JeffT

iTrader: (1)

Looks like I need new clutch for my 2001 UK WRX Wagon - starting to slip.
I'm pretty handy with the spanners (do all my servicing inc timing belts) - is it a DIY job? Could probably save 300+ notes. Got the workshop CD's and it looks not bad apart from one or two "special" tools. Would be on my drive on axle stands over a 2 day weekend. Is it practical or best leave to garage?
Any advise / tips gratefully received.
Cheers

Eternal Rage

iTrader: (7)

I did mine myself on my Legacy, but it wasn't that easy if im honest.
Might be slightly easier on a Impreza being single turbo, but not tried, so wouldnt know.

Downpipes, Rear Diff, Propshaft, Driveshafts, Intercooler etc all had to come off.
It is all bolt off, bolt on stuff, but just need to be organised and remember what goes where.

Only thing of caution i would say is to make sure you undo the Clutch Fork Pin before you try and prise the gearbox off, otherwise it will jam and you are buggered. Also, i cannot emphasise enough how heavy an Impreza/Legacy gearbox actually is until you are underneath the car trying to manoeuvre it in/out of place, very very heavy!

JeffT

iTrader: (1)

Thanks - I'll bear that in mind. Just a bit confused - you don't really need to remove rear diff do you?
Did the clutch on my 1975 Celica some years ago - me and a pal. Split the gearbox off and I had it on my chest laid on my back on the garage floor and had to edge out from underneath the car - bloody heavy. Ah to be young, skint and full of "looks easy enough" positive (whats health and safety) attitude

Myles

iTrader: (40)

Just check if it is the boost control solenoid causing a bit of what feels like clutch slip when foot flat in 4th and 5th. It might need cleaning out. I have the same symptoms as clutch slip but it is the boost solenoid.

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

There are two preferred methods of doing this.

The hard way is to jack the car and remove the gearbox on the drive. Not recommended as the gearbox is sodding heavy.
https://www.scoobynet.com/drivetrain...a-gearbox.html

The easy way is to borrow an engine hoist for the weekend and hoik out the engine.
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...e-removal.html

Both methods take about the same amount of time as most of the disconnections are common ie intercooler out, starter out, clutch pin out, splitting the engine from the box.

Have changed two Impreza engines and two gearboxes so all is IMHO of course.

chiroman

iTrader: (1)

I'm replacing clutch in WR1 in my garage but have no time limit, bought a Draper Transmission jack from justoffbase.co.uk fro £76.68 del. Have so far removed existing clutch and flywheel. I wouldn't consider doing this job without this as gbox weighs around 100kg. I made up a timber block which is shaped to fit underside of gbox and vee in jack and all very stable and easy to manoeuvre.
Aztec Performance best price for exedy clutch kit. You will need a clutch alignment tool for reassembly and flywheel may need replacing or skimming, mines being skimmed as I write for about £65.

The gbox is difficult to separate from engine but I made up an adjustable strap from the bulkhead to the top of engine bellhousing which stops engine dropping forward and allowed me to jack up the gbox against this and so force the separation of bellhousing with the help of 2ft jemmy.

Also starter motor may corroded inplace. You need a really good 10mm allen key and a bar to undo the 20mm bung covering the release fork pivot.

The turbo heat shield bolts may be corroded and tight and suggest using 6sided hex sockets with ends ground off for max grip.

I believe your drive shafts will need roll pins driving out to allow separation.

I'm using Fuchs Titan semi synth oil 75w-90 which cost £26.83 for 5litres in Luton

And you do get fitter although knackered.

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

Like I said, lot easier to take engine out

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

I remember being like that! I still wouldn't dream of taking it to a garage for general servicing but changing a 6-speed clutch is something else! For the sake of around 300 quid labour, I'd rather get someone with all the equipment and experience to do it, although I'd like to be there to help (hinder?)

JohnD

chiroman

iTrader: (1)

I got a few quotes before embarking on the clutch change.
Subaru dealer Slip End inc flywheel skim £1084,
API inc uprated/modified clutch and lightened flywheel £978.00,
Subaru4you inc flywheel skim £760.00,
Local specialist to fit (7.5hrs) if I supply clutch kit £450.00
Cost of all parts inc Draper jack £460.00
Cost of all parts w/o Draper jack £383.32
Draper jack can be sold on for say £50.00
I'm only doing this as have the time and car not being used every day.

Mike

JeffT

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the input-its panning out as I suspected. Relatively straight forward but really need correct equipment. Plus it's my daily driver. Best quote so far £629 all in but it's a garage I don't know. I'm fussy about who messes with my motor which is why I try and do everything I can myself. I even take wheels off and drop them in rather then let tyre "specialists" bugger wheel nuts or over tighten.
Will get my trusted local garage to quote. One question though - how would I (and they) know if flywheel needs skimming? Is it obvious (like brake discs) if there is excessive scoring on surface?

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

It's dead obvious, and chances are that as your clutch is already slipping then it will probably need skimming.

But this depends on how bad the cracking is. If it is too bad then the flywheel will need replacing.

Eternal Rage

iTrader: (7)

take the opportunity to fit a lightweight flywheel! You know it makes sense!

chiroman

iTrader: (1)

If your priority is to get the job done in two days on your driveway you need to be lucky. The weather is unpredictable and your flywheel which may well need skimming which will increase the time. To get machining done even if car is with a dealer will take minimum one day could be several. To keep cost & down time to minimum you could get a clutch from someone like Aztec on here and also source a new flywheel/spigot bearing which will speed up job. If really lucky just clean up face of existing flywheel. If working outside this time of year unless you're on nightshift you only have weekends for daylight.

This is a link to pics I took which may help, mine is 6speed BTW. http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/f...change%202011/

MysteryMachin3

iTrader: (2)

I have similar symptoms, where is the boost solenoid ? How do I clean it ?

budd

iTrader: (5)

I did mine nearly a year ago and it's a pretty straightfoward job, just remember the pivot arm (as mentioned above) the box won't come off if you forget to remove this (I know I forgot it!!) the other thing that differs from most clutches is that it is a pull rather than push type, the release bearing clips to the cover plate and pulls it rather than just resting against it and pushing which is more usual.
The other thing to bear in mind (and this as also been mentioned) is the G/B is b****y heavy it's not a problem removing it but getting it back in is another matter, I tried on my own!!! not a chance, I couldn't enlist any help at the time so I pulled the engine and did it that way, but doing it on axle even with to or three people on it, it would be a struggle, if your on the 4 poster it would be a doddle.
If I was doing it again I'd deffo pull the engine, it's one of the easiest I've ever removed and makes the whole job much easier.
By way of comparison (and to make mere mortals like me feel bad) I watched the lads form X-spec racing swop the box on there race car at Mallory in the lunch break between races, approx 90mins from getting the car into the pits to lining up on the grid with the box replaced, it took me 2 days!!!

andy-m

iTrader: (1)

did mine on the side of the road with 2 axle stands and 2 trolley jacks.
took me 2 weekends as i've never done it on an impreza before so a lot of it i was working out as i went along.
now that i have done it, I know i can do it in one weekend, but thats only because ive done it already and learned the troublesome areas and sequence of work.
you deffo need 2 people for the job.
and a new back after.
and a bleep machine for all the swearing.
unless i am forced to for some reason, I will not do it again and will instead pay a garage !

budd

iTrader: (5)

proper home DIY job, axle stands and trolley jacks, world class swearing. bloody knuckles, lost tools etc etc, at the time it's a royal pain but once the job is completed the sense of satisfaction is immense, surely worth all the tribulations and I think it brings you closer to your car, a better understanding of how it works, getting more involved with it then just driving it and while it’s nice to just tell a garage to ‘deal with it’ I think it’s more rewarding to ‘do it yourself’, and in this case the money saved on labour could go toward a lightweight flywheel,

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

Engine out and back in with lots of coffee breaks/chats with the neighbours = 7 pleasant hours on the drive.

Gearbox out and back in have done in 7 hours of hard graft on four poster. Reckon I can do it in 4 on a two poster. Wouldn't even consider it on the drive.....

JeffT

iTrader: (1)

Fair points from all - going to get garage to do it.
One last point - read somewhere about rear crankshaft seal and how it's best to replace at same time as doing clutch. Is it easy to fit? I'll buy one and get them to fit it if so.

pigSTi

iTrader: (5)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOKKR...C735E10CCA1DAD

JeffT

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Foz - I'd already looked at this. It's pretty informative and makes me feel like doing it myself again - time, weather and lack of equipment pulling me the other way though. Getting too old for it too if I'm honest.

pigSTi

iTrader: (5)

I know what you mean, I often find myself lusting for the space to do these things. Outside on a road is just no good - need double garage...and one of those lifts, what a neat toy that would make! I could do loads of stuff!

djandyg

iTrader: (2)

iv considered getting one of those draper transmission jacks - anyone know what they are like to do on driveway if you had one of those plus an extra pair of hands?

Also - working in a garage i do plenty clutches regularly, but very rarely see the need for the to be skimmed or replaced - why do people seem to recommend it so much on a scooby? Unless its scored up from rivets on friction disc, or excessively burnt i dont really see the need?

JeffT

iTrader: (1)

Thats what I'm hoping - mine only just started to slip and only if I abuse it so
been taking it real easy last few days.

Any comments regarding rear crakshaft seal?

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

Rear crank seal is cheap and dead easy to replace. Ditto pilot bearing. Highly recommend replacing both whilst it's all apart.

JeffT

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for that - have ordered crankshaft seal but was not aware of pilot bearing. Now I've read up on them no point not fitting one at same time. Take it centre hole of flywheel will be same diameter on all types flywheel? Standard O.E, - lightweight etc etc

djandyg

iTrader: (2)

yeh i reckon Most aftermarket flywheels come with a new pilot bearing with them though tbh

scott181

there is a place in tonbrige wells they did my one £700 all in and done same day all they do is scoobys. very good