N/A Power

Trying to find information but nothing really comes up, im looking to move my engine back about 4" closer to the bulkhead. Would I have problems of driveshafts popping out? obviously they would be at abit more of an angle.


There's method to my madness.

Raptorman

iTrader: (1)

Why would you need to move the engine back?

I am no expert but I imagine things like engine
mounts would need to be relocated at the very least.

Can you not see if its physically possible by just looking under the bonnet?

N/A Power

Thinking of connecting something special to the box but I need a couple more inch's of room in the engine bay.

A lot needs to be moved back but my main concern is the driveshafts

Raptorman

iTrader: (1)

I am sure it's perfectly achievable given a top quality mechanic and deep
pockets, the question really is "is it worth it".

Go on tell us what you are wanting to do, you never know someone
might have done it already.

N/A Power

I have searched the net for countless hours and it hasn't been done. The new motor is sat in my workshop waiting for a new home.

It will be worth it with this engine but I need to figure this gearbox dilemma out before i go any further. The Subaru box suits the idea perfectly.
If it wont work i will fund a skyline 4wd box and hack up a front skyline sump/diff (£400 ahh)

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

No. Engine sits just in front of the front cross member which would be in the way. Then you would have issues with the transmission not being lined up with the tunnel and the centre shaft. The driveshafts could not take four inches back they would be far beyond their limits and I don't think they would even turn without falling out or locking up. This is all guess work from what I have observed working under/on my cars.

There are already drift Imprezas with skyline engines and transmissions but I am fairly sure they cost a lot to get like that.

wms-racing

You can do it, but you need to mock it up and measure the 'plunge' what you are going to find is the angle of the cv when the suspension is at full droop will pull the end of the shaft out. You need to build it up without an inner cv boot on and no spring on the upright, you can then take it from full compression to full droop and see where the inner cv is in the outer casing. You will probably need longer shafts.

N/A Power

Going to have to look at another approach, but the motor is going to overhang the front wheels a lot and the rad will have to be pushed under the slam panel. Just Going to have a lot of weight infront of the front wheels, I could end up putting the rad in the boot as that would be less work than pushing the motor back., but then id lose my boot space and the car is my daily.

Cant find a vehicle to suit my build, the engine im using will be adapted to a Subaru box because of how short/available and cheap they are lol.

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

Really? If you move a standard EJ block back there is only less then an inch between the back of the sump and the front subframe? The sump is then a good three to four inches deep. So unless you either don't have a sump or raise the engine about 3-4inches (which would then not line up with the transmission which can't be raised that much due to the tunnel clearance) how would it fit?

Can't really see the point when you can get everything you need from the original engine? Plus the insurance issues etc.

birchy2010

iTrader: (12)

Yes it can be done, Its on a few of the 22B/Time attack cars and gives better turn in with more weight behind the front wheels.

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

What engine is going in ???

Im thinking porsche flat 6

N/A Power

Be nothing flat lol

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

Funnily enough I've been looking at doing this also.

I reckon 4 inches is just about possible, provided that:

1. you go front mount turbo and rotated inlet manifold
2. dry sump and/or tubular sub frame
3. obviously new prop shaft
4. Might need to massage the prop tunnel to make the bell housing fit
5. new drive shafts.

When looking at the car from above, the engine is in front of the centre line of the wheels, so I can definitely see this being worthwhile from a weight balance point of view.

Should ideally be combined with a front end space frame IMO, so that you can do some decent aerodynamic packaging on the intercooler, with the rad optionally moved to the boot.