gazney101

iTrader: (5)

Ive been thinking of trying out this idea, doing away with my aircon pump and fitting a 21hp brushless motor in its place and fitting 48v worth of boost capacitors in the boot and have them charge from the brake light circuit, not quite sure how it could be linked up to the throttle pedal though.

Maybe its worth while, maybe not, i just fancy a bit of messing so any input or good ideas welcome.

I havent drawn any plans up or anything yet just thinking out loud so to speak.

Any thoughts?

neil-h

Well the first problem that I can see is how are you going to get drive back from the motor? As i'm not sure the auxilliary belt would work as its not toothed.

Also, how do you intend to charge the capacitors? I'm assuming you intend to connect 4 in series to get the 48V across the stack, so the charging/discharging circuit would have to be a bit clever.

Fat Boy

Was this one of your other ideas?

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/ukne...ks-at-sea.html

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

Pmsl, its like youve seen me on before

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

I was hoping the aux belt would be enough, as for the charging i havent given it enough thought yet, any ideas how to make it work?

rb5 stu

Oh dear.

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

Indeed !

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

Even if you could get it all to work... The motor will just spin and without getting any traction on the belt. You would be twisting on the crank pulley if you could get traction and it's not designed for that. It's a bad idea all around to be honest. Generally if nobody else has done it then its for a good reason.

It's like those electric fan induction kits.

neil-h

Agreed. There are ways and means of doing it but they are time consuming/expensive.

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

I imagine it could get expensive but so is everything else ive done, even if it takes a few years to collect the bits then so be it, probably wont even work knowing my luck, or the car will catch fire lol.

time for some research me finks

neil-h

Well as has already been said, your original plan wouldn't work on multiple levels. You could remove the prop shaft and drive the rear diff with the motor but then you'd be stuck with fwd most of the time.

The other option would be to couple the motor to the crank but that would take a huge amount of engineering work, including potentially making a new crank with an input shaft on the front.

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

So the electric motor will spin at a certain speed... What about when the petrol power is going less then that speed and you don't want to go faster? Or when the petrol engine exceeds the speed of the electric motor? You would need the electric motor to change its output depending on the RPM of the engine.... Then you need to have a drive belt system strong enough. If this drive belt fails it may take out your cambelt belt etc. The end of the crank shaft is also not designed to have power put through it... Plus the amount of electricity you would need will probably put a massive strain on the cars electrical system.

How about gaining the few horse power you may gain if this works with a "normal" mod? Cheaper, Far less risk of wasting money and ruining your engine. Hell if you want to risk your engine for a few more BHP just get Nitrous.

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

I dont fancy fwd much when my car is going to be making around 550hp from the engine and just spent a fortune building it so a custom crank is off the cards, i see no reason why a custom aux pully to take a stronger drive belt wouldnt work. As for the crank ends not being designed for it this is true but the other end will transfer 550hp down the gearbox input shaft and take brutal launches at 8000rpm so i guestimate a 20hp electric motor shouldnt snap the end off, im no physicist of course im just guessing

Blue by You

iTrader: (23)

Have you considered how the 'gearing' ratio of you proposed pulley is going to work? (or not)!

RedScoob

I think OP has kinda underestimated how much engineering goes into these systems...
It's not the sort of thing you can replicate with a Maplins catalogue and an old tumble dryer.

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

hi, yes when the boost caps are charged and the motor is spinning but the engine rpm is low the motor would be controlled via an electronic speed controller something like you find in r/c cars which would need to be in sync with the relative position of the accelerator pedal.
the charging of the boost caps would only happen when braking, the motor would also not be permanently driven by the engine as an electromagnet clutch type pully similar to the one on the air con would only engage when the motor engages so minimal mechanical drag.

As for normal mods, i think im just about as far as i can go, i got rotated billet gt3076r on built 2.0cdb all cosworth internals, jdm heads, front mount, rcm this n that and just on running it all in at the minute.

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

I have given it a little thought, at first i was thinking of some sort of cvt trans setup but it would be very time consuming seting up roller weights.

And thats as far as i thought into it tbh

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

hmmm Tumble dryer eh, il make a note of that in my dennis the menice note book.

Im aware these are no walk in the park though mate, neither are jet engines but i made one









And put it in this





we got it going when it was in the vice but it refused to start in the mini bike

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

At 500bhp + you won't feel an extra 20. Its just such a waste of time and money. If you have enough money to risk ruining your engine then just pay a tuning company to give you more power. If you don't have enough money to risk it then I wouldn't risk it. 20bhp will probably only offset the extra weight and the extra load on the alternator!

The rear of the crank shaft is secured to the flywheel with 8 bolts.

The front pulley is held by a small woodruff key.

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

Youre probably right, but theres no fun in doing that

Blue by You

iTrader: (23)

Bottom line?
If it was that simple it would already have been done a long time ago.

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

So you are willing to put all this effort and money into something which most people think isn't going to work and after all the hard work if by some chance it does function you won't even notice it?

Fair enough....

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

Charge from the brake light circuit? It's probably got a 10 amp fuse, so the maximum amount of power you could possibly extract from that circuit without blowing the fuse is 140ish watts. This is about 0.2 hp.

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

I was thinking more along the lines of using the live from the brake lights to power a solenoid which would make up the charge connection between the boost caps and the power source

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

You dont think il notice the extra torque before turbo?

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

How much torque and we talking about?

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

I dont have any exact figures because i havent studied any motors but 40lbs ft wouldnt be far away

neil-h

So what's your plan for getting 48V from a 12V system?

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

Some kind of dc-dc inverter would be used, but quite complicated for a wood butcher like me so it would take some working out.

Im open to suggestions

neil-h

Yeah that could work but tbh by far the most effective way of doing it would be to use a battery for your energy storage, rather than the caps. That way you can store a worthwhile amount of energy.

That however still leaves you with the issue of getting drive back from the motor to the cars drive train (using the auxilliary drive system really won't work).