uk300_stooby

Whilst driving on saturday my bug decided it didn't want a 2nd gear anymore, even tho i do

Dont want to sound like a tight **** but if i can do it myself then id rather do than than pay someone. Has anyone had a go at it themselves ?
If so, was it a pig or did it go ok. Anything i need to watch out for or should i just bite the bullet and pay someone and if so how much should i expect to pay.
Any help would be much appreciated.

stu

dooby-do

iTrader: (2)

ok not sure if this is for all subarus im looking at changing my 95 wrx turbo import jdm gearbox i found this in another post is there anything else i would need to no...also hope the guy does not mind me copying and pasteing his information...
Jack car up very high and level, especially if you are taking the box right away from the car.
Drain oil, remove propshaft centre bearing and pull out of box.
Remove d/p to gearbox bolts (2 of them). Drift out the roll pins that hold the gear shift linkage to the box selector shaft
Remove TMIC, starter motor, clutch slave cylinder and all wires off the box to various parts of the engine bay.
Just by the starter motor location you must find a 20mm dia cover screw with a hex socket in it and unscrew/remove it.
Find a 6mm threaded bolt, about 50mm long. Screw it into the end of the clutch arm pivot shaft exposed when you removed the above cover. Pull (hard maybe) on the bolt and the lond shaft will pull through abd the clutch arm will go loose.
Undo all 4 bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine. Nothing will move as the 2 dowels that locate the part together will be corroded so tight you will think it is all welded together. Apply WD40 on the dowels.
You need to pull the front driveshafts out now. Remove the lower ball joints on each side of the front suspension, surprisingly easy! Get to the CV joint on the shaft both sides and drift out the scroll pins (very tight). Pull each hub assembly hard and the shaft will pull out of the box no probs.
That's the EASY bit done

You MUST have a proper or very very good jack to take the weight of the transmission, it is seriously heavy. Remove the gearbox cross member after placing the support under the box, very close to the bell housing; you have to split the bell housing off the engine by brute force, cursing, and any means you can.
Once free (mine first took 2 whole hours) the box will slide back about 80mm to freedom and will try to fall off the jack!
I bought a Draper transmission jack, utterly invaluable.

Removal is not the reverse of the above.

You need to free the clutch thrust bearing off the clip in the clutch cover. Removed, place the bearing onto the gearbox input shaft sleeve, thread the clutch release arm onto it, and feed in the pivot pin (use coppa slip on re assy) and the cover to finish it off.
When the box is back on and bolted tight, grab the exposed clutch arm where the cylinder goes and push it very hard towards the baulkhead so you feel and hear a click and the lever feels positioned in place. This bit is MOST important to get right or you will have to do this all over again.

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

Yep, that's how it's done.

Hardest part can be splitting the engine from the transmission. One of mine was so tight I could have sworn that it was still bolted together. Took a six foot prybar and a lot of courage to prise them apart. Went with such a bang I was convinced I had broken something.

Took me 7 hours and a lot of heaving. Without a transmission jack it is a 3 man job to be safe, 2 under and 1 above on the refit as it is so s0dding heavy.

Check the dowels on the replacement gearbox. It don't fit very well if there are dowels in the gearbox AND in the engine LOL Took a lot of grunting before we noticed that one.

Take your time, be safe and good luck. Never want to do one again.

sti-chris

i think a 6 speed box is 100kg . could be wrong but not by much, however i know its a dam heavy lift as my clutch and flywheel were recently changed.

took some heaving and a big bar to prise the box off the engine.

madmooro

so i been told they take engine out to change clutch as its easier .as i say so i been told .not seen or heard of it other than second hand info

good luck

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

Yep, if I was just changing the clutch I would engine out in preference. I have changed an engine in the past and I reckon around 8 hours on your own, a lot easier and safer.

the_msp

How is the clutch thrust bearing removed?

uk300_stooby

Cheers for all the advice peeps. Gonna give it a bash saturday. Fingers crossed it should go ok,. got a mate whos a mechanic so hes gonna lend a hand

CHEERS, STU

dabow

iTrader: (19)

any thing about putting the shafts back in on the rear diff?

sorry for the thread hi jack...

scooby-wrx

I have a 96 Version 3 STI RA and my box suddenly started jumping out of 4th so I also removed mine myself... Took a while, but I'm glad I did it. At least I know it was done properly and I didn't break a thing!

Drained the oil.




Removed everything on top while draining, IC, BOV, Starter motor, down pipe etc...




Had to loosen the (camber bolt) from the shocks to give me enough play to remove the CV's. Also removed the driveshaft at this stage.



You need two people to get the box off... or just use an old tire to prevent damage to the housing.







All gears still perfect (thank goodness!) The reason mine was jumping out of 4th seemed to be the Synchro hub. I'm currently replacing all Synchro's, hub, bearings, selectors etc... etc... basically everything other than the gears.







Good luck, hope it all goes well

chrisUK300

iTrader: (10)

Issue 9 of Total Impreza magazine (latest issue) has a guide to removing a gearbox

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

Well done but wait till you try to refit it. Has the uncanny knack of suddenly becoming twice as heavy. Good luck

L55 REP

iTrader: (1)

took mine out today not looking forward to puting the replacement in tomorrow

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

Just had an interesting chat with a chap who works for a local performance car specialist. Reckons he can change an Impreza gearbox in 20 minutes..... PMSL

Changed tack a bit when I mentioned that I want mine out again and worked out that the labour would be £30. Funnily enough he didn't want the job all of a sudden....***

greekpeterfromlondon

iTrader: (2)

Mine took me about 3 h to drop the box change the clutch and put the box back in but i used the ramp at work.

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

Replaced my gearbox (for the second time) yesterday. How did you get on Scooby WRX and Newport White Scooby?

Greekpeterfromlondon you must be a super mechanic, no way can I do it in 3 hours on my own. Having done it twice reckon I could do it in 4 hours with a helper, still reckon 6 to 7 hours on your own is a good time, even with ramps and tranny jack.

Jamz_

iTrader: (12)

Do you have to use one of these? Take it you can get one from B&Q or where ever?

spurs.thfc

is this the same process for a 2001 bugeye gearbox?
thanks

Splitpin

Pretty much. It looks a little different under there due to the extra underguards and subframe on the bugeye but other than that, all the above applies.

uk300bake

Do I need to completely remove the gearbox if I just want to do my clutch and flywheel?
Anyone got pics of a bugeye removal pls.
Cheers
Simon

Splitpin

Yes. Well, it's either box out or engine out, take your pick. Box is usually less hassle and requires less in the way of big expensive tools.

uk300bake

Cheers Splitpin.
Anyone got a dummies guide for a bugeye clutch change and flywheel off?
I had a 5 paddle clutch fitted a while ago and its slipping, got to be my flywheel I think as the clutch couldnt have worn out that quick.

Jas Lad

Guys sorry to thread dredge, but I noticed on the notes above they mentioned removing the bearing and fitting to the box before sliding back on, other guides don't, jus say slide box on?

Having trouble getting the box any further than half way down the dowels?