MY03 rough running after reset. Any ideas?
#1
I fitted a Hyperflow cold air kit a month or so ago, reset the ECU, and it was great.
I then fitted a full scoobysport system the week before last, never got round to resetting the ECU as it was running really well.
Decided to reset it yesterday, and it's running like a pile of sh*te now Feels like its really breathless mid-range, which it didn't before I reset it.
The car is a MY03 with Ecutek fitted.
Any ideas?
I then fitted a full scoobysport system the week before last, never got round to resetting the ECU as it was running really well.
Decided to reset it yesterday, and it's running like a pile of sh*te now Feels like its really breathless mid-range, which it didn't before I reset it.
The car is a MY03 with Ecutek fitted.
Any ideas?
#2
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Hmmmm - I know it's not meant to be common on this model but it's quite possibly the MAF that has gone. Does the Hyperflow Cold Air Kit include an aftermarket ram air/pod type filter?
Matt.
Matt.
#3
I bet when you reset it you ragged the nuts off it straight away,you need to reset it again and then drive it gently below 3k for a few minutes while the Ecutek re-adjusts your settings.
If you drive it over 3k straight after a reset it wont learn the Ecutek settings properly and will feel flat as a witches t#t in the mid range.
If you follow the above it should be fine.
Zippy
[Edited by ZIPPY - 1/8/2004 6:45:13 PM]
If you drive it over 3k straight after a reset it wont learn the Ecutek settings properly and will feel flat as a witches t#t in the mid range.
If you follow the above it should be fine.
Zippy
[Edited by ZIPPY - 1/8/2004 6:45:13 PM]
#4
Thanks guys.
The Hyperflow has a K&N Cone which mounts inside the wing. I had
thought poss MAF but haven't a chance to do too much more with it.
I had also considered that it's the first time I haven't had OB in it for a while, and maybe I've got a crappy tank of Optimax?
zippy yhm
[Edited by peter_pan - 1/8/2004 8:54:33 PM]
The Hyperflow has a K&N Cone which mounts inside the wing. I had
thought poss MAF but haven't a chance to do too much more with it.
I had also considered that it's the first time I haven't had OB in it for a while, and maybe I've got a crappy tank of Optimax?
zippy yhm
[Edited by peter_pan - 1/8/2004 8:54:33 PM]
#5
Ecu Specialist
Sorry but ....
When you reset the ecu you delete all your ignition and fuel learning, have to say if its not broke etc, car was fine so why do it?
In order to teach it you need to do the following, using a small amount of vacuum in say 4th gear run the car up_through_the_rev_range to about 5k, keep it on the vac, if you have to lift off eyc fine but repoeat untill you cover the range, this will start the fuel learning process, this only applies to closed loop off boost driving but should be done first, next, having got that done drive the car again in 4th using approx 0.6/0.7 bar boost up thro' the rev range to say 6500, this will allow the ecu to learn the advance multiplier it wants, if all is well it will ramp up to 16, if not some intermediate point, repeat say three times. Now you can drive normall ie boost whenever at whatever level and it will continue to tweak itself from there.
Keeping below 3k will not allow it to do anything I'm afraid.
Whats probably happened in your case is that instead of advancing the multiplier it got unhappy and retarded it, that switches to reduced timing and rich fuel, car will feel terrible, so do the reset again and try the above.
the exhaust may have leaned it out along with the Hyperflow, although I hear people say it doesn't affect the maf I am extremely scepticle, if this is the case you_will_be_lean and that is why the car has pulled itself down. get someone to check it out for you (fueling) ie useing DD or select monitor.
to add, a Tek 3 should be set to get the best from the car and that means fueling leaned considerably from std, if it was not done with the exhaust it should need adjusting, also if the induction was fitted afterwards same thing, sounds as though it could defo be lean as you appear to have had the upgrade first.
cheers
bob
[Edited by Bob Rawle - 1/8/2004 10:36:04 PM]
When you reset the ecu you delete all your ignition and fuel learning, have to say if its not broke etc, car was fine so why do it?
In order to teach it you need to do the following, using a small amount of vacuum in say 4th gear run the car up_through_the_rev_range to about 5k, keep it on the vac, if you have to lift off eyc fine but repoeat untill you cover the range, this will start the fuel learning process, this only applies to closed loop off boost driving but should be done first, next, having got that done drive the car again in 4th using approx 0.6/0.7 bar boost up thro' the rev range to say 6500, this will allow the ecu to learn the advance multiplier it wants, if all is well it will ramp up to 16, if not some intermediate point, repeat say three times. Now you can drive normall ie boost whenever at whatever level and it will continue to tweak itself from there.
Keeping below 3k will not allow it to do anything I'm afraid.
Whats probably happened in your case is that instead of advancing the multiplier it got unhappy and retarded it, that switches to reduced timing and rich fuel, car will feel terrible, so do the reset again and try the above.
the exhaust may have leaned it out along with the Hyperflow, although I hear people say it doesn't affect the maf I am extremely scepticle, if this is the case you_will_be_lean and that is why the car has pulled itself down. get someone to check it out for you (fueling) ie useing DD or select monitor.
to add, a Tek 3 should be set to get the best from the car and that means fueling leaned considerably from std, if it was not done with the exhaust it should need adjusting, also if the induction was fitted afterwards same thing, sounds as though it could defo be lean as you appear to have had the upgrade first.
cheers
bob
[Edited by Bob Rawle - 1/8/2004 10:36:04 PM]
#6
Thanks for your advice Bob, will try that tomorrow. I have noticed reduced levels of boost since I reset the ECU which could, I assume, be for the reasons you suggest.
I have reset the ECU on several previous occassions and not had these problems, so hopefully allowing to gently learn will sort it out.
It has a 'standard' map in it for a car with a full system on it. I am planning to have it properly mapped to the actual car rather than a 'one size fits all'.
Just another one of those circustances where you realise that you learn something new every day
Cheers
I have reset the ECU on several previous occassions and not had these problems, so hopefully allowing to gently learn will sort it out.
It has a 'standard' map in it for a car with a full system on it. I am planning to have it properly mapped to the actual car rather than a 'one size fits all'.
Just another one of those circustances where you realise that you learn something new every day
Cheers
#7
Sorry, forgot to add, I have a SECS monitor in the car, but am unsure as to what AFR readings I should be expecting.
Appreciate this will vary throughout the range, and is difficult to answer, but are the max / min % readings I should be seeing?
Once again, thanks for taking the time to help
Appreciate this will vary throughout the range, and is difficult to answer, but are the max / min % readings I should be seeing?
Once again, thanks for taking the time to help
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#8
Another way of upping Ignition Advance Multiplier is the following:
With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into 3rd gear and bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for AT LEAST 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can see so hope I am correct) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16.
Good luck and tell my the results!
JIM
With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into 3rd gear and bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for AT LEAST 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can see so hope I am correct) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16.
Good luck and tell my the results!
JIM
#12
Ecu Specialist
You can't.
to say ... Jim you need to push the fuel learning into place first else the ecu can see rough knock sensor output from lean running as it comes on boost, with a WRX it can sometimes stay on closed loop even at 1 bar.
bob
[Edited by Bob Rawle - 1/9/2004 8:09:58 PM]
to say ... Jim you need to push the fuel learning into place first else the ecu can see rough knock sensor output from lean running as it comes on boost, with a WRX it can sometimes stay on closed loop even at 1 bar.
bob
[Edited by Bob Rawle - 1/9/2004 8:09:58 PM]
#13
Bob this method isn't mine I just repeat what have read in a forum posted from a Subaru mechanic so I am not sure if it works, just try to help and may be I'll try it myself in the future!
Of course the fuel learning process you mention is correct and works on all modern cars but I am curious if "my" method is related with a characteristic that have Subaru ECUs regarding MOT time thus the learning at 2500rpms where take place most cat efficiency tests!
JIM
Of course the fuel learning process you mention is correct and works on all modern cars but I am curious if "my" method is related with a characteristic that have Subaru ECUs regarding MOT time thus the learning at 2500rpms where take place most cat efficiency tests!
JIM
#14
Ecu Specialist
Hi Jim, the advance multiplier won't move unless the ecu sees some boost for a range of revs which are more than you indicated, to illustrate I normally set to 16 for mapping and then reduce back, reflash and re-teach once done, saves alot of time. Not saying the guy is wrong, but it hasn't worked that way for me and I have seen ecu's pull down due to fuel learning not being correct. Its the system I have evolved to minimise trouble. So what I know works is what I suggest. WRX behaviour is also different to STi. Dynamic ecu's are great, trouble is they are not that clever with it !!
cheers
bob
edited to add the mot points are all within the ecu closed loop fuel learning system on new age ecu's, drive by is different but thats not part of the MOT (yet)
[Edited by Bob Rawle - 1/9/2004 10:21:50 PM]
cheers
bob
edited to add the mot points are all within the ecu closed loop fuel learning system on new age ecu's, drive by is different but thats not part of the MOT (yet)
[Edited by Bob Rawle - 1/9/2004 10:21:50 PM]
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