Had the thing done about 2 months ago now and for 90% of the time it does a good job. The boost however still hunts in 4th and 5th Imagine you are joining the motorway, you come off of the roundabout in 3rd doing maybe 50 - 60mph, on the slip road about 100m ahead is a large lorry, the slip road is 400m long so you have plenty of space and time to decisivley pass the lorry before joining the Motorway. You floor it, change gear into 4th and floor it again, it's here that the boost gauge flies round to 20 odd psi and then the ecu retards it and if i leave my foot buried, it just goes backwards and forwards 20 odd, 5, 20 odd, 5 etc. To counter it I have to lift off to about 75% throttle this settles the hunting and the thing stays at 20 PSI and away I go.
I took the car to be "tweeked" as it was suggested that the duty cycles were not quite right, they tweeked and the car was better but still not quite right. Over the past few days though it has become noticeable again.
My questions are as follows:

Is it fair to assume that it is a physical component that is causing the problem? (Pipework, MAF, DV,Turbo) I am assuming that once the map has been adjusted, it cant "Un adjust" itself.

Should I just stick the DAWES back on and let that control the boost

If I stick the DAWES back on, would there have been ANY Point at all in having the TEK 3 done?

Ta

PS Flat4's car is a shed

 

mine was doing this the other day, won't hold boost, hits target boost then drops off by say .3 of a bar then back up aain and so on





so no, can't help you

 

Your problem Kev, seriously, is that your car is a shed

 

does sound like a duty cycle problem though as is mine

 

who mapped the car?

 

One of the best Pat at Scoobyclinic. This is why I suspect that something is happening to the car, It was mapped and ok, pulsing developed i took it back it was tweeked, better, now back to pulsing/hunting again. Really can't be arsed to go and get it tweeked every month, kinda defeats the object really don't it.

 

a lot of people use Bob & Branko and never have to go back for 'tweeks'. Might be worth a word as it does not sound right & you don't want your car to go BANG !

simon

 

he does want his car to go BANG though, he's got a flamer kit

 

Fair comment simo but to be fair, I'd rather investigate to see if there is a possibility of the car mechanically malfunctioning before diving in and slating someones reputation. You tend to keep your friends and contacts that way rather than burning bridges, know what I mean

So what about this then, Is it difficult to programme duty cycles? Could it be that the guy who drove it while it was being mapped, had a different driving style to me and the engine has been mapped to those throttle inputs?

Maybe?

 

Anyone?

 

gridlock- I 'd suggest you ask on 22b.

 

Cheers

 

could it be that the guy that drove it when Pat mapped it was only using 75% throttle most of the time?

I know a similar thing has happened to Andy.F.

sounds like a solid plan to try to eliminate problems in the car first,Pat's reputation speaks for itself

 

re: duty cycles, if its an avc-r then its a piece of pi55 to adjust

 

Had exactly the same problem with mine when i first got it, turbo boost hunting between .5 and 1 bar at motorway speeds!

Turned out to be a dodgy maf!!

 

Contact Pat and get him to run the rule over it "with you driving" no one else. Sounds like a duty cycle thing but are you still running the std two port or has that been changed ?

bob

 

Still the standard 2 port

Don't tell me, more money

 

3 port currently in the "for sale" section at the moment AFAIK

 

Spoken to PAT and as suspected there are a few issues that can be addressed first in order to ascertain where the fault lies. The first and oh so cheap and logical. Try a different restrictor Trust me it makes sense If that doesn't work, then we get into the relms of maybe sticking the DAWES on. Pat did go to great lengths to explain the good AND the "other" issues with the DAWES and the TD04. However it is a solution that doesn't cost a fortune AND it can be done safely. After that comes the more onerous MAF replacement etc.
I will let you know how I get on

 

if messing with the restrictor be very careful not to remove too much metal.
Just run a drill bit through it by hand. Taking a dusting of material off.

Just 0.1mm can make quite a difference.