TEK to be supplemented by...??
06 February 2004, 12:47 AM
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TEK to be supplemented by...??
Everytime the word tuning shows up here, there are always some that says you must add this or that along. Like a boost gauge and knock links etc. etc.
My question is: Are there some musts that you need to go along with the ECUTEK?
Are colder spark plugs a good idea? A must? I´m talking about a bugeye with decat and custom ECUTEK and minor other mods like aftermarket panelfilter.
I expect approx. 275HP. What about fuelpump/oilpump? Injectors?
I know a boost gauge and knock-link are good to have if engine is heavely
modded but don´t consider them to be musts with ECUTEK as this is a professional tuning method and is kept with good safety margins.
Claus
My question is: Are there some musts that you need to go along with the ECUTEK?
Are colder spark plugs a good idea? A must? I´m talking about a bugeye with decat and custom ECUTEK and minor other mods like aftermarket panelfilter.
I expect approx. 275HP. What about fuelpump/oilpump? Injectors?
I know a boost gauge and knock-link are good to have if engine is heavely
modded but don´t consider them to be musts with ECUTEK as this is a professional tuning method and is kept with good safety margins.
Claus
06 February 2004, 11:35 AM
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I suppose it's all down to personal preference really. And as you say, alot depends on how modified the car is.
I wouldn't have thought you'd need fuel pump/regulator/injectors for 275bhp. Although some EcuTek tuners would prefer it if you had fuel pump/regulator, for extra peace of mind.
Boost gauge is useful, whether the engine is modified or not, as a troubleshooter if things go wrong. Same can be said for an AFR gauge. If you have a problem, and you know what your boost and AFR are doing, you're more than halfway to solving the problem.
As for knocklink, I think it's an absolute must. When you start playing with boost and timing (which is exactly what an EcuTek remap will be doing), it really is a good idea to monitor for det. As you say, the remap is a professional tuning method, but even so, the tuner is still eating into the margin of safety that Subaru built into the ECU. And I don't know what your fuel is like over there, but certainly here in the UK, you don't know what you're putting in your tank from one week to the next. And without a knocklink, you'd be blissfully unaware of any problems...
I wouldn't have thought you'd need fuel pump/regulator/injectors for 275bhp. Although some EcuTek tuners would prefer it if you had fuel pump/regulator, for extra peace of mind.
Boost gauge is useful, whether the engine is modified or not, as a troubleshooter if things go wrong. Same can be said for an AFR gauge. If you have a problem, and you know what your boost and AFR are doing, you're more than halfway to solving the problem.
As for knocklink, I think it's an absolute must. When you start playing with boost and timing (which is exactly what an EcuTek remap will be doing), it really is a good idea to monitor for det. As you say, the remap is a professional tuning method, but even so, the tuner is still eating into the margin of safety that Subaru built into the ECU. And I don't know what your fuel is like over there, but certainly here in the UK, you don't know what you're putting in your tank from one week to the next. And without a knocklink, you'd be blissfully unaware of any problems...
06 February 2004, 11:38 AM
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After 10000 miles of running with a TEK3 ECU I fitted NGK PFR-7B plugs and wished I had done it sooner. Much smoother top end and less hesitation on the transition between open and closed loop monitoring.
A Knocklink is a must.
Nathan..
A Knocklink is a must.
Nathan..
06 February 2004, 11:49 AM
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Bollokcs, forgot about the plugs! When my car was serviced a couple of weeks ago, I asked the mechanic to check the plugs when removing for the oil change (
), as I wasn't sure what were in. When he removed them, he said they were NGK PFR6Bs, so I asked him to put 7Bs in, as I'd heard they could help with my occasional hesitation problem. And also, as I'd upped the boost to 18psi, I wanted to be certain the plugs were suitable. As Nathan said above, they have made a difference, mainly being less flat spots when flooring it. With the 6Bs, as the fuelling went to open-loop, it was a 50/50 as to whether I got full power. It still isn't perfect (but I'm sure that's down to timing more than anything else), but it's more like 90/10 now.
), as I wasn't sure what were in. When he removed them, he said they were NGK PFR6Bs, so I asked him to put 7Bs in, as I'd heard they could help with my occasional hesitation problem. And also, as I'd upped the boost to 18psi, I wanted to be certain the plugs were suitable. As Nathan said above, they have made a difference, mainly being less flat spots when flooring it. With the 6Bs, as the fuelling went to open-loop, it was a 50/50 as to whether I got full power. It still isn't perfect (but I'm sure that's down to timing more than anything else), but it's more like 90/10 now.
06 February 2004, 01:19 PM
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Are you sure you'll be happy with 275hp? This is on the limit of stock 380cc WRX injectors, you maybe better off swapping them for STi items now....or at least fit a new pump anf FPR. Talk to your tuner - basically whatever he recommends, and is familiar with, is what you should be doing. Every tuner has his own way about doing things.
Richard
Richard
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07 February 2004, 01:55 PM
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Hi all. And thanks.
Scooby Sport claims 285 with his exhaust. Says nothing about changing injectors or fuel pump/regulator. So I would think 275 was quite safe.
I already have AFR meter which I installed along with full de-cat because I read on here that such mod raises boost a little. But I still expect the TEK to be bullet proof and see no reason for knocklink or boost gauge. I mean, when the tuner maps the TEK I believe him to be able to set the ignition timing correctly and since it is not mechanic set like in old days it will not be able to change. I know though that things like the weather could affect the engines tendency to knock. We have 98 octane fuel here in Belgium so shouldn´t be a problem.
Claus
Scooby Sport claims 285 with his exhaust. Says nothing about changing injectors or fuel pump/regulator. So I would think 275 was quite safe.
I already have AFR meter which I installed along with full de-cat because I read on here that such mod raises boost a little. But I still expect the TEK to be bullet proof and see no reason for knocklink or boost gauge. I mean, when the tuner maps the TEK I believe him to be able to set the ignition timing correctly and since it is not mechanic set like in old days it will not be able to change. I know though that things like the weather could affect the engines tendency to knock. We have 98 octane fuel here in Belgium so shouldn´t be a problem.
Claus
07 February 2004, 05:44 PM
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Sorry, missed this. Not sure really - I've only mapped a few WRX's so far. They were up at around 105% IDC's (according to DeltaDash)......I would have guesstimated them to be pushing out 270-280 (maybe they've actually got more - I'm not used to driving such lardy cars 
;D). I'd played with timing, but fuelling only had a little pulled high up - maybe that's where the extra comes.
Has anyone ever weighed a WRX? I'd be interested to know weighbridge results, can then use AP22 and RoadDyno on them and get some comparative data.
Regarding the injectors though - I would love to see flow test outputs for these WRX 380's; one with a vf28 I did ran up to 117% IDC with no ill effects (knocklink and WB). I would never have been so brave on a classic! I wonder if they're flowing more than expected, even taking into account on/off time calculations.
Richard
;D). I'd played with timing, but fuelling only had a little pulled high up - maybe that's where the extra comes.Has anyone ever weighed a WRX? I'd be interested to know weighbridge results, can then use AP22 and RoadDyno on them and get some comparative data.
Regarding the injectors though - I would love to see flow test outputs for these WRX 380's; one with a vf28 I did ran up to 117% IDC with no ill effects (knocklink and WB). I would never have been so brave on a classic! I wonder if they're flowing more than expected, even taking into account on/off time calculations.
Richard
07 February 2004, 06:46 PM
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Claus
All you need is a bad batch of fuel or a slowly failing maf sensor. The engine goes lean and bang.
A Knocklink may seem like a waste of £100.00 but it could save you thousands.
Nathan..
All you need is a bad batch of fuel or a slowly failing maf sensor. The engine goes lean and bang.
A Knocklink may seem like a waste of £100.00 but it could save you thousands.
Nathan..
07 February 2004, 08:33 PM
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I appreciate your help everyone. Have a few comments and ??
Thought IDC was not supposed to get too near 100%
Don´t know the exact weight of an WRX, but isn´t it 1380kg?
Dowser: what´s WB?
Nathan L: Regarding bad fuel/running lean and MAF. Wouldn´t my AFR meter show if the engine is running lean? And I thought new age cars didn´t have MAF problems.
Are you still running 290+ in a WRX. I ask because you wrote I was running...
Keep going. Convince me to buy a knock link.
Claus
Thought IDC was not supposed to get too near 100%
Don´t know the exact weight of an WRX, but isn´t it 1380kg?
Dowser: what´s WB?
Nathan L: Regarding bad fuel/running lean and MAF. Wouldn´t my AFR meter show if the engine is running lean? And I thought new age cars didn´t have MAF problems.
Are you still running 290+ in a WRX. I ask because you wrote I was running...
Keep going. Convince me to buy a knock link.
Claus
08 February 2004, 09:27 AM
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He can calculate duty cycle and see knock through the factory sensor.....................but you shouldn't always rely on that.................it can fail too.
08 February 2004, 12:58 PM
#14
I've run a Tek3 on MY99uk for about 1.5yrs now. I have an optional boost gauge just to keep an eye on boost (funnily enough ). If you get the mapper to map it conservatively you shouldn't need a Knocklink. Personally cant be doing with all the gadgets cluttering up my dash.
). If you get the mapper to map it conservatively you shouldn't need a Knocklink. Personally cant be doing with all the gadgets cluttering up my dash.
08 February 2004, 09:41 PM
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Wouldn´t I just be better off with a thing like a Dawes and a fuel computer + knock link (already have AFR). I mean, if I have to buy a lot of extra gadgets anyway to keep a safe eye on my engine? I was going for the Tek for the safety of it. So what´s the big advantage with a EcuTek v. a MBC with some extra gadgets. Will the Tek give me more power?
09 February 2004, 02:21 AM
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Originally posted by Bob5
Although the ecutek map may be safe, the Knocklink will save you by alerting you of det from even a bad batch of fuel which is quite common from some servos, (Aussie term for petrol stations). Knocklinks are a must for all turbo'd cars for engine insurance.
Cheers,
George.
If you get the mapper to map it conservatively you shouldn't need a Knocklink.
Knocklinks are a must for all turbo'd cars for engine insurance. Cheers,
George.
Last edited by WREXY; 09 February 2004 at 02:23 AM.
09 February 2004, 07:01 AM
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An ecu remap, when done properly, will give a fatter torque curve than a simple MBC'ed car. Outright power wont be a lot different on a rolling road, but the remapped one should have much better driveability on the black stuff
You're better off talking to your tuner about these things, and listen to what he says (rather than us idiots on the boards).
Richard
You're better off talking to your tuner about these things, and listen to what he says (rather than us idiots on the boards
).Richard
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