JON HUGHES

Where does the EGT temperature probe have to be fiited,before or after the turbo?& where does one purchase such a device.
cheers jon

sunilp

This is one for Dr Jay, all round superhero and know-it-all...LOL

JON HUGHES

The legendary firefox as he was called the other day!!!

sunilp

The very one!

Here firefoxy, foxy, foxy...come on.......

JON HUGHES

Yer come on jay,you said the bbs was a bit quite!!!

JON HUGHES

Right then i'll answer me own question
after the turbo?

firefox

****... slow down... lol

I'm icqing..

for the most accurate reading.. it should go before the turbo... after both banks have join.... ie in the up pipe to the turbo.. but this means removing the headers.

The easiest place.. and nearly accurate is in the down pipe.. just after the turbo... before the lamba

Cheers,

J.

JON HUGHES

J
Can it be done in place or does the down pipe have to come off& is the down pipe thick enough to tap?

jon

Doc

To fit this sensor I'm sure you will need to drill a hole in the downpipe and then get a section of tube welded to the downpipe to take the sensor. This pipe will need to be long enough so that the tip of the sensor is in the exhaust gas flow. If the short section is attached at right angles you may have difficulty with clearance.

I have no experience with this but I did happen to be in a subaru specialist when one was being fitted to a non standard downpipe. Clearance was a problem.

firefox

Sorry about the delay..

Blame Sunil..

The down pipe will have to be removed.... quite simple to do... especially if its an aftermarket one

you will need a threaded boss welding (tigging) onto the down pipe... the EGT sensor whould have a threaded thingy (sorry brain has died) that will screw into the boss...

hope this helps...

costs about a tenner to have a boss made and welded on...

Cheers,

j.

AndyMc

I have often wondered how much temperature(amount of heat energy)the exhaust gas looses as it passes through the turbo,the temp must drop due to the fact that the gas pressure has reduced and the gas volume has increased.(basic physics)

The turbo must also remove a fair bit of sound energy from the exhaust gas as turbo cars only seem to need one silencer and normally aspirated cars with the same power output have two or three.

Has anybody managed to fit an EGT meter before the turbo?

Andy

firefox

Hi there...

Guess what?

My EGT is before the turbo... lol

J.

AndyMc

Your my hero (and not just mine i'll bet )

Have you ever had one fitted after the turbo,if yes did you notice much difference in temp between the locations especially at full throttle?

Andy

firefox

Hi there...

I never noticed your reply.. sorry

I havent had one after the turbo.... but Mark (R19KET) has the same car, but his probe is after the turbo...

We have compared readings... they are different.. but you learn to compensate if its after the turbo...

The readings will varying depending on boost/fuelling/ign.... we both have modded STI IV's....

J.

JON HUGHES

So urrr max temp = 950 deg,right FF?
Is this before the turbo?
How much variation was there between your car and marks....

cheers jon

R19KET

Jon,

950* is a bit high, more so with the IHI turbo's, that are renound for weak shafts. Personally, I would run a max of 900* before the turbo. I run low 800's just after. I don't know what the exact difference is, before/after.

It's a hard job to fit the K sensor before the turbo. There's a lot of dismantling to do as J said, but as J's car spends most of it's time in bits, it's much easier for him .

If you have a "de-cat" downpipe/system, you can fit the sensor quite easily after the turbo, if not the neatest way.

Depending on make, the tip of the sensor is usually 1/1.5mm. If you drill exactly the right size hole, the sensor can be kept in place with a large jubilee clip, and a small amount of exhaust paste. Any swarf (very little) will be safely blown straight out of the exhaust, the first time you start the car.

Not the tidiest way I know, but it will work fine. If you haven't got a de-cat system, the swarf may damage the cat's.

It would be a good idea to do both a down pipe, and egt at the same time. Pete at SS will weld the lug on for you.

Mark.

firefox

Hi there..

950 is too high... lol

that is the max temp for the IHI RHF range of turbos...

I was running too high...I admit it... lol.. but I couldnt help myself... lol

850-900 tops!!

standard cars run about 800-850 tops

Yep.. my car is in bits... currently under going Phase III.

The IHI turbos are weak.. not just the shaft.. but the roller bearing... it has to have a nice supply of oil... otherwise bye bye...

600 quid for a new turbo...

Mark.. u cowboy.. lol..But the easiest place is in the downpipe.... depending on which you go for... you could virtually thread the DP itself.. but I would suggets a threaded boss.

Cheers,

J.

JON HUGHES

Firefox,I know all to well how much those turbos cost!!!
This is one of the reasons i would like to get an egt fitted,just fed up of removing down pipes!!
What about if you drilled the hole with the engine running and brazed the flange on in place???
cheers jon

R19KET

J,

Harsh, very harsh. It's not how I've done it myself, but it's a quick, cheap way for people to solve a problem, and you know me, always quick, always cheap !!!!!.

Mark.

JON HUGHES

OK OK
Looks like the damn things got to come off again!!

p.s

once you hit max temp do you just drive slowly until it cools down?

jon

R19KET

Jon,

The EGT will only hit max temp under max boost, high rev's. As soon as you lift off, the EGT will reduce dramatically, by 200 deg' +.

Mark.

firefox

Hey Mark..

I didnt mean it to sound like I was having a go...

I am in a lucky situation with my workshop and tools...

The method you suggested will work just as well.. and is far easier...

It all depends on the probe... the one I used came with a threaded compression fitting... I had to thread mine.. as I'm running on the "pressure" side of the turbo..

Removing the DP is the best way... it doesnt take too long to do.. 40 mins (depends on DP and shielding).


Cheers,

J.

ps - As Mark has said the temp soon drops off when boost drops... I was running 1.5 at Donno.... virtually all the time... hence the heat (and running a little lean)...
pss - I would suggest an oil temp and oil pressure gauge too. Fancy a 3 gauge pod ? lol

R19KET

J,

I know you were .

Certainly anyone fitting an EGT before the turbo, should use a compression fitting.

I'm just glad that people are starting to take tuning a bit more seriously, and can see the benifits of the various gauges/meters.

I think that products like the Link KNOCK, and LAMBDA meters, are excellent tuning/safety tools, and for circa £50 + vat each, fantastic value for money.

But most of all, it means I won't have the only car, that looks like a flippin Christmas tree inside !!!!

Mark.

JON HUGHES

"WELL HELLO THERE CHILDREN"
So what we need is
1) boost gauge (FITTED)
2)egt gauge
3)oil temp gauge
4)oil pressure gauge
5)knock link
6)Lamda link
Along with the turbo timer(fitted)& apexi ebc to be fitted....

Where the **** do you even begin to fit all these items? let alone read them !!

Mark i beleive you also have the possum fitted to your car,christmas tree nah ,cockpit of a F16 more like!!!

p.s please has any body got any info on the apexi super avc type r...

cheers jon boy

firefox

Jon..

I virtually have them all fitted....

some of them are bloody difficult to fit...


My Link kit should be hear soon.. I hear Maclennan has shipped it...

ahhh...looking at the Apexi boost controller... now that will take up some room.. lol

I am considering putting the Lamba or Knock in the glovebox.. I know its useful to see them all the time.. I might make a new fascia... and hide the majority of the electronics else where.

JON HUGHES

Yes i know it's small J but size is'nt every thing(well maybe it is)??

So you have no idea how this gadget works then J,I don't believe you...LOL

Phoned dpmotorsport and said I had the same controller as on their web site,did'nt seem to know anything about it! how do these people become dealers?


Found some info on american mr2 web site
apex has a map sensor and solinoid valve instead of a stepping motor?

I think that the standard map sensor has to stay and the new one is spliced into original? vaccum pipe work..

Then 1 pipe from solinoid to actuator
2nd pipe from solinoid to turbo

Then 4 wires into ecu(have diagram for this part,not for plumbing)

wot do u reckon

cheers jon

firefox

Jon...

I might know a little... lol

Yep it uses a solenoid valve (uses pulses - varying duty cycle).. just like the wastegate solenoid fitted on your car...

It does use it's own pressure sensor (MAP sensor if you prefer).

You will get best results by "unplumbing" the standard wastegate solenoid.. and utilising the AVC-R instead.. but remember to keep the original solenoid plugged in otherwise you get a engine light come on.

Mail me offline..if you want..

J.

JON HUGHES

J
Can't seem to email you???