Boost Control?
#1
What will a Boost Control device do, such as the HKS EVC?? Is it something I need to worry about on a std UK car or only if I "chip" it, i.e. Unichip or Link?
Cheers,
Andy
Cheers,
Andy
#2
Boost controller control your boost pressure, more boost more power, less boost less power, simple as that. But..... not so simple, can cause damage to you engine if fuel supply not follow up with extra boost. If your car is an sti version, no much problem as its forge piston. If not, because of piston slap and melt of piston, depanding how much extra boost you increase.
#3
So if I have a std UK model there is no benefit. But if I add, say a Unichip then I should be looking to one of these devices to ensure I do not overboost and damage the engine?
Next question - what are the different type of boost control available. i.e. HKS models vs anything else?
Andy
Next question - what are the different type of boost control available. i.e. HKS models vs anything else?
Andy
#4
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Andy,
I run an HKS EVC 4 on a UK MY99 car. Along with the usual exhaust and filter modifications. I regiously use Super Unleaded as well.
At the moment high boost is set to 1.18bar/17.1psi. On a rolling road, this showed 280bhp/252lbft.
The cars are prone to over fuelling, so by adding the EVC it's using the extra fuel there. With the mild increase, I wasn't too worried about ignition timing, and the fuelling was checked out on a rolling road.
1.18 bar is the safe maximum for a UK car, according to serveral sources. I know that Nito has run over 50,000 miles with a HKS EVC with no issue.
I've had mine for about 6,000 miles with no issue. There are several other onwers using them as well.
As long as you are not stupid with it, your car will be fine. Make sure the fuelling to the car is fine, also take some precautions, like a KnockLink, just in case. BRD can supply and fit the KnockLink for you.
Hope this helps
Andy
I run an HKS EVC 4 on a UK MY99 car. Along with the usual exhaust and filter modifications. I regiously use Super Unleaded as well.
At the moment high boost is set to 1.18bar/17.1psi. On a rolling road, this showed 280bhp/252lbft.
The cars are prone to over fuelling, so by adding the EVC it's using the extra fuel there. With the mild increase, I wasn't too worried about ignition timing, and the fuelling was checked out on a rolling road.
1.18 bar is the safe maximum for a UK car, according to serveral sources. I know that Nito has run over 50,000 miles with a HKS EVC with no issue.
I've had mine for about 6,000 miles with no issue. There are several other onwers using them as well.
As long as you are not stupid with it, your car will be fine. Make sure the fuelling to the car is fine, also take some precautions, like a KnockLink, just in case. BRD can supply and fit the KnockLink for you.
Hope this helps
Andy
#5
Andy,
So let me get this straight. With an aftermarket boost controller you actually up the amount of boost (or better control it) your car can hold? Does this link to the ECU in anyway? Is it basically a sophisticated replacement for the boost solenoid? Why is it any better than simply adding a "bleed valve". Sorry for stoopid questions, just getting my head around the concept.
Cheers,
Andy
PS. Andy - aren't you running a PPP as well?
So let me get this straight. With an aftermarket boost controller you actually up the amount of boost (or better control it) your car can hold? Does this link to the ECU in anyway? Is it basically a sophisticated replacement for the boost solenoid? Why is it any better than simply adding a "bleed valve". Sorry for stoopid questions, just getting my head around the concept.
Cheers,
Andy
PS. Andy - aren't you running a PPP as well?
#6
Understand simple English?
After market chip always provide higher boost pressure than stardard. Always know what boost pressure the car is currently running (by adding a boost guage) and check with the chip supplier how much boost it should read after installing the chip, say the uk wrx is running at 1 bar, after installing the chip can expect something like 1.1 or 1.2 bar. In comparison, it is better to have it chiped rather than just boost controller as the mapping of fuel, timing and boost data are all changed in one package. Therefore if the car have already the chip thus boost controller is not too important, unless for fine tune purposes as result of boost various on some car. So if the chip have 90 to 95% accuracy, i would say its consider matching data. I would check with the supplier whether the program is best goes with which sort of mod because it is usually chiped for changed of exhaust and air intake. The best way is to have something like Motec, Autronics, Link, this sort of multi mapping programmable computer which have to be set up by professional with lap top on road and dyno for optimum result. With these you will really need to consider a boost controller for playing with different boost pressure, unlike chip, only one fix mapping. Downside for this Link staff would be the $$$, more expensive....
[This message has been edited by Hyperex (edited 19 June 2001).]
After market chip always provide higher boost pressure than stardard. Always know what boost pressure the car is currently running (by adding a boost guage) and check with the chip supplier how much boost it should read after installing the chip, say the uk wrx is running at 1 bar, after installing the chip can expect something like 1.1 or 1.2 bar. In comparison, it is better to have it chiped rather than just boost controller as the mapping of fuel, timing and boost data are all changed in one package. Therefore if the car have already the chip thus boost controller is not too important, unless for fine tune purposes as result of boost various on some car. So if the chip have 90 to 95% accuracy, i would say its consider matching data. I would check with the supplier whether the program is best goes with which sort of mod because it is usually chiped for changed of exhaust and air intake. The best way is to have something like Motec, Autronics, Link, this sort of multi mapping programmable computer which have to be set up by professional with lap top on road and dyno for optimum result. With these you will really need to consider a boost controller for playing with different boost pressure, unlike chip, only one fix mapping. Downside for this Link staff would be the $$$, more expensive....
[This message has been edited by Hyperex (edited 19 June 2001).]
#7
lo all
just my point then.
i have a my 97 catalunya,normal boost is 15 psi back to 12 psi,i am fitting a 2 stage boost so as to cut the psi down to 7 for the wife's driving.when fitting and trying the car we only managed to get the 2 stage boost down 2 psi to 10 psi,it was suggested that i get a bleed valve and alter the boost down to 7 psi for the 2 stage side of things and adjust the peak boost 2 17 psi back to 15 psi thus givng a bit better performance and cut diana's driving stlye at the same time,dose all of this sound about right or is there an easier way of doing this.
cheers dougi+diana
just my point then.
i have a my 97 catalunya,normal boost is 15 psi back to 12 psi,i am fitting a 2 stage boost so as to cut the psi down to 7 for the wife's driving.when fitting and trying the car we only managed to get the 2 stage boost down 2 psi to 10 psi,it was suggested that i get a bleed valve and alter the boost down to 7 psi for the 2 stage side of things and adjust the peak boost 2 17 psi back to 15 psi thus givng a bit better performance and cut diana's driving stlye at the same time,dose all of this sound about right or is there an easier way of doing this.
cheers dougi+diana
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#8
Okay, thanks for all the info guys. I'm in the process of saving up for a Unichip and after talking to PowerStation, they suggest an HKS EVC in addition. This is a little more money than I initially wanted to pay. Would it be sensible to go simply for the Unichip with first a conservative amount of boost. Then at a later date, if I wish to up the boost, maybe fit a boost control (and knocklink?)
Has anyone fitted a Unichip without a boost control? Or should I really get both?
Andy
PS. Not sure what a "conservative" amount of boost would be though.
Has anyone fitted a Unichip without a boost control? Or should I really get both?
Andy
PS. Not sure what a "conservative" amount of boost would be though.
#9
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Andy,
You will need some sort of boost controller with the Unichip. I think the basic one is similar to a bleed valve. - I could be wrong, worth checking with PS.
If you need an alternative, I'm selling my HKS EVC4, so at least it will be cheaper!!!
Andy
You will need some sort of boost controller with the Unichip. I think the basic one is similar to a bleed valve. - I could be wrong, worth checking with PS.
If you need an alternative, I'm selling my HKS EVC4, so at least it will be cheaper!!!
Andy
#10
<<If you need an alternative, I'm selling my HKS EVC4, so at least it will be cheaper!!! >>
I'm up for that - as long as it's cheap! Is it easy to fit?
Andy
I'm up for that - as long as it's cheap! Is it easy to fit?
Andy
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by andyp:
<B>Andy,
So let me get this straight. With an aftermarket boost controller you actually up the amount of boost (or better control it) your car can hold? Does this link to the ECU in anyway? Is it basically a sophisticated replacement for the boost solenoid? Why is it any better than simply adding a "bleed valve". Sorry for stoopid questions, just getting my head around the concept.
Cheers,
Andy
PS. Andy - aren't you running a PPP as well? [/quote]
Andy,
The EVC does up the boost, and had not connection to the ECU.
Facilities of the EVC that are better than a bleed valve:
1) Ability to select high and low settings, depeding on grade of fuel, driving conditions, drivers ability, etc.
2) Gives additional overboost cut off facility. So as well as the standard ECU overboost, you can set an additional one on the HKS unit.
3) Smoother boost characteristics - not as jerky as the standard analogue controller.
4) Compensates for cold weather, so no need to go under the bonnet to adjust the bleed valve when the weather changes.
I am running a PPP ECU as well, as the fuelling is slightly better, but I'm about to remove than and go back to the standard ECU.
As I said before, as long as you don't up the boost, and get your fuelling checked out, it will be fine! Ramp up the boost, without a care and the car will go boom!
Andy
<B>Andy,
So let me get this straight. With an aftermarket boost controller you actually up the amount of boost (or better control it) your car can hold? Does this link to the ECU in anyway? Is it basically a sophisticated replacement for the boost solenoid? Why is it any better than simply adding a "bleed valve". Sorry for stoopid questions, just getting my head around the concept.
Cheers,
Andy
PS. Andy - aren't you running a PPP as well? [/quote]
Andy,
The EVC does up the boost, and had not connection to the ECU.
Facilities of the EVC that are better than a bleed valve:
1) Ability to select high and low settings, depeding on grade of fuel, driving conditions, drivers ability, etc.
2) Gives additional overboost cut off facility. So as well as the standard ECU overboost, you can set an additional one on the HKS unit.
3) Smoother boost characteristics - not as jerky as the standard analogue controller.
4) Compensates for cold weather, so no need to go under the bonnet to adjust the bleed valve when the weather changes.
I am running a PPP ECU as well, as the fuelling is slightly better, but I'm about to remove than and go back to the standard ECU.
As I said before, as long as you don't up the boost, and get your fuelling checked out, it will be fine! Ramp up the boost, without a care and the car will go boom!
Andy
#12
Andy
I've recently had a Unichip fitted to my MY00 and I didn't want to spend too much, so I just had the chip done. Before my car was always holding steady 14.5 dropping off to 14psi at worst.
After I had the chip done it peaked higher mid range but dropped off more at top end and it felt like a waist of money. Before I got it done PS recommended a Valve Controller but I didn't want to spend that much!
I've now got it fitted and it works a lot better and smoother than ever before and I too would strongly recommend that you'll need both unless you have a PPP ecu.
Steve
I've recently had a Unichip fitted to my MY00 and I didn't want to spend too much, so I just had the chip done. Before my car was always holding steady 14.5 dropping off to 14psi at worst.
After I had the chip done it peaked higher mid range but dropped off more at top end and it felt like a waist of money. Before I got it done PS recommended a Valve Controller but I didn't want to spend that much!
I've now got it fitted and it works a lot better and smoother than ever before and I too would strongly recommend that you'll need both unless you have a PPP ecu.
Steve
#13
Steve,
With the Unichip fitted, did you find a good increase in the low to mid range power and torque? And how would you rate the power and torque gains overall compared to, say the PPP?
All,
Thanks for all the information so far. I think I'm getting to grips with the BASIC concepts of boost and fuelling. But why doesn't a mod such a The Link require an additional boost control unit. Is it because it has this functionality within the management system, rather than a Unichip which is a simpler "chip" that only modifies fuelling?
Cheers,
Andy
With the Unichip fitted, did you find a good increase in the low to mid range power and torque? And how would you rate the power and torque gains overall compared to, say the PPP?
All,
Thanks for all the information so far. I think I'm getting to grips with the BASIC concepts of boost and fuelling. But why doesn't a mod such a The Link require an additional boost control unit. Is it because it has this functionality within the management system, rather than a Unichip which is a simpler "chip" that only modifies fuelling?
Cheers,
Andy
#14
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by dougies549:
<B>
i have a my 97 catalunya,normal boost is 15 psi back to 12 psi,i am fitting a 2 stage boost so as to cut the psi down to 7 for the wife's driving.[/quote]
Why do you want less boost for your wife's driving? If she doesn't want to go as fast, the simple way to cut boost is to exercise restraint on the right foot.
OTOH Lee Christie's site
<B>
i have a my 97 catalunya,normal boost is 15 psi back to 12 psi,i am fitting a 2 stage boost so as to cut the psi down to 7 for the wife's driving.[/quote]
Why do you want less boost for your wife's driving? If she doesn't want to go as fast, the simple way to cut boost is to exercise restraint on the right foot.
OTOH Lee Christie's site
#15
Andy
Basically (somebody correct me if I'm wrong)
Link ecu's can be set up and modified to suit anything. To get the best out of it, it needs to be set up spot on which could take for ever in the day.
A Prodrive ecu has already had the setting up done to a level they consider good and you simply plug it in.
Which one is better I really couldn't say, but for ease I think the Prodrive is a lot simpler!
Having a boost controller helps to maintain peak boost whatever revs.
I would expect it would also be a good advantage with the Prodrive ecu.
Regards
Steve
Basically (somebody correct me if I'm wrong)
Link ecu's can be set up and modified to suit anything. To get the best out of it, it needs to be set up spot on which could take for ever in the day.
A Prodrive ecu has already had the setting up done to a level they consider good and you simply plug it in.
Which one is better I really couldn't say, but for ease I think the Prodrive is a lot simpler!
Having a boost controller helps to maintain peak boost whatever revs.
I would expect it would also be a good advantage with the Prodrive ecu.
Regards
Steve
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