Dizzy

As per topic title I have now convinced myself to get a Dawes (as noones engine has grenaded yet ) but I wanted to check insurance costs first (as thats what stopped me gettin a new ecu ).

I quoted them about 10bhp.. does that sound reasonable?

They quoted me an extra 45 quid (25 of which is administration ) so I'm going to go for it

[- Edited to say to insurance that it more to fix potential overboost and smooths the boost curve than increases power.-]

[Edited by Dizzy - 3/19/2002 9:51:39 AM]

john banks

Up to 10% might be more realistic.

Dizzy

that much... I recon I'm running around 220 now (I'd hope) so thats going to be 20-25 bhp?

MY96 + Blitz induction + SS DP + SS BB.
I'll rephone my insurance company then (or should I?)
cheers john.

john banks

I don't know about the MY96, but on the MY99/00 I think you would be safer saying up to 10% increase - it is substantially quicker.

Depends on the boost you run, but even strangled by the low fuel cut on the non-PPP cars, it seems to be of slightly less effectiveness in the midrange, and slightly more at the top end than a PPP car which is 20% mid 10% top (the latter being the figure the insurers are interested in). It can typically hold 2+ PSI more at peak power than standard. Mine is still holding 16 PSI at 5500 RPM - the standard car doesn't usually get more than 14 even in the midrange.

But since you already have a downpipe the incremental increase you may be able to argue is under 10%. But 10 BHP is a bit tricky to believe.

OTOH, just find a car with a Dawes on a rolling road run and pick the lowest one you can find as an example - ie not PE! Try PS or Star results for some low numbers and compare that with standard cars which get over 230 bhp at PE, and some with decats that are nearer 250 then you could argue it is 10bhp if you need rolling road "proof". Depends on how you want to play it. See what a few others think I would say.

[Edited by john banks - 3/19/2002 11:21:07 AM]

Chris.Palmer

As an indicator on a My96 you're problably running approx 0.7 bar standard - with the Dawes the most you could possibly raise it too to is 1 bar (although this may be too close to fuel cut for safety) - at 1.05 bar you get Fuel Cut. Also the standard MAP Sensor is not capabable of anything above 1.05 bar.

Of cause with the Dawes you can set it up with no increase in BHP at all - just set it to standard boost & take advantage of the improved spool up.

Chris

Chris.Palmer

Removed double post!

[Edited by Chris.Palmer - 3/19/2002 11:35:13 AM]

Dizzy

ooo didn't know that I would have plugged in my Boost gauge n gone I'm not gettin enough boost
Thanks Chris.

Do you mean MAP or MAF?

john banks

Setting the Dawes to standard boost should hold more boost up top = more power though as the boost curve will be flatter rather than tapering as much?

Certainly set it to 14 PSI on a MY99/00 and it is brisker than standard at the top end.

Chris.Palmer

Dizzy - MAP on My96 misreads above 1.05 bar hence using a FCD is not recommended on these cars.

1.05 bar is where fuel cut comes in - most boost guages under read by as much as 0.5 bar - also need to take into account colder weather when boost will be higher with an MBC.

To be on the safe side I wouldn't recommend more than 0.95 bar.

PS = John's got a good point there - with Dawes Peak & Held very similar. Whereas standard EBC tails boost down at top of rev range (although I believe this is far worse on the TD04 cars than our TD05 cars).

Chris


[Edited by Chris.Palmer - 3/19/2002 1:13:37 PM]

Dizzy

I have read most of the dawes threads n the "FAQ" but from what you just said would you recomend taking it to a rolling road to set it up then?

Chris.Palmer

If you're sensible you can do it yourself - alot of people have with no problems. Just know the limitations of your car & gauge & check your fuelling in all gears (set your Dawes up in 5th).

I set mine up myself - with just a Boost Gauge & AFR Meter.

I am however taking mine to a rolling Road :

a) Because I want some comparisons with & without Dawes etc.
b) Because I would like to know exactly how accurate my Boost & AFR Gauges are.
c) To fully test everything under all conditions a Rolling Road is handy - & at least you should leave feeling fairly confident that everthing is safe.

[Edited to add]

If you over cook the Dawes you will just get fuel cut - which is fine if you are setting up the car in safe conditions & are expecting it.

What I would'nt want to do is crank the Dawes up to max (ie just below fuel cut) on a fine day. Then - on a cold day half through an overtake unexpetedly hit cut

Just be conservative.


[Edited by Chris.Palmer - 3/19/2002 1:57:27 PM]