Difficult to engage reverse???
#1
Difficult to engage reverse???
Hello all, as the title says, the last few days it has become REALLY hard to engage reverse , especially when cold. all other gears seem fine. When i start the car (stiv5) and attempt to reverse out, it just wont go in , so whilst keeping the clutch in, i put it in another gear and then back into reverse and this seems to work , any one had this problem before and what do people recommend?? (mileage is 48000 if thats any help)
cheers all
steve
cheers all
steve
#4
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Can't really help you but I have an MY00 UK Turbo on 59K and it hates going into reverse. Pumping the clutch a couple of times usually sorts it out.
edit - forgot to say, its done it for the 2 years I've owned it and serviced regularly.
edit - forgot to say, its done it for the 2 years I've owned it and serviced regularly.
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My P1 is the same. From cold, the gearbox doesn't want to get out of bed.
I've found that if I gently and slowly raise the clutch pedal, it'll slip into reverse no problem, with no graunching or grinding noises.
J.
I've found that if I gently and slowly raise the clutch pedal, it'll slip into reverse no problem, with no graunching or grinding noises.
J.
#6
thanks for the replies, it has eased my mind a bit, just had wheels done, dents repaired and then this starts, so thought it may be the clutch or even worse the gear box!!
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im getting similar problems with my 93 WRX... having to live with it at the moment, doesnt happen all the time, only seems to be when hot... so you are not alone!
a synchro mesh is basically what stops you having to double de-clutch and rev match every time you change gear...
...i spose best thing to do is make sure you are completely stopped and gently but firmly put it into reverse... works for me most of the time, although i do get the odd cringeworthy crunch........
chris
a synchro mesh is basically what stops you having to double de-clutch and rev match every time you change gear...
...i spose best thing to do is make sure you are completely stopped and gently but firmly put it into reverse... works for me most of the time, although i do get the odd cringeworthy crunch........
chris
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If it doesn't go, just put it in neutral, lift the clutch, then depress the clutch and try again.
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Originally Posted by 4x4chris
a synchro mesh is basically what stops you having to double de-clutch and rev match every time you change gear...
Same problem for me with reverse though, MY00.
#16
Originally Posted by Eprom
I have a MY99 and mine is the same, try letting the clutch up a little, after you depress it to the floor, works every time for me.
works for me too.
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speaking of clutches... how high does everybodies bite?
mine is very high up the travel of the pedal... now on a cable operated clutch i would normally adjust the cable... not too sure what to do on hydraulic??
mine is very high up the travel of the pedal... now on a cable operated clutch i would normally adjust the cable... not too sure what to do on hydraulic??
#18
Originally Posted by 4x4chris
speaking of clutches... how high does everybodies bite?
mine is very high up the travel of the pedal... now on a cable operated clutch i would normally adjust the cable... not too sure what to do on hydraulic??
mine is very high up the travel of the pedal... now on a cable operated clutch i would normally adjust the cable... not too sure what to do on hydraulic??
If this has not been adjusted leave it alone, as the clutch plate wears down it reduces in thickness, and the bite point will move further up.
You will know when the plate has know life left in it ,when it slips under boost.
Time then for a new clutch, start saving now if you cannot do the job yourself.
New clutch fitted cured mine, after slipping on boost.
Bite point now is near the bottom
Hope this helps.
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