To reset or not to reset
#1
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That is the question...
I am going to give Super Unleaded fuel a try, and having read lots of posts on the subject of resetting the ECU, I am still unsure about whether I need to do it, or if the ECU will adapt itself quickly.
I have a MY96 Turbo, it has always been run on standard unleaded. Do I need to reset the ECU manually????
Stuart
I am going to give Super Unleaded fuel a try, and having read lots of posts on the subject of resetting the ECU, I am still unsure about whether I need to do it, or if the ECU will adapt itself quickly.
I have a MY96 Turbo, it has always been run on standard unleaded. Do I need to reset the ECU manually????
Stuart
#3
Stuart,
Denz is right, the ECU will eventually tune itself to SUL but if you want to reset the ECU then its best to run a couple of tankfulls of SUL first then do a reset. Check out the FAQ on
Denz is right, the ECU will eventually tune itself to SUL but if you want to reset the ECU then its best to run a couple of tankfulls of SUL first then do a reset. Check out the FAQ on
#5
1 hour is more like the period of disconnect.
Also, dont go out and "give it death" as this will prob more likely retard optimal settings than allow you to maintain them. Just drive a 30-40 mile mixed, enthusiastic drive
S
Also, dont go out and "give it death" as this will prob more likely retard optimal settings than allow you to maintain them. Just drive a 30-40 mile mixed, enthusiastic drive
S
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...and can any electronics whizzos out there give us the half life of charge held by a capacitor.
Disconnecting the battery is hit and miss - there is an electronic method of resetting the ECU provided by Subaru - for situations where a SELECT MONITOR is not available. It actually clears the memory.
Try searching for ECU RESET - or go to the MRT Rally site where there are clear instructions on the protocol - it takes about ten minutes and is failsafe (and safe).
Oh, and BTW, if you have used UL and have changed to SUL it is a good idea to do a reset. Also, if you reset for SUL and change back to UL your car will feel like a dog as the ignition with be retarded.
Cheers,
R
Disconnecting the battery is hit and miss - there is an electronic method of resetting the ECU provided by Subaru - for situations where a SELECT MONITOR is not available. It actually clears the memory.
Try searching for ECU RESET - or go to the MRT Rally site where there are clear instructions on the protocol - it takes about ten minutes and is failsafe (and safe).
Oh, and BTW, if you have used UL and have changed to SUL it is a good idea to do a reset. Also, if you reset for SUL and change back to UL your car will feel like a dog as the ignition with be retarded.
Cheers,
R
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I reset my ECU this weekend using the MRT method.
My 'check engine' light flashed twice a second as per the instructions, but this was straight away as opposed to after a minute!
Anyway I drove enthusiasticly to a motorway, stuck it in 5th and accelerated hard. The boost was restricted to 0.5-0.6 bar until I stopped the car and unplugged the connectors. Is this correct? I've got a 95WRX if this helps.
I can't say I've noticed a difference - the difference should have been the millers octane booster I put in. It was a hot day when the ECU was reset, could that be significant?
cheers
Justin
My 'check engine' light flashed twice a second as per the instructions, but this was straight away as opposed to after a minute!
Anyway I drove enthusiasticly to a motorway, stuck it in 5th and accelerated hard. The boost was restricted to 0.5-0.6 bar until I stopped the car and unplugged the connectors. Is this correct? I've got a 95WRX if this helps.
I can't say I've noticed a difference - the difference should have been the millers octane booster I put in. It was a hot day when the ECU was reset, could that be significant?
cheers
Justin
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Justin
I noticed the same as you - check engine light comes on straight away after driving off, not after one minute. Mines a my99.
I believe the management is in limp home mode, hence the poor performance. The "reset ECU & give it a good blast" refers to the disconnect battery method.
You should give it a run up a hill after disconnecting the connectors
I noticed a large difference higher up the rev range - but that's probably because it had learned my normal "change at 5.5k" driving style.
Richard
I noticed the same as you - check engine light comes on straight away after driving off, not after one minute. Mines a my99.
I believe the management is in limp home mode, hence the poor performance. The "reset ECU & give it a good blast" refers to the disconnect battery method.
You should give it a run up a hill after disconnecting the connectors
I noticed a large difference higher up the rev range - but that's probably because it had learned my normal "change at 5.5k" driving style.
Richard
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Justin,
I am not sure what you did - but it don't sound right to me - giving it a thrash with the connectors still attached doesn't make any sense.
As soon as you start it up the check engine light will flash. Read the instructions again I guess.
R
I am not sure what you did - but it don't sound right to me - giving it a thrash with the connectors still attached doesn't make any sense.
As soon as you start it up the check engine light will flash. Read the instructions again I guess.
R
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Rannoch
These are the instructions I read:
(EDIT)
Turn on ignition and cycle the gearshift lever from park to neutral and back to park (auto transmission), depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle and hold for a few seconds, and then release. Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h.
ECU is now re-set
At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs.
I interperated that as the light flashes after driving for a minute.
Dowser
I assumed the ECU was learning the new conditions during this minute but maybe the ECU is just cleared? I'll give it another go and give it a good run once the connectors are disconnected. Any excuse eh?
Cheers
Justin
[This message has been edited by Jay m A (edited 22 August 2000).]
These are the instructions I read:
(EDIT)
Turn on ignition and cycle the gearshift lever from park to neutral and back to park (auto transmission), depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle and hold for a few seconds, and then release. Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h.
ECU is now re-set
At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs.
I interperated that as the light flashes after driving for a minute.
Dowser
I assumed the ECU was learning the new conditions during this minute but maybe the ECU is just cleared? I'll give it another go and give it a good run once the connectors are disconnected. Any excuse eh?
Cheers
Justin
[This message has been edited by Jay m A (edited 22 August 2000).]
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Just in,
my comment related to the thrashing it with the connectors still attached. When you first turn the key the light will flash - and then when the ECU has cleared its memory you will get steady state periodic flashing.
Then disconnect the connectors and drive normally - the ECU is reset.
R
my comment related to the thrashing it with the connectors still attached. When you first turn the key the light will flash - and then when the ECU has cleared its memory you will get steady state periodic flashing.
Then disconnect the connectors and drive normally - the ECU is reset.
R
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