Driveshaft boot change How 2?!?
#1
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Driveshaft boot change How 2?!?
I need to change the front off side inner and outer driveshaft boot on my 94 classic wrx wagon, is there anything I should watch out for and any bits of advice I should take into account.
I'll be doing the job at my mates garage with hydraulic ramp and a full compliment of tools. I've got a half assed workshop manual that I downloaded with bits missing, there is a guide for removing the rear d/s but the front one isnt there!!
Any tips will be welcome
I'll be doing the job at my mates garage with hydraulic ramp and a full compliment of tools. I've got a half assed workshop manual that I downloaded with bits missing, there is a guide for removing the rear d/s but the front one isnt there!!
Any tips will be welcome
#2
Straightforward job, especially with your facillities:
Get car on ramp, with suspension 'free', remove road wheel.
Get someone inside car with foot hard on brakes. Remove the driveshaft retaining nut after opening-up the bent tab locking it to the shaft.
Remove the 6mm roll pin from the CV on the gearbox side.It simply drifts out, some WD 40 might be a good idea.
Remove the lower ball joint split pin/nut and separate the lower wishbone from the hub. You might have to reomve one of the roll bar bolts to let it drop down.
Pull the hub out away from the car. The Inner CV joint will come from the gearbox, watchout for oil. You might need a pry-bar to help things along.
Replace the large shaft nut on the hub side and drift the halfshaft out of the hub. Sometimes they 'fall out' sometimes a bitch.
Fit new shaft or be a real man and split the shaft to remove the boots etc, I would personally get a replacement shaft off David at Welcome to the API website as the mess of changing the boot is a pain (been there etc...)
Hope this helps.
Get car on ramp, with suspension 'free', remove road wheel.
Get someone inside car with foot hard on brakes. Remove the driveshaft retaining nut after opening-up the bent tab locking it to the shaft.
Remove the 6mm roll pin from the CV on the gearbox side.It simply drifts out, some WD 40 might be a good idea.
Remove the lower ball joint split pin/nut and separate the lower wishbone from the hub. You might have to reomve one of the roll bar bolts to let it drop down.
Pull the hub out away from the car. The Inner CV joint will come from the gearbox, watchout for oil. You might need a pry-bar to help things along.
Replace the large shaft nut on the hub side and drift the halfshaft out of the hub. Sometimes they 'fall out' sometimes a bitch.
Fit new shaft or be a real man and split the shaft to remove the boots etc, I would personally get a replacement shaft off David at Welcome to the API website as the mess of changing the boot is a pain (been there etc...)
Hope this helps.
#3
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Straightforward job, especially with your facillities:
Get car on ramp, with suspension 'free', remove road wheel.
Get someone inside car with foot hard on brakes. Remove the driveshaft retaining nut after opening-up the bent tab locking it to the shaft.
Remove the 6mm roll pin from the CV on the gearbox side.It simply drifts out, some WD 40 might be a good idea.
Remove the lower ball joint split pin/nut and separate the lower wishbone from the hub. You might have to reomve one of the roll bar bolts to let it drop down.
Pull the hub out away from the car. The Inner CV joint will come from the gearbox, watchout for oil. You might need a pry-bar to help things along.
Replace the large shaft nut on the hub side and drift the halfshaft out of the hub. Sometimes they 'fall out' sometimes a bitch.
Fit new shaft or be a real man and split the shaft to remove the boots etc, I would personally get a replacement shaft off David at Welcome to the API website as the mess of changing the boot is a pain (been there etc...)
Hope this helps.
Get car on ramp, with suspension 'free', remove road wheel.
Get someone inside car with foot hard on brakes. Remove the driveshaft retaining nut after opening-up the bent tab locking it to the shaft.
Remove the 6mm roll pin from the CV on the gearbox side.It simply drifts out, some WD 40 might be a good idea.
Remove the lower ball joint split pin/nut and separate the lower wishbone from the hub. You might have to reomve one of the roll bar bolts to let it drop down.
Pull the hub out away from the car. The Inner CV joint will come from the gearbox, watchout for oil. You might need a pry-bar to help things along.
Replace the large shaft nut on the hub side and drift the halfshaft out of the hub. Sometimes they 'fall out' sometimes a bitch.
Fit new shaft or be a real man and split the shaft to remove the boots etc, I would personally get a replacement shaft off David at Welcome to the API website as the mess of changing the boot is a pain (been there etc...)
Hope this helps.
When disconnecting shafts from the rear diff yes the oil will SPILLLLL be ready to catch it.
GoodLuck
#6
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Depends on the year Graham, The late model (2003 on I think) gearboxes don't have splined stubs sticking out of it that the inner end of the driveshafts plug onto, the later driveshafts plug into holes in the side of the gearbox case and then plug into the front diff. I'm using one of these late boxes in my 550 Spyder project with wrx lump. Couldn't fill up with oil until the driveshafts were in.
Oh and the oil seals in the gearbox for the driveshafts are handed as well they have a small ////// or \\\\\\ pattern on them depending on which side of the car they are for
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#8
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It's the Spyder rather than Speedster so mid-engined, not rear it's the one in James thread about his mid-engine escort build
#10
And no reply from the originator either, so expect he is happy!
Classis thread drift, but that's normal in conversations.
Sptder: Yes, remembered the mid engine bit. forgot they are not Speedsters!
You'll get to my age in time and suffer the same!
Classis thread drift, but that's normal in conversations.
Sptder: Yes, remembered the mid engine bit. forgot they are not Speedsters!
You'll get to my age in time and suffer the same!
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