Willowsdad

iTrader: (2)

Got the interior set up of my genome gauges sorted, now I'm getting prepared for the sender installation under the bonnet.
Boost - seems straight forward enough.
Oil pressure - simply screw in under the alternator.
Oil temp - I'm looking to use the plug under the intercooler, will I need an adapter?
Water temp - seems like I'm going to need to cut a T into the radiator top hose. Where's the best place to get one of these?
Any tips or advice welcome.

Stubarusti

iTrader: (4)

Hi you can get all parts required from demon tweets [Home > Motorsport > Gauges & Instrumentation > Gauge Pipes & Adaptors] or similar stockists remember if you don't use a t piece for oil pressure the oil light will be constantly on. Sorry I can't remember thread sizes but you will also need an adapter for temp sensor as well as the bung under the intercooler is bigger than the sensor.

Willowsdad

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for that. I didn't realise I'd get a light on. I'll have a look at the adapters then.

Willowsdad

iTrader: (2)

Does anybody know what size adapters I'm going to need? And is it possible to take a t-piece from under the intercooler for oil pressure and temperature? I think the top rad hose is 1.5" internal diameter so around a 40mm fitting should be ok, but I'm struggling to find the size of the adapter for the oil plug under the intercooler.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

OK, first off, you DON'T get a light if you use the tappings near the alternator for oil pressure and leave the OE switch out. You get no light whatsoever....but remember to tape up the original lead, as if it earths, you WILL get a light

Take the readings from where you originally said.

The adaptor is here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8NPT-OIL...item20e314d736

Or here if you want the T-piece and keep the OE o/p switch: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Temp-O...item418a4ddcf6



The top hose may be model specific, or age specific. Mine was 38mm i/d, classic 98 UK car.
I would STRONGLY suggest a new top hose...if it's any way old, the manipulation of removal, replacement cutting causes it to split and p*ss the coolant out...how do I know this?

On mine, I slightly lengthened the original wire to the car's coolant temp sender and removed that one to the new fitting in the top hose, the new Defi sender went in it's original place. To start with the oe gauge was just dead, but I couldn't get used to it.

When buying the top hose connector, DO get one with an earthing point, usually a screw or bolt. Mine came without and I had to make one.

HTH, Jeff.

Willowsdad

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the advice. Went ebay shopping last night and I think I got everything. My top hose is in pretty good shape, but if it does split then it's a good excuse to go silicone.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Mine looked fine from the outside when I did the job, and tbh, who checks the INSIDE?

Then, driving through twon, I get clouds of what could have been white smoke, but turned out to be steam.

A split in the top hose was squirting water under pressure onto the hot block, which instantly vapourised it......less than 50 ml water lost in total, but fekkin clouds of steam

Turn the engine off, though, and it stopped, (No pressure) so it was hard to trace...

Willowsdad

iTrader: (2)

Installed the oil pressure this morning, but can't get the gallery plug out above cylinder 3 for the oil temp. Is my only other option to use a sandwich plate?

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

There is a blanking plug on the back of the Left Hand cylinder head (passenger side)near the top which is very easy to get to - you can use that for oil temp sender.

Mick

Willowsdad

iTrader: (2)

I think that's the plug I mean. It's got an 8mm Allen key hole in it. I don't want to have to butcher it getting it out.

fat-thomas

iTrader: (4)

that plug is a bitch to get out, DONT use cheap tools as you will round it off and never remove the bung.
sandwich plate is the pikey method, the correct position to get an accurate reading is the cylinder three bung.

Willowsdad

iTrader: (2)

Looks like I'll have to persevere. My 8mm Allen key fits perfect but hasn't got the leverage, and my 8mm Allen bit for my ratchet is too loose! Might have to devise my own tool.

fat-thomas

iTrader: (4)

if you havent got the correct tools take it to a garage, for a couple of quid they will remove it.
worth it as the sandwich plate is not the correct method as this just measure oil temperature in the sump and not in the top of the engine.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

As above. Mine was done with a brand new LONG 8mm allen key, with a very large spanner hooked over it for leverage.

It went with such a bang that I thought I'd broken the Allen key....

Willowsdad

iTrader: (2)

My Allen key is perfect so maybe I'll invest in a bigger spanner for leverage. Is it a must to remove the top mount? As it seems quite accessible from the top.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

No, so long as the Allen Key shaft remains vertical.

You will probably struggle to get the adaptor and sender in without though.