bottom end had it :(
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bottom end had it :(
Well after some noise coming from the bottom end of my EJ25, I stripped the motor to find the usual #3 big end bearing let go and also #3 & #4 mains
After reading many people say that getting a regrind is a big NO - NO, I'm left with the option of getting another crank, so where is the best place to go? what sort of price can I expect to pay for one? either std or uprated??
Now going back to the no regrind, will it matter if its non turbo? would it hold up better if it was reground?
Thanks in advance.
After reading many people say that getting a regrind is a big NO - NO, I'm left with the option of getting another crank, so where is the best place to go? what sort of price can I expect to pay for one? either std or uprated??
Now going back to the no regrind, will it matter if its non turbo? would it hold up better if it was reground?
Thanks in advance.
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who mapped the car? whas there any warning it was going to let go? what sort of boost?
sorry i cant help with your actual questions!
sorry i cant help with your actual questions!
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You done well to kill a non turbo engine !!!
I have tried very hard to kill my leggy turbo engine and it still keeps going after 180k
A regrind or new crank will be costly as is everything scoob probably buying another engine from a damaged car is your best bet
I have tried very hard to kill my leggy turbo engine and it still keeps going after 180k
A regrind or new crank will be costly as is everything scoob probably buying another engine from a damaged car is your best bet
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Yes I know killing a NA engine was hard, I think I was just very unlucky as its only got 24k on it from new, as for replacing the whole motor, well thats not an option as other than the bearings there's absolutely nothing wrong with it, all the pistons and rings are in great shape, no wear on the bores at all, and I caught the bottom end very early so no bearing material anywhere other than on the bearings. Just on mark on #4 main journal so a polish could work but I'd rather not risk it (at least not yet). I do know regrinds and all bearings at my local engine centre is £250 + vat.
Originally Posted by pugoetru
You done well to kill a non turbo engine !!!
I have tried very hard to kill my leggy turbo engine and it still keeps going after 180k
A regrind or new crank will be costly as is everything scoob probably buying another engine from a damaged car is your best bet
I have tried very hard to kill my leggy turbo engine and it still keeps going after 180k
A regrind or new crank will be costly as is everything scoob probably buying another engine from a damaged car is your best bet
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Dont know if sport cranks are the same as the turbos (would have thought so) but if they are and yours is an early crank the thrust bearing will be on number 3 main so will need to replace with suitable crank.
If its a later (phase 2) then the thrust is on number 5 main and you can get STi 9 cranks, which are cross drilled, for around the £350 mark.
If its a later (phase 2) then the thrust is on number 5 main and you can get STi 9 cranks, which are cross drilled, for around the £350 mark.
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Yes its the early crank, thrust is on #3 bearing.
Any further info on if just getting a regrind will work given is non turbo?? everything I've read says on turbo's this is not worth doing.
Any further info on if just getting a regrind will work given is non turbo?? everything I've read says on turbo's this is not worth doing.
Originally Posted by Triple X
Dont know if sport cranks are the same as the turbos (would have thought so) but if they are and yours is an early crank the thrust bearing will be on number 3 main so will need to replace with suitable crank.
If its a later (phase 2) then the thrust is on number 5 main and you can get STi 9 cranks, which are cross drilled, for around the £350 mark.
If its a later (phase 2) then the thrust is on number 5 main and you can get STi 9 cranks, which are cross drilled, for around the £350 mark.
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For the amount of work/cost involved in getting it reground i (and most others) would suggest paying the little extra for a new crank and piece of mind.
If you plan on keeping the car especially so.
If you plan on keeping the car especially so.
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Thanks for replies, I think given that my engine is not turbo'd and getting the crank reground and supplied bearings is only going to cost me £250 + the dreaded, its a far cheaper option than spending 350 + bearings (GGR approx £220 for all of them) I wouldn't reuse bearings that could come with a used crank.
Lets not forget I'm doing all the other work as I see no reason to pay someone to work on my car when its no different to any other car out there (its still got an engine, fuel system, exhaust, gearbox, wheels etc).
Compression isn't ever affected by a regrind, unless Subaru are totally different to all other manufacturers. And I'm also very surprised that many have said that when a Subaru crank is reground they go soft, I guess they use poor quality materials for their cranks as other manufacturers don't have this prob.
Lets not forget I'm doing all the other work as I see no reason to pay someone to work on my car when its no different to any other car out there (its still got an engine, fuel system, exhaust, gearbox, wheels etc).
Compression isn't ever affected by a regrind, unless Subaru are totally different to all other manufacturers. And I'm also very surprised that many have said that when a Subaru crank is reground they go soft, I guess they use poor quality materials for their cranks as other manufacturers don't have this prob.
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Yes compressions between them are different but this is all in the pistons, cranks are the same (as long as thrust bearing is in the same place or you get blocks machined to accept later rear bearing)
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Originally Posted by shooter4fun
Yes I know killing a NA engine was hard, I think I was just very unlucky as its only got 24k on it from new, as for replacing the whole motor, well thats not an option as other than the bearings there's absolutely nothing wrong with it, all the pistons and rings are in great shape, no wear on the bores at all, and I caught the bottom end very early so no bearing material anywhere other than on the bearings. Just on mark on #4 main journal so a polish could work but I'd rather not risk it (at least not yet). I do know regrinds and all bearings at my local engine centre is £250 + vat.
i dont understand why people have so much trouble with their scoobs and then know why it happened! and we aint talking bout a lil misfire here, whole ****ing engines sayin "see ya later"... unreal
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The engine was looked after, well as good as I could, oil changes every 5k inc genuine oil filter. On further inspection it looks like the oil pump gave up (burn marks inside from metal to metal contact ), not sure why but its going to be replaced all the same.
I just used the GGR website to get an idea on prices, I know you can get cheaper, especially given the quote i got for regrind and bearings is about the same price as GGR sell just the bearings. I'mm 99% sure the engine place who quoted were quoting for Genuine bearings as a friend at the local Scooby dealers laughed saying so now we know who needs a regrind If you can point me to a web which has the bearings please do, as I could do with some other options.
I just used the GGR website to get an idea on prices, I know you can get cheaper, especially given the quote i got for regrind and bearings is about the same price as GGR sell just the bearings. I'mm 99% sure the engine place who quoted were quoting for Genuine bearings as a friend at the local Scooby dealers laughed saying so now we know who needs a regrind If you can point me to a web which has the bearings please do, as I could do with some other options.
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ACL bearings are a very popular aftermarket/upgrade choice.
Got mine local for around £130 (mains and big end)
Will PM you details tomorrow. Need to go through my folder of receipts!
Got mine local for around £130 (mains and big end)
Will PM you details tomorrow. Need to go through my folder of receipts!
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Originally Posted by shooter4fun
Compression isn't ever affected by a regrind, unless Subaru are totally different to all other manufacturers. And I'm also very surprised that many have said that when a Subaru crank is reground they go soft, I guess they use poor quality materials for their cranks as other manufacturers don't have this prob.
#21
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Unless Subaru make their cranks differently (and going by how easily they fail) they will be no different to any other car manufacturer, and others last when reground. So maybe you are right Subaru do something to theirs to make the fail quickly
Only one way to tell for sure I guess
Only one way to tell for sure I guess
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On an Impreze turbo with more than 240 - ish horsepower grinding the crank is not an option. It will last maybe 6 weeks and fail again, in APi's experience.
A Subaru flat 4 engine is so labour intensive as far as crankshaft repairs are concerned that it is silly to chance it. There is a whole days work to strip clean and rebuild the engine after a crank bearing failure. In a conventioanl [ upright ] engine it is possible to remove the sump change the bearings [ if lightly worn ] and be running again in 3 or 4 hours. No chance with the EJ Subaru series of engines.
NA engines and UK / Euro turbos will stand a crank grind. WRX and STi generally will not.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
A Subaru flat 4 engine is so labour intensive as far as crankshaft repairs are concerned that it is silly to chance it. There is a whole days work to strip clean and rebuild the engine after a crank bearing failure. In a conventioanl [ upright ] engine it is possible to remove the sump change the bearings [ if lightly worn ] and be running again in 3 or 4 hours. No chance with the EJ Subaru series of engines.
NA engines and UK / Euro turbos will stand a crank grind. WRX and STi generally will not.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
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Originally Posted by APIDavid
On an Impreze turbo with more than 240 - ish horsepower grinding the crank is not an option. It will last maybe 6 weeks and fail again, in APi's experience.
A Subaru flat 4 engine is so labour intensive as far as crankshaft repairs are concerned that it is silly to chance it. There is a whole days work to strip clean and rebuild the engine after a crank bearing failure. In a conventioanl [ upright ] engine it is possible to remove the sump change the bearings [ if lightly worn ] and be running again in 3 or 4 hours. No chance with the EJ Subaru series of engines.
NA engines and UK / Euro turbos will stand a crank grind. WRX and STi generally will not.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
A Subaru flat 4 engine is so labour intensive as far as crankshaft repairs are concerned that it is silly to chance it. There is a whole days work to strip clean and rebuild the engine after a crank bearing failure. In a conventioanl [ upright ] engine it is possible to remove the sump change the bearings [ if lightly worn ] and be running again in 3 or 4 hours. No chance with the EJ Subaru series of engines.
NA engines and UK / Euro turbos will stand a crank grind. WRX and STi generally will not.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
Something which I am having problems with is why it seems Subaru cranks don't last long if reground, they don't actually make a great deal of power compared to some others (even when tuned), and are inherently well balanced due to opposed design. I've seen reground cranks used in some very big Hp & Tq engines which are used every day, not just on the strip and they last as long as a new one.
Maybe its all down to poor manufacturing materials and processes which are the cause and not associated items like oil pumps?
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