Rhythmeister

Hi folks, I want to try a new knock sensor as I'm still getting a drop in power (that comes when she's hot and is only really in 4th and 5th I'd say). I changed fuel filter and she was seemingly ok for a bit but doing it again and it's not pleasant when overtaking on single carriageways!

Can someone point me in the direction of a good one that isn't too dear please? Any other advice on things to replace (MAF was swapped out but no change and existing one cleaned with contact cleaner but still doing it) would be greatly appreciated too

Bushy-N/A

iTrader: (1)

Hello mate

http://importcarparts.co.uk/parts.asp?cat=96&sub=97

Try the above link, as I got my replacement knock sensor from them for £50 posted and it was an OEM part.

Hope you get it sorted.

Rhythmeister

Cheers fella! Would there be a massive difference in quality between a genuine part and a fleabay £5 special though?

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

The knock sensor will detect knock and warn you by flashing the Check engine light. It should also put the car in limp mode. Buy a cheap one that doesn't work and you wont notice until you get knock your engine just kills itself....

Spend £50 now or potentially £2000 later. As sensors go the Knock is one of the cheapest (about £50-60 I think). ICV cost £260+ cam and crank £100+ each etc so I would just go for a new OE one and be safe.

Rhythmeister

I'm not getting a CEL or limp mode, just a seemingly random drop in power which doesn't engage the dump valve if that makes any sense

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

Do you have a boost gauge fitted? If not it may give you an idea as to what is happening.

Rhythmeister

I have a gauge BUT need some vacuum hose and a T-piece still and some length of pipe to join the hose to the rear of the gauge!

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

If you have a vta dump valve bin it there rubbish and caused me problems,put the stock one back on. Also give your boost solenoid a clean,could be that? Have you read the ecu for error logs?

Davec30

iTrader: (2)

Could be your coil pack. That was my problem and a new (second hand!) coil pack fixed the it.

maca1983

iTrader: (3)

Knock sensor would not create this problem

when were the spark plugs last changed??

Rhythmeister

I tried that and no joy, why would it be a simple fix that takes 30 secs?

Rhythmeister

Quote:

Originally Posted by maca1983

Knock sensor would not create this problem

when were the spark plugs last changed??

Funnily enough, I HAD been thinking that it only happens when the engine is hot and the seller "serviced" her before I bought her and did indeed change the plugs. I'm guessing they're not set to the correct gap and have decent ones on the way with a gap setting tool waiting for them actually! NGK PFR7Bs are winging their way to me as I type

Rhythmeister

I THINK I have an aftermarket TVA dump valve indeed but don't have an original one I get no CEL flashes on the dash but I suppose I could check for stored codes and reset the ECU than try to get the problem again so I'm not getting old codes

maca1983

iTrader: (3)

Cool! they should be preset for the gap but no harm in checking, hope that's all it is

Rhythmeister

Oh, I've gapped them to 0.75mm but what would be best for a 247bhp (pre bellmouth downpipe) turbo 2000?

maca1983

iTrader: (3)

0.8mm is the gap required but they should be pre-set

Rhythmeister

I checked and one was WAY out. I shall take no chances with these decent plugs

Oh, someone else suggested 0.7mm on the following thread! https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-plug-gap.html

maca1983

iTrader: (3)

There you go then fella, get it done

Rhythmeister

STILL doing the lumpy boost when warm although she's feeling livelier around 5k rpm or so.