scoobyecu map switch
#1
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Im having the 16.5psi map & switch fitted to the resistor to change between standard map & 16.5psi map, can you change whilst driving all will this damage the ecu in anyway? Thanks Ticky
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Why?? run on standard map for economy and switch back when not in economical mode.. for reducing boost back to standard to get around boost related problems.. another switch on the dash board..
I switch mine on tickover with no problem.. try not to..
but when you are in economy mode and than some pr1ck in <some other make of car> won't get out the way.. I tend to switch to Scoobyecu map.. dip clutch and flip switch and away we go.
I got it wrong once and the ecu went into safe mode..
So all in all it is probably not a good idea but....
JGM
I switch mine on tickover with no problem.. try not to..
but when you are in economy mode and than some pr1ck in <some other make of car> won't get out the way.. I tend to switch to Scoobyecu map.. dip clutch and flip switch and away we go.
I got it wrong once and the ecu went into safe mode..
So all in all it is probably not a good idea but....
JGM
#6
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You can do it at idle, I do it all the time.
Either at standstill, or as JGM says dip the clutch - wait for the revs to fall to tickover, flick the switch and away you go.
Either at standstill, or as JGM says dip the clutch - wait for the revs to fall to tickover, flick the switch and away you go.
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If you switch the map (from scoobyecu to standard), wouldn't the ecu start learning all over again each time (with that new map), getting used to the fuel etc, so you wouldn't get a good fuel economy? And when you switch from standard to the scoobyecu map, wouldn't the same happen and you wouldn't get optimal performance?
Or the maps work just as well?
I mean wouldn't it be better to just stay with the scoobyecu map permanently?
Or the maps work just as well?
I mean wouldn't it be better to just stay with the scoobyecu map permanently?
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#8
Yes
Stay with the scoobyECU map, just for the grin factor!
You don't need to nail it all the time, so can still get the good economy (!!) with the better spool up rate and higher boost when you need it!
Stay with the scoobyECU map, just for the grin factor!
You don't need to nail it all the time, so can still get the good economy (!!) with the better spool up rate and higher boost when you need it!
#9
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The learnt fuel data is not stored in the chip..
so it uses the same learn fuel data regardless of chip selection..
I reset the ecu fairly often anyway.
JGM
so it uses the same learn fuel data regardless of chip selection..
I reset the ecu fairly often anyway.
JGM
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Thanks guys just got mine back today no wires attached for the switch. How do you fit this switch.
Do I need to include the ji resistor in the loop from ecu to switch etc.
Some info would be great.
[Edited by ticky - 10/23/2003 8:50:33 PM]
Do I need to include the ji resistor in the loop from ecu to switch etc.
Some info would be great.
[Edited by ticky - 10/23/2003 8:50:33 PM]
#11
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I used the resistor in my switch wiring yes..
Just attach the wire to either side of the cut in J1.
If you can get shielded wire then all the better..
JGM
Just attach the wire to either side of the cut in J1.
If you can get shielded wire then all the better..
JGM
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Ive removed the metal casing from ecu & i can see that the j1 resistor has been replaced with a small adaptor socket thingy with 2 holes. Do i solder the shielded wire into these holes or remove the ecu board completey and soldered from underneath.
Do you have to use a special soldering iron & solder wire (dif voltage etc)as my standard soldering iron has a large tip & i was afraid i would cause more damage.
Do you have to use a special soldering iron & solder wire (dif voltage etc)as my standard soldering iron has a large tip & i was afraid i would cause more damage.
#17
It is possible though with some trickery to switch between 2 maps, both on external rom, whilst driving.
But I'm not doing it, before anyone asks, especially not using a clutch switch.
Paul
But I'm not doing it, before anyone asks, especially not using a clutch switch.
Paul
#18
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The 'adaptor' can have fine single gauge wire pushed into the holes. If you get the correct gauge then the retention springs in the socket will hold it in, hence no need for solder.
Network cable is probably the best as it is nice and slim and will pass through one of the existing screw holes.
You don't need to fit the resistor as it is '0'ohms, I just always supply it/send it back with the ECU so that you can plug it back into the socket and remove the chip if required (i.e when you sell the car).
Network cable is probably the best as it is nice and slim and will pass through one of the existing screw holes.
You don't need to fit the resistor as it is '0'ohms, I just always supply it/send it back with the ECU so that you can plug it back into the socket and remove the chip if required (i.e when you sell the car).
#19
Just to add..
I don't think you will be able to pass the wire though a screw hole as when you re-asemble the cover as the board will block the screw hole. You need to pass it though one of the small holes in the cover. Not sure what they are they for but the cable I used fitted great. You will see what I mean when you look at it..
I don't think you will be able to pass the wire though a screw hole as when you re-asemble the cover as the board will block the screw hole. You need to pass it though one of the small holes in the cover. Not sure what they are they for but the cable I used fitted great. You will see what I mean when you look at it..
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