Oil Change
09 February 2006, 01:41 PM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oil Change
Hi,
I'm looking to get an oil change done for the first time since I bought my car and im after some advice. The Subaru main dealer will do the oil and filter change for about £90, whereas the garage I always used to take my cars to will do it for £30. They both said they would use 10/30 oil (im assuming this is correct?) Is there any reason I should pay 3 times as much to have my oil changed?
cheers
AK
I'm looking to get an oil change done for the first time since I bought my car and im after some advice. The Subaru main dealer will do the oil and filter change for about £90, whereas the garage I always used to take my cars to will do it for £30. They both said they would use 10/30 oil (im assuming this is correct?) Is there any reason I should pay 3 times as much to have my oil changed?
cheers
AK
09 February 2006, 01:45 PM
#3
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: A powerslide near you
Posts: 10,261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why pay the extra. It's hardly a complicated task. The lowest trainee will be the one that does the job anyway. Find out what oil you need/want (WARNING - can of worms round here) and buy it cheaply yourself to give to mechanic. Having said that, if you know the local one at £30, they'd sell you the oil at trade. You'd be looking at £15 for the oil and £5 for the filter I'm guessing. That means Subaru are charging £70 for about 10 minutes work!!!!!
Personally, I'd DIY, it's not difficult.
Personally, I'd DIY, it's not difficult.
09 February 2006, 01:51 PM
#5
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Hunting for my next Impreza!
Posts: 2,388
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ~AK~
Cheers for that sound advice Graham, im glad you found it easier to type "use the search button" rather than a simple yes or no.
Sorry, but there is the same oil question every day....
Anyway. Change the oil yourself. I would get PRO-S Race oil 40quid from oilman. thats my opinion anyway.
There are plenty of other 10-40 oils that will be fine.
G.
09 February 2006, 03:42 PM
#7
Scooby Regular
Warm engine
Whilst warming, prefill (prime) the new filter with oil (keep topping up 'til it won't take any more - 3-4 goes usually)
Switch off engine, open bonnet and remove oil filler cap. Pull dipstick half out.
Remove undertray (4 bolts, 2 clips)
Remove sump nut and leave to drain for 10 minutes
After 2 minutes you can remove the old filter
Clean the mounting for the filter and fit the new one, applying a film of oil around the rubber seal
Once satisfied almost all the old oil is out, refit sump nut with a new compression washer
Fill with new oil - 3.5ltr straight in, then check dipstick as you add each 1/4ltr thereafter until at lowest mark on dipstick
Check sump nut and filter for for tightness and leaks
Here's where it sometimes varies. Many people now disconnect the crank position sensor to stop the car firing up and turn the car over for 20 seconds to distribute fresh oil. There is a belief however that the engine is under less strain when on tickover than when being turned by the starter, and that the pump at turn-over speeds will cavitate and not actually distribute the oil. So I'd just refit the oil filler cap and start her up and leave on tickover for 5 minutes
If all seems well, take it for a quick spin at low speed and under boost
On return check for any leaks around sump nut and filter
Check oil level and top to halfway between marks ir req'd
If alls well, refit undertray and wash hands.
As for the oil, go with any quality fully synth such as Motul, Silkolene, Mobil1, Millers etc. I prefer Silkolene ProS 5W40. I find 10W's take an age to warm up, and 0W are too thin. 30's may be a little thin too, 40 being ideal for road use rising to 50's for fast road and occasional track. 60 if running high power in extreme circumstances.
Whilst warming, prefill (prime) the new filter with oil (keep topping up 'til it won't take any more - 3-4 goes usually)
Switch off engine, open bonnet and remove oil filler cap. Pull dipstick half out.
Remove undertray (4 bolts, 2 clips)
Remove sump nut and leave to drain for 10 minutes
After 2 minutes you can remove the old filter
Clean the mounting for the filter and fit the new one, applying a film of oil around the rubber seal
Once satisfied almost all the old oil is out, refit sump nut with a new compression washer
Fill with new oil - 3.5ltr straight in, then check dipstick as you add each 1/4ltr thereafter until at lowest mark on dipstick
Check sump nut and filter for for tightness and leaks
Here's where it sometimes varies. Many people now disconnect the crank position sensor to stop the car firing up and turn the car over for 20 seconds to distribute fresh oil. There is a belief however that the engine is under less strain when on tickover than when being turned by the starter, and that the pump at turn-over speeds will cavitate and not actually distribute the oil. So I'd just refit the oil filler cap and start her up and leave on tickover for 5 minutes
If all seems well, take it for a quick spin at low speed and under boost
On return check for any leaks around sump nut and filter
Check oil level and top to halfway between marks ir req'd
If alls well, refit undertray and wash hands.
As for the oil, go with any quality fully synth such as Motul, Silkolene, Mobil1, Millers etc. I prefer Silkolene ProS 5W40. I find 10W's take an age to warm up, and 0W are too thin. 30's may be a little thin too, 40 being ideal for road use rising to 50's for fast road and occasional track. 60 if running high power in extreme circumstances.
Last edited by corradoboy; 09 February 2006 at 03:47 PM.
Trending Topics
09 February 2006, 05:02 PM
#9
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: A powerslide near you
Posts: 10,261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Paul3446
Sounds far too complicated, go to the non Subaru garage, if I tried to do it myself I'd probably put the oil in the screen wash bottle!
It's less complicated than making your dinner.
10 March 2006, 09:06 PM
#16
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rossyboy
I think you'll find that people will be more responsive to your questions if you dont use text speak on this forum 
Millers 10w 40 will be fine in a standard up to moderately modified car.
Millers 10w 40 will be fine in a standard up to moderately modified car.
also i would fit a new sump washer at 60p ish 
22 June 2007, 10:59 AM
#19
If you do it yourself and get the oil and filter from, say Halfords, a half decent 10/40 semi-synthetic oil will cost you around £20-25 and the filter £5-6
If a garage will do it for £30 he will be using pretty basic stuff to make any real profit, even accounting for the trade price he paid?
I'm also struggling to recall anyone who makes a 10/30 these days. I hope they meant 10/40
JohnD
If a garage will do it for £30 he will be using pretty basic stuff to make any real profit, even accounting for the trade price he paid?
I'm also struggling to recall anyone who makes a 10/30 these days. I hope they meant 10/40
JohnD
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sam Witwicky
Engine Management and ECU Remapping
17
13 November 2015 10:49 AM