make sure its all running good before going for an new uprated Turbo,injectors remap etc !
#2
Scooby Regular
Best to ask whoever built it as there are many opinions on how to run a engine in ,, iv always ran mine in over about 1500 miles , first 500 on cheap miniral oil (halfords) then dump and fill with mineral again , then at 1000 miles I put the good stuff in , do another 500 and then I'm done ,,, no motorway driving just lots of B roads and up and down though the Rev range like you would in your normal car really
#3
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: North Somerset
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm no expert but I'm running mine in at the moment (running-in map) but basically ask whoever is building it the best process - I think mine had 'the good stuff' at 500 then it will be another oil change at 1000. Keeping an eye on pressures, temps, leaks...max 0.5 boost until about 700 miles, then last 300 miles max 1.0 boost...after that oil change and remap.
Dom - do you suggest doing another 500 after map then?
Dom - do you suggest doing another 500 after map then?
#4
Scooby Regular
I'm no expert but I'm running mine in at the moment (running-in map) but basically ask whoever is building it the best process - I think mine had 'the good stuff' at 500 then it will be another oil change at 1000. Keeping an eye on pressures, temps, leaks...max 0.5 boost until about 700 miles, then last 300 miles max 1.0 boost...after that oil change and remap.
Dom - do you suggest doing another 500 after map then?
Dom - do you suggest doing another 500 after map then?
Trending Topics
#8
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (68)
In reality an engine needs about 50 miles with a little boost to bed in the rings and its ready for mapping. However for precaution most companies recommend 1000 miles run, 50 miles on mineral oil, then 200miles on a cheap semi synthetic, another 250 on the cheap stuff, another 500 on cheap stuff and then at a 1000 miles the synthethic oil you will run the engine on.
#9
Scooby Regular
No probs mate , as I said there are a lot of opinions on how to run it in lol ,, johns (stormbringer) and marshy both done around 2k before they were mapped and they have just had there's built by advanced ,,, iv also had a couple of engines not bed in at all and have to be rebuilt due to not running in properly and breathing too heavy , I'm told this was down to dumping the mineral oil to soon and once I left it in a bit longer it ran in fine and is still going strong 8 years later
#10
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: North Somerset
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No probs mate , as I said there are a lot of opinions on how to run it in lol ,, johns (stormbringer) and marshy both done around 2k before they were mapped and they have just had there's built by advanced ,,, iv also had a couple of engines not bed in at all and have to be rebuilt due to not running in properly and breathing too heavy , I'm told this was down to dumping the mineral oil to soon and once I left it in a bit longer it ran in fine and is still going strong 8 years later
I'm now a bit worried that perhaps I'm looking to map it too soon without it having properly bedded in - the thinking was to run it up to 1000 miles, oil change then perhaps swap ECU's (Ecutek for Alcatek), turbos (RCM400 for Precision) with associated mods (headers etc)...which would give me an added bonus of the burble.
I'll pick up with the engine builder for his thoughts
At the moment the DCCD seems to have a mind of it's own
#11
Scooby Regular
Cheers Dom
I'm now a bit worried that perhaps I'm looking to map it too soon without it having properly bedded in - the thinking was to run it up to 1000 miles, oil change then perhaps swap ECU's (Ecutek for Alcatek), turbos (RCM400 for Precision) with associated mods (headers etc)...which would give me an added bonus of the burble.
I'll pick up with the engine builder for his thoughts
At the moment the DCCD seems to have a mind of it's own
I'm now a bit worried that perhaps I'm looking to map it too soon without it having properly bedded in - the thinking was to run it up to 1000 miles, oil change then perhaps swap ECU's (Ecutek for Alcatek), turbos (RCM400 for Precision) with associated mods (headers etc)...which would give me an added bonus of the burble.
I'll pick up with the engine builder for his thoughts
At the moment the DCCD seems to have a mind of it's own
rather than mix up he thread send me a pm with what your dccd is doing mate
#12
In my experience it's all about cleanliness, getting rid of all the metal that comes off the rings and bores (and whatever else was floating about in the build). Run it up to temp on mineral and then dump it along with the filter before driving anywhere! You will be amazed of the colour of the oil (the amount of metal in it) and the amount of metal in the filter.
I then do another semi easy (loads of boost but not high revs) 100 ish miles, oil and filter again (should be clean this time)
Then your good to go
I then do another semi easy (loads of boost but not high revs) 100 ish miles, oil and filter again (should be clean this time)
Then your good to go
#15
I also went with the SC46 on a 2.1 CDB, that was 4 years ago now and its still pulling well. Everyday driver too - no issues at all.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bats-Wrx
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
23
29 September 2016 04:07 PM