Downpipe Removal
19 November 2000, 12:52 AM
#1
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Jantec
I had no probs when changing mine for a Scoobysport down pipe didnt change a gasket at the turbo end as there isn't one
and I reused the gasket at the other end - all were ok .
It's a bit fiddly (especially getting to the nut on the exit flange just near the gearbox dip stick, start with this one, if you loosen the others it will make this one tighter).
You need to remove the heat shield to get to these bolts – it took me around 4 hours to get the bugger off (the whole DP )and about 1 to but the new pipe on as it is a lot smaller and you can get to all the nuts. I wouldn’t try this without using some quality tools - oh and you may need a couple of extension bars too so you can reach the nuts and get a swing with the ratchet.
If I were you I would change the DP with a aftermarket one the difference is great
Hope this helps
Yee
I had no probs when changing mine for a Scoobysport down pipe didnt change a gasket at the turbo end as there isn't one
and I reused the gasket at the other end - all were ok .It's a bit fiddly (especially getting to the nut on the exit flange just near the gearbox dip stick, start with this one, if you loosen the others it will make this one tighter).
You need to remove the heat shield to get to these bolts – it took me around 4 hours to get the bugger off (the whole DP )and about 1 to but the new pipe on as it is a lot smaller and you can get to all the nuts. I wouldn’t try this without using some quality tools - oh and you may need a couple of extension bars too so you can reach the nuts and get a swing with the ratchet.
If I were you I would change the DP with a aftermarket one the difference is great
Hope this helps
Yee
19 November 2000, 10:36 AM
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Anyone got experience of taking off a downpipe for a UK MY96. (for a clutch change)?
Will it needs a new gasket or can it be bolted back on with no problems. looks like it bolts straight onto the turbo.
Jantec.
Will it needs a new gasket or can it be bolted back on with no problems. looks like it bolts straight onto the turbo.
Jantec.
19 November 2000, 03:57 PM
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Jantec1,
When I helped change part of my friends MY93 WRX exhaust, when the downpipe was removed, there was a gasket, and it was looking a little bit shabby. It is a metal laminate construction type of gasket, and cost about £13/15 ish from memory. It is identical on a 93 WRX as on a UK spec car.
I have to agre about using good quality tools though.
My friend has cheap tools, and we split one 14mm (I think) socket, and almost sheared the square drive off the end of one of his socket extension bars.
I suggest buying a full hexagon type socket if possible, similar to the type used with impact drivers, but not impact driver sockets, as they are much thicker, and you may not be able to get them to fit, in lieu of the bi-hexagonal style.
We were removing the turbo as well, and all the bolts around the D/P and turbo are TIGHT.
Cheers MTR
[This message has been edited by MTR (edited 19 November 2000).]
When I helped change part of my friends MY93 WRX exhaust, when the downpipe was removed, there was a gasket, and it was looking a little bit shabby. It is a metal laminate construction type of gasket, and cost about £13/15 ish from memory. It is identical on a 93 WRX as on a UK spec car.
I have to agre about using good quality tools though.
My friend has cheap tools, and we split one 14mm (I think) socket, and almost sheared the square drive off the end of one of his socket extension bars.
I suggest buying a full hexagon type socket if possible, similar to the type used with impact drivers, but not impact driver sockets, as they are much thicker, and you may not be able to get them to fit, in lieu of the bi-hexagonal style.
We were removing the turbo as well, and all the bolts around the D/P and turbo are TIGHT.
Cheers MTR
[This message has been edited by MTR (edited 19 November 2000).]
19 November 2000, 04:44 PM
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MTR & Jantec1,
Mine is a MY94 WRX, it had no gasket at the turbo but this may not have been the first time the DP was taken off. I don't know if it should have one, could some one let me know. With that said the joint is gas tight.
A point about the tools. Cheap stuff being used in this application Will certainly result in some grazed knuckles – I was using Snap-On flank drive sockets, however if you were to rush out and buy some they would probably cost more than the clutch.
Cheers
Yee
Mine is a MY94 WRX, it had no gasket at the turbo but this may not have been the first time the DP was taken off. I don't know if it should have one, could some one let me know. With that said the joint is gas tight.
A point about the tools. Cheap stuff being used in this application Will certainly result in some grazed knuckles – I was using Snap-On flank drive sockets, however if you were to rush out and buy some they would probably cost more than the clutch.
Cheers
Yee
19 November 2000, 05:05 PM
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Yee,
My friends car had a gasket that was showing signs of corrosion, and starting to look a bit dodgy.
He ordered a new on from the local dealer, who were not sure if a WRX was the same as a UK car.
I contacted another dealer whilst sat outside the garage in my car, and they said they had UK gaskets in stock.
We drove 25 miles to the second dealer with our old gasket in hand, It was the same.
So to get his car back on the road that day, he bought it, but still had to accept delivery of the first gasket, which he had already paid for.
He doesn't have a garage, and the weather forecast was for heavy rain for the days following. We decided to bite the bullet, spend £13 ish and get it back together on that day.
If yours is not leaking, then leave it.
If it aint broke, don't fix it.
But if I was swapping my downpipe, I would buy a new gasket, and fit it, to ensure there were no leaks.
As you found out, it isn't a 10 minute job to get it off, to fit a gasket, if you found that you had a leak after you fitted the new D/P.
My wifes 1993, 1.8 Sierra doesn't have a gasket between the cast iron exhaust manifold and the alloy cylinder head, and is fine.
I stripped it down just over 12 months ago for a leaking head gasket, and rebuilt it without exhaust gaskets, as there were non on, when I stripped it. Everything is OK.
We had owned the car since it was 18 months old, and I don't think anyone had touched it previously.
Cheers MTR
My friends car had a gasket that was showing signs of corrosion, and starting to look a bit dodgy.
He ordered a new on from the local dealer, who were not sure if a WRX was the same as a UK car.
I contacted another dealer whilst sat outside the garage in my car, and they said they had UK gaskets in stock.
We drove 25 miles to the second dealer with our old gasket in hand, It was the same.
So to get his car back on the road that day, he bought it, but still had to accept delivery of the first gasket, which he had already paid for.
He doesn't have a garage, and the weather forecast was for heavy rain for the days following. We decided to bite the bullet, spend £13 ish and get it back together on that day.
If yours is not leaking, then leave it.
If it aint broke, don't fix it.
But if I was swapping my downpipe, I would buy a new gasket, and fit it, to ensure there were no leaks.
As you found out, it isn't a 10 minute job to get it off, to fit a gasket, if you found that you had a leak after you fitted the new D/P.
My wifes 1993, 1.8 Sierra doesn't have a gasket between the cast iron exhaust manifold and the alloy cylinder head, and is fine.
I stripped it down just over 12 months ago for a leaking head gasket, and rebuilt it without exhaust gaskets, as there were non on, when I stripped it. Everything is OK.
We had owned the car since it was 18 months old, and I don't think anyone had touched it previously.
Cheers MTR
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20 November 2000, 09:19 AM
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All - thanks for your advice - I will order a gasket.
Moray - how can you change the clutch without removal of the downpipe - from what I can see the exhaust wraps around the box - is there room to slide the box backwards then and only remove the mid section exhaust?
Jantec1
Moray - how can you change the clutch without removal of the downpipe - from what I can see the exhaust wraps around the box - is there room to slide the box backwards then and only remove the mid section exhaust?
Jantec1
27 November 2000, 11:48 AM
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Moray,
I have just been given a quote for a clutch change (£300) and the workshop said that the clutch change is predicated on taking the d/p off!
I was thinking of getting them to fit the new d/p at the same time. Humph.
R
I have just been given a quote for a clutch change (£300) and the workshop said that the clutch change is predicated on taking the d/p off!
I was thinking of getting them to fit the new d/p at the same time. Humph.
R
28 November 2000, 05:28 PM
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Just changed my downpipe - all by myself.
First of all a BIG THANKS to Penni and Paul for letting me use their garage pit (and pumping out all the flood water!) and tools.
Getting the old d/p off was straightforward.
Remove intercooler (easier access) and then sprayed WD40 onto the nuts. Left for a cup of coffee and they came straight off.
The only big problems I had were
a) getting the gearbox bracket bolt off - couldn't do and had to take old d/p off with bracket still attached and then cut the bolt head off.
b) new downpipe needed it's mounting bracket to have a new bolt hole drilled to ensure satisfactory alignment without too much stress on the turbo.
Altogether, including coffee breaks and lunch 3.5 hours - of which an hour was fiddling about with the g/b bracket.
Old d/p (factory fitted) had a gasket at the turbo and at the exhaust end. Replaced with new gaskets fitted - thank you BRD.
The only glitch in the afternoon was stopping at a junction to see white smoke pouring out of the bonnet scoop - BIG PANIC.
Turned out it was the WD40 burning off where I had sprayed it on the turbo.
Even without LINK remapping the car is SO much more responsive. Overall a brilliant mod - and the sound
R
[This message has been edited by Rannoch (edited 28 November 2000).]
First of all a BIG THANKS to Penni and Paul for letting me use their garage pit (and pumping out all the flood water!) and tools.
Getting the old d/p off was straightforward.
Remove intercooler (easier access) and then sprayed WD40 onto the nuts. Left for a cup of coffee and they came straight off.
The only big problems I had were
a) getting the gearbox bracket bolt off - couldn't do and had to take old d/p off with bracket still attached and then cut the bolt head off.
b) new downpipe needed it's mounting bracket to have a new bolt hole drilled to ensure satisfactory alignment without too much stress on the turbo.
Altogether, including coffee breaks and lunch 3.5 hours - of which an hour was fiddling about with the g/b bracket.
Old d/p (factory fitted) had a gasket at the turbo and at the exhaust end. Replaced with new gaskets fitted - thank you BRD.
The only glitch in the afternoon was stopping at a junction to see white smoke pouring out of the bonnet scoop - BIG PANIC.
Turned out it was the WD40 burning off where I had sprayed it on the turbo.
Even without LINK remapping the car is SO much more responsive. Overall a brilliant mod - and the sound
R
[This message has been edited by Rannoch (edited 28 November 2000).]
28 November 2000, 08:09 PM
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Well, heres one for the books.
D/P is BPM Twin Dump - a work of art!
Centre and rear is HKS Hiper (also 3in and a very noisy standard exhaust, but in a good way!).
At full bore the car just sounds absolutely gorgeous, even better than before - induction whistle combined with a great roar.
BUT, at steady state cruise at low revs it is QUIETER. Car will more readily pootle along between 1500-2500 and so is quieter around town.
Power feels well up, over and above the Link remap
R
D/P is BPM Twin Dump - a work of art!
Centre and rear is HKS Hiper (also 3in and a very noisy standard exhaust, but in a good way!).
At full bore the car just sounds absolutely gorgeous, even better than before - induction whistle combined with a great roar.
BUT, at steady state cruise at low revs it is QUIETER. Car will more readily pootle along between 1500-2500 and so is quieter around town.
Power feels well up, over and above the Link remap
R
29 November 2000, 06:06 PM
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Did I read that right?
HKS Hiper is QUETER with D/P.......
Is that just with the BPM design, or across the board, was looking at Scooby Sport or the new Scoobymania down pipes to go on my HKS Hiper, but was worried about the noise (currently 98Db at 3500 revs when measured at the ring).
James.
HKS Hiper is QUETER with D/P.......
Is that just with the BPM design, or across the board, was looking at Scooby Sport or the new Scoobymania down pipes to go on my HKS Hiper, but was worried about the noise (currently 98Db at 3500 revs when measured at the ring).
James.
01 December 2000, 01:10 PM
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Thats cool Greg, but I was wondering about the D/P with the HKS Hiper Centre and Rear.
Is it really quieter than the standard D/P with HKS Hiper centre and rear and is that just the BPM product or do all D/Ps display this?
James.
Is it really quieter than the standard D/P with HKS Hiper centre and rear and is that just the BPM product or do all D/Ps display this?
James.
02 December 2000, 02:48 PM
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James,
don't let me mislead you.
I said it was quieter at very low revs, pootling around town. Even then it is marginal - but there is definately something in it. Simple I think that there is a little more torque at these low revs and so the car does not need to try so hard to maintain 30mph cruise in 4th.
On the motorway about the same - at full bore it is LOUDER but a great quality sound.
Noise tested 105db at 4500rpm - that is loud!
However I think the test was flawed and realistically it is probably 100db. For future noise tests I will be using the Hiper baffle insert to see if that will improve things.
don't let me mislead you.
I said it was quieter at very low revs, pootling around town. Even then it is marginal - but there is definately something in it. Simple I think that there is a little more torque at these low revs and so the car does not need to try so hard to maintain 30mph cruise in 4th.
On the motorway about the same - at full bore it is LOUDER but a great quality sound.
Noise tested 105db at 4500rpm - that is loud!
However I think the test was flawed and realistically it is probably 100db. For future noise tests I will be using the Hiper baffle insert to see if that will improve things.
03 December 2000, 09:32 AM
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Greg,
great d/p - can't say otherwise, it works very well.
Do your dB figures apply to a car without a cat in place - therefore straight through 3in pipe at 92db??
Cheers,
R
great d/p - can't say otherwise, it works very well.
Do your dB figures apply to a car without a cat in place - therefore straight through 3in pipe at 92db??
Cheers,
R
04 December 2000, 06:31 AM
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Rannoch,
In Australia the general consensus is to always have a resonator to prevent the "drone".
The BPM GT system has a resonator as a default that does drop the db levels down.
Add to the fact that if you drive without a cat in Australia you get an on the spot 4000pound fine by the loving MOT people.
Suffice to say most of the systems sold are with cat.
So to summise , the 92-94 db is with cat and resonator. Some people have posted as low as 88db and it does depend on testing station, amount of cloud cover, temp etc.
Greg
In Australia the general consensus is to always have a resonator to prevent the "drone".
The BPM GT system has a resonator as a default that does drop the db levels down.
Add to the fact that if you drive without a cat in Australia you get an on the spot 4000pound fine by the loving MOT people.
Suffice to say most of the systems sold are with cat.
So to summise , the 92-94 db is with cat and resonator. Some people have posted as low as 88db and it does depend on testing station, amount of cloud cover, temp etc.
Greg
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