thetechnogeek

Just got a Dawes device from a very helpful Scoobynet member and am in the process of setting it up. I have a boost gauge, but no Knocklinkk, AFR meter etc. I really want to go for a fit-and-forget with this.

Previous user had it set for 1.1bar- is this the max "safe" level: a few previous posts have suggested 1.2-1.3bar as being OK for an otherwise unmodded MY00, but opinions very welcomed on this.

Thanks for your help guys

john banks

1.1 bar.

thetechnogeek

Thanks. Just back from a setting up session, and 1.1 bar is the absolute "peak" I'm currently set for- WOT in 5th. After a few seconds it falls back to 1.05-ish. Have to say I don't really feel a difference between this and stock, but guess I'm getting a few more ponies out. Spool up also seems to happen a couple of hundred revs lower though.

Cheers

iain

The_Judge

If you've still got the restrictive stock exhaust, with both cats in situ, you're not going to notice massive amounts of extra power. As JB says, 1.1bar is probably as far as I'd push it with no other mods or monitoring equipment. 1.2bar with full de-cat exhaust, Samco intercooler hoses, NGK PFR7Bs, Optimax (and preferably a good octane booster), and most importantly a Knocklink. 1.3bar, no chance. Not with the TD04.

If, sorry, when () you decide to carry out further mods, keep an eye on your boost level, as it will more than likely increase without you touching the Dawes. And fuel cut is a tad above 17psi (1.17bar) which you don't really want to be experiencing...

kevin stanton

I'm running 1.5bar with a TD04 no problem, granted it is mapped to drop off at top end.

The_Judge

If you have the luxury of a re-map it's not really a fair comparison. Sure, you can screw every last psi out the TD04 if you've had the ECU mapped accordingly. But my point was with reference to using a Dawes MBC. 1.5bar in the mid-range, no problem. But you've then got the problem of surging lower down in the rev range, and heating the air up too much above ~5000rpm...

kevin stanton

your not wrong about the heating the air up. i suffer from bad heat soak. i've mapped the ecu to activate the waterspray at 70 % throttle to try and keep the temps down a tad.
its about time i upgraded to a TD05 and FMIC, to run the same boost, but not having the turbo working so hard, its just the cost issues at the moment.

still paying off the credit card for a new gearbox, clutch and flywheel from a couple of months back.

The_Judge

I'm toying with the idea of a new turbo/FMIC as well. But then I'd need a new fuel pump and FPR. Plus a replacement for my AE802. Then either my clutch or gearbox (or both) would be the weakest link... It's all money money money, isn't it?!

Jake

I have done the TD05/FMIC/Link thing and although its great fun beating 911's off the lights it has cost me thousands!!!! but defo worth it for the adrenalin rush I get everytime I drive the thing....

EddScott

I've priced this up before and I think 300+ is possible if you buy wisely:-

TD05 - £600 2nd hand
Hybrid FMIC - £600
FPR and injectors - £300 ish 2nd hand
ECUTEK/Power FC - £700 ish (mines got TEK2 so upgrade to TEK3 license about £300)
Headers too (?)

However I don't know how laggy the above would be. For little lag change the tubby to VF35 (Someone said VF35 but I though the higher the number the bigger the turbo becuase my first alternative was a VF28 which should be good for 300 with little lag) and modify a STI8 I/C to fit MY00.

After that, new clutch, 'box and finally diff - another few £Gs there