I have got a classic Subaru Impreza uk2000 which I believe has the prodrive ecu upgrade from new. (I am going to look at ecu later to search for evidence). I have boost gauge and car is currently boosting to around 15psi. I want to increase the boost slightly. Can I just put a inline manual boost controller and the ecu upgrade will allow more boost? Also what's a safe psi to run on the standard turbo?

 

My advice is use the search facility, there is plenty of info regarding advantages/disadvantages of using manual boost controllers on classic ecu' s going back well over 10yrs

Most will say today it's a big no no and you must only remap bla bla which is a load of crap imo hence use search and form your own opinion

My99 std uk ecu can run increased boost of 1.2bar (from 0.9bar) without issue...The ecu runs very rich as std

You don't mention what year your car is which will determine what can/can't be done

 

You might well get away with running a MBC without a remap but you've got to ask yourself is it worth the risk?
Yes as standard the map is quiet rich.
Imo it will be the timing that will kill the engine,you will be hitting higher engine loads in lower revs when upping boost,this will make your timing tables out and big risk of detonation.
Choice is yours,like Gambit says,have a search on the subject as there are lots of opinions on this.
Buy a knock detection device and AFR gauge if you intend on tricking the ECU with a MBC would be my advice.

 

My car is mapped to 1.3 bar, I take the pill out for 0.9 bar and take the vac hose off the actuator for 1.5 bar.

 

 

Joys of having a spare engine sat in your bedroom.

 

I have the following question, in an ECU of a WRX 99 (MY99) By placing an MBC by logic one cancels the original Boost control solenoid of the vehicle, therefore I understand that the ECU stops receiving the information of the working pressure, Now as for the detection of "Knock" how it behaves. The ecu has the ability to detect even the knock (I suppose) but what action it will take is not being able to decrease the BOOST (because we have already disconnected that part of course) it may be delaying the advance of the ignition, or what emergency methods the ecu will take to try to make up for this situation?

I take advantage of this thread to consult since I have the same Prodrive ECU, which they consulted here, and I am interested in placing an MBC too but I want to study the pros and cons of doing this. I know it is risky but knowing and taking the necessary precautions may be something viable.