New age wagon 300+hp ?
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New age wagon 300+hp ?
Hi going to give the wagon some love this year at the moment it's 255 hp standered PPP plans are
Td05
Pink injectors
255 pump
H&s up pipe /down pipe /decat /keeping 2.5 with original pp back box
Is this all that is needed ?
Am I right in thinking that if I install all this kit myself and get one of the recommended mappers from here to come to my house I can achieve 300+?i have priced this as coming in around 1000 -1200 does this seem all realistic to u fellas on here ?
Td05
Pink injectors
255 pump
H&s up pipe /down pipe /decat /keeping 2.5 with original pp back box
Is this all that is needed ?
Am I right in thinking that if I install all this kit myself and get one of the recommended mappers from here to come to my house I can achieve 300+?i have priced this as coming in around 1000 -1200 does this seem all realistic to u fellas on here ?
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I'm thinking of doing the same thing with my 05 PPP wagon.
Only other thing I might add to the list is a STI top mount intercooler and undertray.
I'd also go for a Hybrid TD04 but that's just me
I'm currently running full decat, pf7 plugs, updated fuel pump, K&N panel filter and remapped to 279/301.
Only other thing I might add to the list is a STI top mount intercooler and undertray.
I'd also go for a Hybrid TD04 but that's just me
I'm currently running full decat, pf7 plugs, updated fuel pump, K&N panel filter and remapped to 279/301.
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With the Sti tmic tray is that just a case of changing the plastic trim or playing about with the bonnet .i have the panel filter what back box u got ?
I am hoping to get a reasonable about of improvement in sound from the pro drive back box from a full decat .love the nut spec but it's just to loud.only other thing people have mentioned is 3port solenoid valve not sure if this is needed or not?
I am hoping to get a reasonable about of improvement in sound from the pro drive back box from a full decat .love the nut spec but it's just to loud.only other thing people have mentioned is 3port solenoid valve not sure if this is needed or not?
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Fitting the tray is straight forward apparently. You have to modify it slightly, move two mounting holes on it if I remember correctly.
I've got the standard Prodrive backbox, I've been told it might be a bit restrictive but don't know for sure. I don't think you need a three port for 300 but every bit helps.
I've got the standard Prodrive backbox, I've been told it might be a bit restrictive but don't know for sure. I don't think you need a three port for 300 but every bit helps.
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which TD05 are you thinking of? I have a 16g on mine and find it has a decent midrange but you can't compete with the likes of a 20g for top end.
The STI intercooler and undertray is just a matter of replacing the WRX parts with the STI parts - definitely worth doing if you can get intercooler/undertray together at a good price.
The three port is needed for certain turbos/wastegate combos as the 2port can't bleed enough air to make your boost target.
The STI intercooler and undertray is just a matter of replacing the WRX parts with the STI parts - definitely worth doing if you can get intercooler/undertray together at a good price.
The three port is needed for certain turbos/wastegate combos as the 2port can't bleed enough air to make your boost target.
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Well I want to really get 350 hp if I'm going to spend the money and effort might as well make it worth while.is the td05 16g capable of that power or would the 18 g be a better choice would prefer 16 given 18 is twice the price.
Also didn't get an answer on the remap do I just fit everything and get someone to my house to flash a map on it so I can drive it .
Also didn't get an answer on the remap do I just fit everything and get someone to my house to flash a map on it so I can drive it .
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What clutch are you running?
Whats the mileage on the engine?
Would you consider a VF turbo? they seem to have a good following.
You might be reducing the life of the engine/gearbox considerably by going that high on standard internals. From researching on here I think it has more to do with how you drive...
I'm not sure if it would be ok to drive with that many mods in one go. I'd choose a mapper first and get their advice.
I've only ever used Bob Rawle for my mapping. Its a 200 mile round trip for me but his reputation and work speaks for itself. He also maps on the road which is always fun
Whats the mileage on the engine?
Would you consider a VF turbo? they seem to have a good following.
You might be reducing the life of the engine/gearbox considerably by going that high on standard internals. From researching on here I think it has more to do with how you drive...
I'm not sure if it would be ok to drive with that many mods in one go. I'd choose a mapper first and get their advice.
I've only ever used Bob Rawle for my mapping. Its a 200 mile round trip for me but his reputation and work speaks for itself. He also maps on the road which is always fun
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Hi it's got 94000 always run on either helix or pro s .but if that is pushing it I will stick at lower power as its my fishing car so needs to be reliable.not sure on clutch I would expect original as there is no paper work for replacement.so I am expecting to change that .what would be a more realistic power to still keep it reliable.im in Essex and was going to use one of the 2 mappers that have been mentioned on here a thew times.
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As far as power's concerned its totally up to you, there doesn't appear to be any hard and fast rules. Some engines have gone with basic mods some last for ages running massive power. That why I've put it down to how you drive it. Apparently its torque that kills things.
I've always got it in the back of my mind the original engine from the factory was running 210-220bhp so running 50% more power though it is always going to be a grey area.
On my own car i'm going for 300/300 with plenty of power low down in the rev range.
As for clutch the standard will struggle, you might need to replace with an Exedy.
I've always got it in the back of my mind the original engine from the factory was running 210-220bhp so running 50% more power though it is always going to be a grey area.
On my own car i'm going for 300/300 with plenty of power low down in the rev range.
As for clutch the standard will struggle, you might need to replace with an Exedy.
#10
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350 or so you would be pushing the limits of the gearbox. You might get there on a 16g if you have good enough fuel and intercooling - you'd definitely get there on an 18g and you could get away with a wider range of fuel choice too.
The 550's aren't much bigger than the 440's you'd be replacing - I didn't drive on mine and I wouldn't recommend it until the map has been adjusted for them.
If there isn't a mapper nearby - see if anyone nearby has an openport lead, adjusting for the injectors is easy enough and so long as you drive off boost you won't have much to worry about.
The 550's aren't much bigger than the 440's you'd be replacing - I didn't drive on mine and I wouldn't recommend it until the map has been adjusted for them.
If there isn't a mapper nearby - see if anyone nearby has an openport lead, adjusting for the injectors is easy enough and so long as you drive off boost you won't have much to worry about.
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Fitting the tray is straight forward apparently. You have to modify it slightly, move two mounting holes on it if I remember correctly.
I've got the standard Prodrive backbox, I've been told it might be a bit restrictive but don't know for sure. I don't think you need a three port for 300 but every bit helps.
I've got the standard Prodrive backbox, I've been told it might be a bit restrictive but don't know for sure. I don't think you need a three port for 300 but every bit helps.
http://bilar.co.uk/subaru/graphs/jgm-2008-11-14.jpg
(red line)
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what ever floats your boat i supose
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