Engine won't restart after a stall
#1
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Engine won't restart after a stall
Once or twice I've stalled the engine and it just won't re-start. Have tried putting my foot to the floor but won't fire. Usually have to leave for 5 mins. and then eventually re-starts - a bit embarrassing if you're sitting at a busy junction! Any ideas?
#3
is it when you have only been running for a few mins? if so this is a common fault with a lot of fuel injected cars. the ecu floods the engine on the restart, meaning you will sit cranking ang getting no where.
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try cleaning the crank sensor..
on the front of the engine below the alternator amoungs the pulleys.
The cam sensor looks the same and is easier to spot, below the oil filler..
undo the bolt and pull it out and give it a clean..
If it solves it then replace it when it starts doing it again..
Simon
on the front of the engine below the alternator amoungs the pulleys.
The cam sensor looks the same and is easier to spot, below the oil filler..
undo the bolt and pull it out and give it a clean..
If it solves it then replace it when it starts doing it again..
Simon
#6
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Since the crank and cam sensors are proximity sensors cleaning does nothing as dirt is seen as air gap.
You need to ascertain why it stalls in the first place, if you touch the throttle while trying to start under any circumstances then the engine WILL flood and the plugs WILL get wet stopping it starting so do not do that. The reason it won't restart imediately is related to the reason it stalled, solve that and you solve the restrat issue.
bob
You need to ascertain why it stalls in the first place, if you touch the throttle while trying to start under any circumstances then the engine WILL flood and the plugs WILL get wet stopping it starting so do not do that. The reason it won't restart imediately is related to the reason it stalled, solve that and you solve the restrat issue.
bob
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Originally Posted by Bob Rawle
Since the crank and cam sensors are proximity sensors cleaning does nothing as dirt is seen as air gap.
MAF?
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#8
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Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster
would have agreed with you BUT have seen it solve hot restart problems on several cars.. although the stalling in the first place like you suggest probably needs sorting..
MAF?
MAF?
#10
usually foot to the floor and starting it floods the engine and stops it from starting, if it cuts out again try restarting it 2-3 times without pedal to floor then on the 3-4 time turn ignition on and slowly apply a bit of gas
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Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster
do you have the same problem if you stop the car when it is hot by turning it off??
#12
I've had the same problem once when reversing off my drive way, had the music going and simply didnt rev it enough, i think the ecu just goes mental, sometimes you simply have to wait for 1-2 minutes.
#13
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Originally Posted by cong
usually foot to the floor and starting it floods the engine and stops it from starting, if it cuts out again try restarting it 2-3 times without pedal to floor then on the 3-4 time turn ignition on and slowly apply a bit of gas
Not 100% sure on scoobs, but I know on many other cars full throttle actually stops fuel being injected. Purely for the purpose of clearing excess fuel in a flooded engine. (which is why in some cases if you use full throttle to start a non-flooded engine - it wont start, as there isn't any fuel to start it with, not because it's flooded, which is commonly concieved).
oh, that's full throttle, and only full throttle - anything inbetween (including carpet mats ) will just carry on flooding it.
Last edited by ALi-B; 19 August 2004 at 11:51 AM.
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Originally Posted by ALi-B
As a note, full throttle is actually the procedure you use to clear a flooded fuel from engine. - Check the users manual
Not 100% sure on scoobs, but I know on many other cars full throttle actually stops fuel being injected. Purely for the purpose of clearing excess fuel in a flooded engine. (which is why in some cases if you use full throttle to start a non-flooded engine - it wont start, as there isn't any fuel to start it with, not because it's flooded, which is commonly concieved).
Not 100% sure on scoobs, but I know on many other cars full throttle actually stops fuel being injected. Purely for the purpose of clearing excess fuel in a flooded engine. (which is why in some cases if you use full throttle to start a non-flooded engine - it wont start, as there isn't any fuel to start it with, not because it's flooded, which is commonly concieved).
The full throttle is in fact the correct procedure for a flooded engine,adn it is mentioned in the manual.
But what happens is the throttle butterfly is then fully open allowing air to pass through the air filter and into the engine via the throttle body rather than via the air filter and idle controller. Therefore more air enters the engine, but the fuel is still injected, but the ecu only injects the fuel required by the amount of air sucked past the MAF sensor and triggers the timing of this injection by the crank sensor. The air already in the intercooler and pipework would be sucked in hopefully leaning out the flooded engine enough to allow it to start.
If as you say the ecu cut fuel then it would not start would it.. you would keep cranking it with your foot to the floor and it would never start as there would be no supply of fuel.. it would splutter on the fuel in the engine already and die.. which is not the case, when engine starts and you have to take your foot off the throttle..
However if you stall the car it should restart.. never had the problem on my car and that is with the OE ecu and my self mapped link ecu.
In fact when the car is cold and therefore very rich and it stalls it restarts no problem.. with no throttle at all, same when hot.
I would be inclined the longer the goes on to wonder if there is a fault with the MAF or coolant temp sensor or lambda sensor and the car is running rich.
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As I've already said I can't comment directly on scoobies relating to their full throttle cranking ECU behaviours, as I'm unsure of the exact ECU behaviour upon cranking. The full throttle trick always works on pair of DCOE carbs, so I can't discredit that
I would presume MAF values during cranking would be ignored due to too little air volume. Stalling however, due to MAF/OS problems is possible. CTS - this only really comes to play significantly whilst cranking and cold running.
But it's been said the stalling is accidental through driver error. Accidentally stalled scoobies, especially hot can be a little difficult to start, I've seen plenty like that (standard). But could be thay are all duff though
The ECU does try to keep a stalling engine running, I can give plenty on non-model specific blarb on what some do. Due to this it is possible once an engine has stalled to momentarily (milliseconds) carry on injecting fuel as some ECU's aren't the quickest at recognising the engine is no longer running. Result: flooded engine.
Dodgy/weak crank/cam sensor signals only add to the problem, as they show up worst whilst cranking and stalling, the slow engine speed induces too little voltage in the coil of the sensor. But if there are no noticable problems whilst starting the car normally hot or cold then I wouldn't go changing it, unless you have a spare lying around.
I would presume MAF values during cranking would be ignored due to too little air volume. Stalling however, due to MAF/OS problems is possible. CTS - this only really comes to play significantly whilst cranking and cold running.
But it's been said the stalling is accidental through driver error. Accidentally stalled scoobies, especially hot can be a little difficult to start, I've seen plenty like that (standard). But could be thay are all duff though
The ECU does try to keep a stalling engine running, I can give plenty on non-model specific blarb on what some do. Due to this it is possible once an engine has stalled to momentarily (milliseconds) carry on injecting fuel as some ECU's aren't the quickest at recognising the engine is no longer running. Result: flooded engine.
Dodgy/weak crank/cam sensor signals only add to the problem, as they show up worst whilst cranking and stalling, the slow engine speed induces too little voltage in the coil of the sensor. But if there are no noticable problems whilst starting the car normally hot or cold then I wouldn't go changing it, unless you have a spare lying around.
Last edited by ALi-B; 19 August 2004 at 12:54 PM.
#17
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ive stalled mine as well due to pulling away from a shop to "grandadish" (but i was eating a twix or summit lol)
took ages to start mine as well
took ages to start mine as well
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