WEBSTER

I have a 94 wagon running 0.77 bar boost constant 0.85 bar peak is this correct if not what should it be running (it has always run at this pressure regardless of exhaust,dump valve,air filter or fuel type (e.g optimax,super plus, ordinary unleaded, or optimax with octane booster)
IS THIS RIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

mark@wrx

Sounds like you have the same readings as my 93 WRX. They should boost to 1 bar but some suffer with an ECU glitch that only allows these levels of boost so I am told.

marty_t3

My 94 wagon is only running .6 bar. There's plenty of torque low down in the rev range but it's a waste of time taking it over 4500. Any idea what it should be peaking at /holding? I think the early TD04 wagons are pretty much a rarity so not many folk know exactly what it should be doing. My has the V7 ecu, any idea which one you're running with?

dowser

.6bar suggests your solenoid is not working - the wastegate actuator cracking pressure is around .7 bar.

Richard

WEBSTER

where will i find if it's a v7 is it written on the ecu

RiSKy

This all sounds a bit familuar my 95wrx(240) runs at .75 held/.85 peak. No one really seems to know what boost there supposed to run at. I'm considering getting a 260ecu for it.

Does anyone realy know what boost there supposed to run at..

BoxerFlat4

Well, mines running at 1.3 bar at the moment, with no mods....

marty_t3

Webster, It's written in big letters on top of the ECU box. You don't have to remove the ECU to see it. You should be able to see it by pulling back the carpet and taking off the metal plate that covers the ECU box. 4 or 5 bolts holding the plate on IIRC.

As for the Solenoid on my car..... I've noticed it constantly clicks when the engine is off and the ignition set to run. Is it supposed to?? I was hoping to get it cleaned this weekend but it's gonna have to wait till next week.

BoxerFlat4

marty_t3 -

Are you aware of the procedure for resetting the ECU ? If you are, it sounds like the green and black plugs are still plugged together, check under your steering column in the wiring and you should see a male and female green plug, and a male and female black plug. They should be disconnected, if not, then disconnect them !

If your not sure what the hell I'm on about, do a search on ECU reset. It should provide you with the details.

marty_t3

That occured to me too just the other night. The car runs very badly when cold and idles a bit on the wild side so i thought it may be something to do with the diag/reset plugs.

I had a quick look the other night and couldn't even find the plugs. I'll check again tonight... even if i have to rip the dash out.

Saying that, I'd have thought the CEL would have flashed if the plugs were still connected.

BoxerFlat4

If memory serves me correctly, just having one of these plugs (black?) connected will put the solenoid into self test mode. You may not get the CEL on, it's worth checking the plugs either way.

Basically, about 4 inches directly above where your feet sit on the pedals is where you should be looking. I find I have to push the seat back all the way before I can get ny head in there.

marty_t3

The suspense in killing me now... The car's been a bi+ch since i bought it and i'd be horrified to think that they've been set that way since it was serviced by a scoob mechanic before i picked it up.

early lunch for me today... i'm off to check now.

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

suddenly marty likes his car (hope this is the problem)

[Edited by P20SPD - 12/16/2002 12:21:07 PM]

BoxerFlat4

If only all problems with these cars were as easy to fix..... fingers crossed for you mate !

marty_t3

K... I've just done my back in and my knees are soaked.

However......I found the connectors and they were both hooked up. Disconnected them and WOO feckin HOO!!!!! i have boost (well, an extra few psi, now reading about .8 bar peak and holding at around .7). Car is ticking over fine now and idle is steady.

That's the first time i've smiled since i bought the car Just another 2 or 3 problems to get fixed and i might be able to get it sold

Now.... when i hit max boost there's a noticable stutter before the boost tails off a bit (kinda like fuel cut but not anywhere near as severe). Any idea what that could be?

BoxerFlat4

Bill's in the post...

Good to here it's boosting better now, although I would've thought it could manage more than 0.8 PSI max. IIRC, roughly 1 bar should be expected, I suppose the gauge may not be too accurate.

You say you've got a TD04 - what leads you to this ? Early Jap cars should have the TD05, as mine does, not too sure about early UK cars though. My STI 1 boosts up to 1.3 PSI, thats on the TD05, if it is a TD04 power may not increase beyond .8 PSI anyway. As for the stutter, could be many things. I'd be a bit worried about the solenoid, if it's been in self-test mode for a long period that may of affected its performance.

marty_t3

The car is definitely fitted with a TD04 as i had it replaced a fortnight ago (I think all pre 95 wrx wagons were TD04s). I'd guess it should still be able to boost to 1 bar despite it being smaller. The old Garret T2 will push a bar no problem and it's a fair bit smaller than the TD04.

It's a Jap car so i don't really want to turn up the boost without a map for uk fuel anyway. Just getting rid of the stutter will do me. I need the car running a bit smoother so I can sell it.

As for the boost solenoid... any idea how much it'd cost for a replacement?? or would I be better off just bypassing it with a bleed valve and keeping the peak boost at the .8?

AJbaseBloke

Lemme get me broken record out

If you have not already, give the earthing mod a shot - a cheapo way of removing that issue from play. A few quids worth of connectors and cable should smooth things out a wee bit (rumours of it making you more attractive to women are common, too - according to Floyd ).

HTH

marty_t3

Earth mod's already been done. Just seems to stutter when it hits peak boost (in 2nd usually). Other than that it seems smooth enough through the revs.