I know that there are recommended manufacturer mileages etc but let us assume a manufacturer says "Change every 10,000 miles" lets face it we wouldn't, cos we know it's twaddle and a sales ploy.
At what point over 10,000 miles, would you change? 20k, when fuel consumption increases, acceleration drops off, hesitation, more/less pops and bangs, dunno Just wondered. I've had my ITG in for way past 30k, took it out the other day, turned it round (Not over ) popped it back in. The air box was bone dry bar a light covering of oil at the bottom corner (Where you normally see 80 gazzillion litres when seeing the pictures in members gallery )
The car doesn't sound different, feel different etc, there seems to be no reason to change it, so why should I?
If someone tells me that the engine is being damaged because it isn't getting enough Air, I'll change it, but really, what's the point?

Mikey

 

i change my oil filter once it starts to smell a bit fishy

mikee

 

Sorry, not the oil filter, the Air one. lol at the thought of Mikee, bening over smelling his dip stick, checking for fishy smells

Mikey

 

Mikey,

<Mikey Mode>If I were you, I wouldn't bother changing the filter ever mate! In fact, I think people that have them are just being paraniod and I'm sure they don't really do anything at all and should take them out....</MM>

Having said that, personally, I'm happy for mine to be changed once every other year like the Service Schedule states, even though I only do low mileage and the filter is the OE one. The fact that you have an ITG means only ITG can probably advise, or ask an ITG dealer. Failing that, I'd change it at the intervals they recommend or once a year.

Matt

 

Morning Matt, cheers for the input

Air filters and thier role in the engine I understand, I understand why it's best to have filtered air (Though it's not vital) and I understand the effects of getting more air into a combustion engine. Mikey Mode doesn't kick in on issues of this nature, it raises it's head when people frighten other folk into believing that thier car is on the verge of blowing up because they don't have this bolt on or that bolt on.
Statements like "You gotta have a knock link otherwise you are going to hell" or "People who don't run with a Lambda link are playing with thier lives" or "If you have a de cat you MUST have a re-map otherwise you'll det yourself and your family into the great pit of doom"
That's what annoys me
Anyways, Thanks for ya input, i'm gonna change it but just wanted folk to know that my air filter has been in the car for way longer than the "information" said. And she's still running sweet (Touch wood )
Mikey

 

Better to make someone paraniod and not mod their car unless they understand what they are doing than encourage them to make changes blindly!!

But we've had this discussion before and neither of us convinced the other they were right so we'll agree to disagree....

Matt

 

I would simply check the element maybe once or twice a year, as it depends on how dusty its gets really. Only if it looks too dirty or black would I then consider changing.

 

ITG's last for yonks, 30k isn't too much. It's only the OEM paper filter that theoretically should be changed more regularly. That said the only thing that'll happen with a dirty OEM filter is a drop in performance, so I change mine fairly regularly as it's cheap...a fresh OEM filter is as good as an ITG according to Scoobysports own marketing anyway..the only advantage an ITG has is it keeps the 'as new' performance longer.
Rgds
Chucky

 

You'll know it's time to replace the filter when the drop off inperformance gets too much to bear, or the car dets itself to death. Is that inflamatory enough?

A customer of mine decided it was a good idea to cut out the bottom of the airbox to improve airflow. I'm sure it did, shame the air was being sucked off the road....

I got to see it again after he got only 240 ps on a rolling road where he'd previously got 260. Took quite a while for me to find the issue - I assumed he'd swapped the decat'ed downpipe for a catted one as a joke. Wasn't too funny though, considering the 3.5 degrees of timing being pulled (on a classic) - god knows what it was doing on the rolling road Airflow was down given the boost level, but MAF was OK.

The filter was absolutely covered in dust, dirt and grime. Replacing it restored normal operation, a return visit to the same rolling road as the 2 previous results netted him 265 ps.

Because the turbo has to work much hardware to get the air (with dirty filter there's a vacuum between filter and turbo), the turbo heats it more than normal. Increased charge temp, reduced performance.

It was an eye opener for me too - so much so that I'm waiting for the cleaning kit for my K&N cone (new stock of MAF's ordered too ).

Richard

 

My God Mikey... the king of "get in it and drive the f@cker" really has been killed by the purchase of those new clothes ( gauges) hasn't he

Change it when it says you need to change it. Why risk anything going bang for the sake of a few (more gauges) quid.....

Subaru do test these things - and whilst i agree it may be overkill - what if it goes wrong 100 miles after the scheduled change - you won't be buying any more kit to make you shed look more attractive (like mine ) - you'll be paying to fix it...



Jza

 

Dowser, thanks for the input and Chucky Matt, oh go on then, let's agree to disagree

Jza, what makes you think i'd pay to get it fixed?
a) It ain't gonna break and
b) My cars worth eff all since your type came out anyway. Cheaper to buy another than get it fixed

Oh i do just "Chuck it in and drive it", always have done always will. Oil Temp, AFR and Boost isn't going to tell me in isolation that my air filter needs changing are they?
Decatting, sticking a dawes on and an itg is hardly in the same league as porting, FMIC, Bigger turbo, etc is it? If i did all that then i would re-map and monitor, because it's daft not to. A uk car that's been "tickled" by comparison hardly needs "Monitor or Die" tactics to be adopted does it?


Mikey <Not sure about being a god >