OK. . . . got a 3 port solenoid sat here, what do i need to do to fit it?
#1
Hello
Gonna try this instead of my 2-port.
MY97UK standard ECU. I know the restrictor goes in the return line on a 3-port, and i'm 99.9% sure of where the hoses go etc.
I also understand that the smaller the restrictor the lower the boost.
Any other pointers???
Cheers
Iain
Gonna try this instead of my 2-port.
MY97UK standard ECU. I know the restrictor goes in the return line on a 3-port, and i'm 99.9% sure of where the hoses go etc.
I also understand that the smaller the restrictor the lower the boost.
Any other pointers???
Cheers
Iain
#2
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On my MY00 I put the top one to the compressor outlet, side one to the actuator, bottom one back to the inlet. No restrictors.
However, you will need to play with restrictor size (get a valve) to get the control in the right range for your ECU map. The more you restrict the vent hose to the inlet the lower the boost will be since you will be making the actuator diapragm see more of the boost.
With a 3 port the method that works well is to allow it to peak a bit in 5th gear and then it tends to control boost in the lower gears better than a 2 port and can do a proper closed loop setup.
However, I have only fiddled with this with ECU remapping, and use the added benefit of system to judge what gear it is in to boost the maximum duty cycle in lower gears to assist with boost (and breaking gearboxes).
However, you will need to play with restrictor size (get a valve) to get the control in the right range for your ECU map. The more you restrict the vent hose to the inlet the lower the boost will be since you will be making the actuator diapragm see more of the boost.
With a 3 port the method that works well is to allow it to peak a bit in 5th gear and then it tends to control boost in the lower gears better than a 2 port and can do a proper closed loop setup.
However, I have only fiddled with this with ECU remapping, and use the added benefit of system to judge what gear it is in to boost the maximum duty cycle in lower gears to assist with boost (and breaking gearboxes).
#4
Ecu Specialist
On a std car you do normally need to fit the restrictor into the vent pipe ... otherwise the boost can oscillate all over the place.
Be very wary doing it any other way as a sudden rise to high boost levels could result. Varying the size in the vent pipe allows you to tweak levels to suit.
Why are you fitting it ?
Be very wary doing it any other way as a sudden rise to high boost levels could result. Varying the size in the vent pipe allows you to tweak levels to suit.
Why are you fitting it ?
#5
Bob,
Just trying to get better control for the time being. I want it to go up and hold 17psi. With the 2-port it's spiky
I know i should get a mappable ecu, but at the moment things are very tight. I do eventually want to 'link'
Iain
Just trying to get better control for the time being. I want it to go up and hold 17psi. With the 2-port it's spiky
I know i should get a mappable ecu, but at the moment things are very tight. I do eventually want to 'link'
Iain
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#9
John
I was getting overboost by 2 - 2.5psi with the 2-port, so hopefully it will be better.
Thanks for your help John & Bob, much appreciated.
Bob, i will be round the duals in Cirencester, just incase your out and about and feel like giving me a hand
Anyway, i'm off out now.
Once again, thanks for your help
Cheers
Iain
I was getting overboost by 2 - 2.5psi with the 2-port, so hopefully it will be better.
Thanks for your help John & Bob, much appreciated.
Bob, i will be round the duals in Cirencester, just incase your out and about and feel like giving me a hand
Anyway, i'm off out now.
Once again, thanks for your help
Cheers
Iain
#10
Tried it out today, and it's definately better. . . . . BUT. . .
The solenoid got stuck in the closed (to actuator side) thus actuator seeing no pressure with a 20psi boost cut
If i can guarantee it not to stick then i can see definate advantages, but i'm not willing to risk it until i sort this problem.
I think the valve may be faulty - any ideas on how i can fix it?? Could it just need a blast out with carb cleaner etc , so i'm back to my 2-port for now
Cheers
Iain
The solenoid got stuck in the closed (to actuator side) thus actuator seeing no pressure with a 20psi boost cut
If i can guarantee it not to stick then i can see definate advantages, but i'm not willing to risk it until i sort this problem.
I think the valve may be faulty - any ideas on how i can fix it?? Could it just need a blast out with carb cleaner etc , so i'm back to my 2-port for now
Cheers
Iain
#12
John,
I had mistakenly put the actuator to the top vent, and the compressor side (from turbo) to the 90 degree port (i.e. just round the opposite way). Would this have caused the problem?
I now have the actuator to the 90 degree port, compressor side to the top vent, and the vent to atmosphere off the bottom vent. Haven't tested yet, will do tomorrow.
Iain
I had mistakenly put the actuator to the top vent, and the compressor side (from turbo) to the 90 degree port (i.e. just round the opposite way). Would this have caused the problem?
I now have the actuator to the 90 degree port, compressor side to the top vent, and the vent to atmosphere off the bottom vent. Haven't tested yet, will do tomorrow.
Iain
#15
This is really annoying now.
With both solenoids i'm getting a 2.5psi spike (have now got the pipes correctly connected on the 3-port). 3 port definately has more control and gives better spool-up, but still spikes by the same amount.
With the dawes, i'm getting a 2psi spike, and boost oscillated a bit
Connected the wastegate directly to the turbo outlet and boost went to 8psi (or there abouts).
Checked the dumpvalve and all appears to be correct (genuine subaru valve)
Two weeks ago, it was going straight to 17 psi and holding with very little overshoot (1psi at most).
Any pointers??? Or has my boost control been possessed
Cheers
Iain
PS. If bob or john could mail me their number, it might be better to actually talk if possible
With both solenoids i'm getting a 2.5psi spike (have now got the pipes correctly connected on the 3-port). 3 port definately has more control and gives better spool-up, but still spikes by the same amount.
With the dawes, i'm getting a 2psi spike, and boost oscillated a bit
Connected the wastegate directly to the turbo outlet and boost went to 8psi (or there abouts).
Checked the dumpvalve and all appears to be correct (genuine subaru valve)
Two weeks ago, it was going straight to 17 psi and holding with very little overshoot (1psi at most).
Any pointers??? Or has my boost control been possessed
Cheers
Iain
PS. If bob or john could mail me their number, it might be better to actually talk if possible
#18
Thanks John
I have already tried that though (used the festo valve on the bleed off side). If i took held boost past 14psi (by opening the restrictor) it would then spike again.
I have a feeling that there maybe something else wrong, as whatever boost control i use i'm getting the same spike. I have checked all boost hoses for leaks etc and rmoved intercooler to check for any abnormalities there.
The worst spike occurs at 3,000rpm WOT in 5th gear. Spiking to 19.5psi , then holding 15ish (on 3-port) and 16.5 (on 2-port).
FCL defend voltage is 3.76v to 4.2v.
Cheers
Iain
I have already tried that though (used the festo valve on the bleed off side). If i took held boost past 14psi (by opening the restrictor) it would then spike again.
I have a feeling that there maybe something else wrong, as whatever boost control i use i'm getting the same spike. I have checked all boost hoses for leaks etc and rmoved intercooler to check for any abnormalities there.
The worst spike occurs at 3,000rpm WOT in 5th gear. Spiking to 19.5psi , then holding 15ish (on 3-port) and 16.5 (on 2-port).
FCL defend voltage is 3.76v to 4.2v.
Cheers
Iain
#19
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Too high a defend point would account for spikes, too low would give high held boost. To make a closed loop control system with a fuel cut defender you really need the type that alters the slope rather than puts a notch in it. This way you just change the boost target that the closed loop system works towards. So if you want to raise held boost from 14.5 to 17.5 PSI then you need to make 17.5 PSI appear to be the same voltage as 14.5 PSI. It really is a lot of fiddling and you would be better using a Dawes if you are struggling!
#20
Thanks John,
So let me get this right. . . . . . . .
If i set the defend zone at 3.8v to 4.2v this would be more spiky than from say 3.5v to 4.2v.
Would i be better off with an HKS FCD?
The reason i don't like the dawes is because if there are any problems then the ECU has no way of reducing boost.
Iain
So let me get this right. . . . . . . .
If i set the defend zone at 3.8v to 4.2v this would be more spiky than from say 3.5v to 4.2v.
Would i be better off with an HKS FCD?
The reason i don't like the dawes is because if there are any problems then the ECU has no way of reducing boost.
Iain
#22
Had a bit of a brainstorm this morning.
I remember about a year or so ago, i had a problem with my map sensor and boost shot up to 20psi in 5th gear (without FCL). The sensor had gone faulty and was only working up to 3v.
So with that in mind I'm now tempted to try defending from 3.78v (1bar) to 4.2v. This should allow the ECU to see a bit more boost and therefore 'grab' hold of the spike a little bit better, and lessen it.
Could too low a defend point account for the boost spikes?
Iain
[Edited by iain atkins - 2/10/2003 9:33:14 AM]
I remember about a year or so ago, i had a problem with my map sensor and boost shot up to 20psi in 5th gear (without FCL). The sensor had gone faulty and was only working up to 3v.
So with that in mind I'm now tempted to try defending from 3.78v (1bar) to 4.2v. This should allow the ECU to see a bit more boost and therefore 'grab' hold of the spike a little bit better, and lessen it.
Could too low a defend point account for the boost spikes?
Iain
[Edited by iain atkins - 2/10/2003 9:33:14 AM]
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