kers system
Ive been thinking of trying out this idea, doing away with my aircon pump and fitting a 21hp brushless motor in its place and fitting 48v worth of boost capacitors in the boot and have them charge from the brake light circuit, not quite sure how it could be linked up to the throttle pedal though.
Maybe its worth while, maybe not, i just fancy a bit of messing so any input or good ideas welcome. I havent drawn any plans up or anything yet just thinking out loud so to speak. Any thoughts? |
Well the first problem that I can see is how are you going to get drive back from the motor? As i'm not sure the auxilliary belt would work as its not toothed.
Also, how do you intend to charge the capacitors? I'm assuming you intend to connect 4 in series to get the 48V across the stack, so the charging/discharging circuit would have to be a bit clever. |
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Pmsl, its like youve seen me on before
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Originally Posted by neil-h
(Post 11441339)
Well the first problem that I can see is how are you going to get drive back from the motor? As i'm not sure the auxilliary belt would work as its not toothed.
Also, how do you intend to charge the capacitors? I'm assuming you intend to connect 4 in series to get the 48V across the stack, so the charging/discharging circuit would have to be a bit clever. |
Oh dear.
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Originally Posted by rb5 stu
(Post 11441417)
Oh dear.
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Even if you could get it all to work... The motor will just spin and without getting any traction on the belt. You would be twisting on the crank pulley if you could get traction and it's not designed for that. It's a bad idea all around to be honest. Generally if nobody else has done it then its for a good reason.
It's like those electric fan induction kits. |
Originally Posted by FMJ
(Post 11441454)
Even if you could get it all to work... The motor will just spin and without getting any traction on the belt. You would be twisting on the crank pulley if you could get traction and it's not designed for that. It's a bad idea all around to be honest. Generally if nobody else has done it then its for a good reason.
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I imagine it could get expensive but so is everything else ive done, even if it takes a few years to collect the bits then so be it, probably wont even work knowing my luck, or the car will catch fire lol.
time for some research me finks |
Well as has already been said, your original plan wouldn't work on multiple levels. You could remove the prop shaft and drive the rear diff with the motor but then you'd be stuck with fwd most of the time.
The other option would be to couple the motor to the crank but that would take a huge amount of engineering work, including potentially making a new crank with an input shaft on the front. |
Originally Posted by gazney101
(Post 11441639)
I imagine it could get expensive but so is everything else ive done, even if it takes a few years to collect the bits then so be it, probably wont even work knowing my luck, or the car will catch fire lol.
time for some research me finks How about gaining the few horse power you may gain if this works with a "normal" mod? Cheaper, Far less risk of wasting money and ruining your engine. Hell if you want to risk your engine for a few more BHP just get Nitrous. |
Originally Posted by neil-h
(Post 11441672)
Well as has already been said, your original plan wouldn't work on multiple levels. You could remove the prop shaft and drive the rear diff with the motor but then you'd be stuck with fwd most of the time.
The other option would be to couple the motor to the crank but that would take a huge amount of engineering work, including potentially making a new crank with an input shaft on the front. |
Have you considered how the 'gearing' ratio of you proposed pulley is going to work? (or not)!
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I think OP has kinda underestimated how much engineering goes into these systems...
It's not the sort of thing you can replicate with a Maplins catalogue and an old tumble dryer. |
Originally Posted by FMJ
(Post 11441677)
So the electric motor will spin at a certain speed... What about when the petrol power is going less then that speed and you don't want to go faster? Or when the petrol engine exceeds the speed of the electric motor? You would need the electric motor to change its output depending on the RPM of the engine.... Then you need to have a drive belt system strong enough. If this drive belt fails it may take out your cambelt belt etc. The end of the crank shaft is also not designed to have power put through it... Plus the amount of electricity you would need will probably put a massive strain on the cars electrical system. How about gaining the few horse power you may gain if this works with a "normal" mod? Cheaper, Far less risk of wasting money and ruining your engine. Hell if you want to risk your engine for a few more BHP just get Nitrous. the charging of the boost caps would only happen when braking, the motor would also not be permanently driven by the engine as an electromagnet clutch type pully similar to the one on the air con would only engage when the motor engages so minimal mechanical drag. As for normal mods, i think im just about as far as i can go, i got rotated billet gt3076r on built 2.0cdb all cosworth internals, jdm heads, front mount, rcm this n that and just on running it all in at the minute. |
Originally Posted by Blue by You
(Post 11441712)
Have you considered how the 'gearing' ratio of you proposed pulley is going to work? (or not)!
And thats as far as i thought into it tbh |
3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by RedScoob
(Post 11441717)
I think OP has kinda underestimated how much engineering goes into these systems...
It's not the sort of thing you can replicate with a Maplins catalogue and an old tumble dryer. Im aware these are no walk in the park though mate, neither are jet engines but i made one Attachment 16595 Attachment 16596 And put it in this Attachment 16597 we got it going when it was in the vice but it refused to start in the mini bike |
At 500bhp + you won't feel an extra 20. Its just such a waste of time and money. If you have enough money to risk ruining your engine then just pay a tuning company to give you more power. If you don't have enough money to risk it then I wouldn't risk it. 20bhp will probably only offset the extra weight and the extra load on the alternator!
The rear of the crank shaft is secured to the flywheel with 8 bolts. The front pulley is held by a small woodruff key. |
Originally Posted by FMJ
(Post 11441758)
At 500bhp + you won't feel an extra 20. Its just such a waste of time and money. If you have enough money to risk ruining your engine then just pay a tuning company to give you more power. If you don't have enough money to risk it then I wouldn't risk it. 20bhp will probably only offset the extra weight and the extra load on the alternator!
The rear of the crank shaft is secured to the flywheel with 8 bolts. The front pulley is held by a small woodruff key. |
Bottom line?
If it was that simple it would already have been done a long time ago. |
Originally Posted by gazney101
(Post 11441766)
Youre probably right, but theres no fun in doing that
Fair enough.... :) |
Originally Posted by gazney101
(Post 11441327)
have them charge from the brake light circuit
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Originally Posted by Henrik
(Post 11441803)
Charge from the brake light circuit? It's probably got a 10 amp fuse, so the maximum amount of power you could possibly extract from that circuit without blowing the fuse is 140ish watts. This is about 0.2 hp. |
Originally Posted by FMJ
(Post 11441795)
So you are willing to put all this effort and money into something which most people think isn't going to work and after all the hard work if by some chance it does function you won't even notice it? Fair enough.... :) |
Originally Posted by gazney101
(Post 11441831)
You dont think il notice the extra torque before turbo?
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Originally Posted by FMJ
(Post 11441886)
How much torque and we talking about? |
So what's your plan for getting 48V from a 12V system?
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Originally Posted by neil-h
(Post 11442118)
So what's your plan for getting 48V from a 12V system?
Im open to suggestions |
Yeah that could work but tbh by far the most effective way of doing it would be to use a battery for your energy storage, rather than the caps. That way you can store a worthwhile amount of energy.
That however still leaves you with the issue of getting drive back from the motor to the cars drive train (using the auxilliary drive system really won't work). |
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