Machine polishing and what polisher??
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,151
Likes: 7
From: Shropshire
Machine polishing and what polisher??
Ok folks, I’m guessing there’s a few of you on here that own one and do your own cars? I’m looking at buying a good polisher BUT I’ve never done it before. What are the do’s and don’t and also what waxes etc etc to use?? Any help/ info greatly appreciated
Ta, Pete
Ta, Pete
Pete have you had a look on a website called Detailing World ? When i had mine i had it ceramic coated well worth the price.
Scooby Regular
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 157
Likes: 7
From: Scotland
You want a dual action rather than a rotary polisher - it makes it much harder to do any damage although you won't get as much correction as a pro with a rotary polisher.
I had FANTASTIC results on my Version 6 Limited STi Wagon (same colour as your car) using my dual action machine (DAS-6 Pro) and two grades of Meguiars polish (Ultra Finishing and Ultra Cut) combined with two different pad types (a softer one for the fine polish and a harder one for the aggressive compound). I was able to 99% eliminate some really nasty scratches from one of the rear doors as well as lift the overall appearance of the car.
Polished Bliss are a great source of info (check out their website).
I had FANTASTIC results on my Version 6 Limited STi Wagon (same colour as your car) using my dual action machine (DAS-6 Pro) and two grades of Meguiars polish (Ultra Finishing and Ultra Cut) combined with two different pad types (a softer one for the fine polish and a harder one for the aggressive compound). I was able to 99% eliminate some really nasty scratches from one of the rear doors as well as lift the overall appearance of the car.
Polished Bliss are a great source of info (check out their website).
Last edited by HonestIago; Aug 13, 2019 at 05:36 PM.
Scooby Regular
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 64
Likes: 7
From: sutton coldfield
First off. If this is something you've never done before. I would recommend not working straight on your car. Regardless of the relative "safety" of a DA as mentioned below, you can still do damage with poor control and technique when using the machine.
The key is practice, practice practice. I would always recommend a first time use should be on a scrap panel. Get a feel for the weight of the machine and how to control it across the paint. How much pressure to apply, what is too much, what is too little. Learn how the pads/compound combinations work down and what results they give. This is all very much before you get anywhere near your car with the machine. The cost of a subaru bonnet from a scrap car is much less than the cost of rectifying a mistake you make and burning / etching / damaging the clear coat on your bonnet.
With that said. I would definitely go for a DA polisher. Something like the DAS Pro 6 is an ideal enthusiast/starter machine. It has variable speed and its weighted quite nice. Reliable and brushes are easily changed. I would say that the polishing head may want to be changed out for something weighted better but you won't really notice that until you have experience and compare it to a much more expensive machine. You'd be looking at spending roughly £165 new for a kit. If you are looking to buy something i'd highly recommend going to David at Perfectly Cleaned. Not only is he straight talking, his business is spot on, service is great etc. etc.
If you go for a kit, that is good, will give you a starter pack, often with the likes of Meguiars 105 and 205 compounds. 105 is the cutting compound for removing the damage to your clear coat and the 205 is for finishing the correction down so that is enhancing your finish. It will also hopefully come with pads - usually 3, heavy, medium and finishing pads. If you get a machine on its own. You will need to buy these items separately. I would recommended getting a number of different pads as you can easily ruin and damage pads with little experience in your back pocket. People often think its pad failure - they collapse in the centre, disintegrate, tear, come of the backing - but its not normally the pad. Usually its poor technique and too much heat being put into a single pad that causes the damage. This comes back to my first point - all about practice. Learning the different pads and the use of the machine. All aids in a better finish.
In terms of the finish and what you are looking for - this is all in the work and time you put in. If you want a full correction you can put 12 hours a day into the paint for 3 days and still not be 100% corrected. With experience and effort you can get a good finish in a single stage polish in maybe a day. But much of the finish is down to the time you take preparing.
One thing i would say is consider where you can do this. You'll be working for a good number of hours. Most if not all products should not be applied in direct sunlight or high temperatures and working on car cleaning like this outdoors can and does impact technique, use of products and results. If you have to do it outside then so be it but try and choose a day that isn't hot and the car panels are cool if not cold. Out of direct sunlight. If you really can't. Then it can and likely will effect your finish but i just have to say it to keep you aware.
If you are happy to continue this then these are (some of) the steps i take and equipment/products used (no brands given)
First stage - Pre Wash
1. Citrus Cleanser Pre Wash (removes stubborn road film/bugs/layers of muck). Put it directly on a dry car, let it cling and soften the dirt before you go at it with any pressure washer. Else you run the risk of dragging particles along wiht the water over the car. Making your job larger.
2. Snow Foam - You can maybe skip the first stage if you need to or don't feel the car is that dirty. Snow Foam gives you a thick clinging foam that softens and takes dirt deposits with it as it dwells and comes off the car.
3. Whilst the snow foam is dwelling - Use a soft brush to do hard to reach areas and to make sure hte foam is worked into the areas that maybe aren't being captured at that point. Wing Mirrors, grills, corners etc.
4. Rince. Use your pressure washer to now rinse the car of foam. Start at the top of the car and work down.
Stage 2 - Wash & Dry
Two Bucket Method. Grit Guards. Wash Mitt. Brushes
1. Good quality concentrate shampoo and mix with pressure washer to foam it up.
2. Wash the car top to bottom. Rinse the mitt in the rinse bucket to remove debris and then back to the clean water and then onto the car. Don't wash in circular motions. I prefer to go in squares, with as little force as possible.
3. Rinse. Make sure you rinse the car thoroughly.
4. Dry. Use a good quality, high gsm drying towel. Its worth spending money on a good one as they are invaluable at this stage.
Stage 3 - Decontamination
Clay Bar/Clay Mitt. Iron Fallout Remover.
1. Use the fallout remover. Spray sills, bottom of doors, arches, rear with Fallout remover to remove heaviest iron deposits from brakes/exhausts. This is not wheel cleaner - that is a separate product. Leave to dwell and react - you'll see it change colour. Once done, don't let it dry on the car. rinse.
2. Use a QD or Clay Lube (often same kind of stuff) and spray a panel and then section by section using a bar (medium grade) go over the paint in straight lines till it feels smooth and has removed any tar or debris left over from previous wash steps. Now. You have the option to purchase a quality clay mitt and these will save a lot of time. Its personal preference. I used to use just bars. But a mitt came into my possession and i've never looked back. They are quicker. Go in straight lines. Make sure to lube the paint and mitt to make sure you are minimising contact iwth the surface and its lubricated and do this over the entire car. You will know when you are finished when you can run your fingers over the paint and it glides, feels like glass and no longer grabs the mitt. Depending on the state of the paint this can take some time if the car has never been clayed before. Take your time. Use lots of spray to lubricate the process and you'll minimise risk of further damage. You can do this on glass and plastics as well.
3. You can choose to wash the car again as per step 2 above at this point.
At this stage i would say that you are pretty much ready to begin the correction phase. There are other steps that can be taken on top of the above but i've left some out that aren't specifically necessary.
Stage. 4
Inspect and prep your paint for polishing
1. Check panels for laquer peel and damage and mark these off straight away. You don't want to cause further damage if you don't need too.
2. Tape up the panel gaps. Using painters tape (masking tape if you don't have it). Mask up panel gaps and split up larger panels into smaller workable sections.
3. Mask off plastics. Trim etc. Everything you don't want polish effecting etc.
4. You are now ready to polish.
Stage 5/6/7 - Cutting/Finishing/Protection
This is the stage of the work which will give you the clarity and gloss you are after. The deep glass like shine you see on show cars isn't from a wax/ceramic or sealant. Those are all protective layers sealing in the finish that you've got through your cutting and finishing stages.
I can (but wont here) give detail of methods and techinques with a polisher. There are videos on you tube but the key again is practice practice practice. I will reitterate this will take at least 12 hours in one day to do an "ok" job. I could easily take up to 3-4 days per full correction detail for a customers car. Some of hte work i've done for the classic car show took me that long if not longer. Putting 30+hrs into the paint work correction itself before you touch the wheels/interior/trims etc. An ok 1 day enthusiast job is fine. But its all about time patience and technique. So all considerations. Most of your finish though will come through how well you've prep'd the car before hand.
In terms of how you then protect your work. I would not recommend ceramic coating the car yourself if you haven't the experience. You can cause yourself some big headaches. A good sealant, something si02 infused or something ceramic tech based can offer anything up to maybe 8-12 months protection depending on how well the car is prepared and how well the product is applied. This can enhance the gloss and depth but its more used to protect the work you've done. I would recommend a good ceramix wax or a hybrid sealant. Sealant is easy to apply if you follow the instructions. But can go wrong if you use it in the sun or don't pay attention and let it flash too long etc.
Any questions feel free to pm or post back. Happy to help.
Scooby Regular
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,118
Likes: 673
From: north west
Hi. I have some experience and happy to help and offer any advice that could help you out in your quest.
First off. If this is something you've never done before. I would recommend not working straight on your car. Regardless of the relative "safety" of a DA as mentioned below, you can still do damage with poor control and technique when using the machine.
The key is practice, practice practice. I would always recommend a first time use should be on a scrap panel. Get a feel for the weight of the machine and how to control it across the paint. How much pressure to apply, what is too much, what is too little. Learn how the pads/compound combinations work down and what results they give. This is all very much before you get anywhere near your car with the machine. The cost of a subaru bonnet from a scrap car is much less than the cost of rectifying a mistake you make and burning / etching / damaging the clear coat on your bonnet.
With that said. I would definitely go for a DA polisher. Something like the DAS Pro 6 is an ideal enthusiast/starter machine. It has variable speed and its weighted quite nice. Reliable and brushes are easily changed. I would say that the polishing head may want to be changed out for something weighted better but you won't really notice that until you have experience and compare it to a much more expensive machine. You'd be looking at spending roughly £165 new for a kit. If you are looking to buy something i'd highly recommend going to David at Perfectly Cleaned. Not only is he straight talking, his business is spot on, service is great etc. etc.
If you go for a kit, that is good, will give you a starter pack, often with the likes of Meguiars 105 and 205 compounds. 105 is the cutting compound for removing the damage to your clear coat and the 205 is for finishing the correction down so that is enhancing your finish. It will also hopefully come with pads - usually 3, heavy, medium and finishing pads. If you get a machine on its own. You will need to buy these items separately. I would recommended getting a number of different pads as you can easily ruin and damage pads with little experience in your back pocket. People often think its pad failure - they collapse in the centre, disintegrate, tear, come of the backing - but its not normally the pad. Usually its poor technique and too much heat being put into a single pad that causes the damage. This comes back to my first point - all about practice. Learning the different pads and the use of the machine. All aids in a better finish.
In terms of the finish and what you are looking for - this is all in the work and time you put in. If you want a full correction you can put 12 hours a day into the paint for 3 days and still not be 100% corrected. With experience and effort you can get a good finish in a single stage polish in maybe a day. But much of the finish is down to the time you take preparing.
One thing i would say is consider where you can do this. You'll be working for a good number of hours. Most if not all products should not be applied in direct sunlight or high temperatures and working on car cleaning like this outdoors can and does impact technique, use of products and results. If you have to do it outside then so be it but try and choose a day that isn't hot and the car panels are cool if not cold. Out of direct sunlight. If you really can't. Then it can and likely will effect your finish but i just have to say it to keep you aware.
If you are happy to continue this then these are (some of) the steps i take and equipment/products used (no brands given)
First stage - Pre Wash
1. Citrus Cleanser Pre Wash (removes stubborn road film/bugs/layers of muck). Put it directly on a dry car, let it cling and soften the dirt before you go at it with any pressure washer. Else you run the risk of dragging particles along wiht the water over the car. Making your job larger.
2. Snow Foam - You can maybe skip the first stage if you need to or don't feel the car is that dirty. Snow Foam gives you a thick clinging foam that softens and takes dirt deposits with it as it dwells and comes off the car.
3. Whilst the snow foam is dwelling - Use a soft brush to do hard to reach areas and to make sure hte foam is worked into the areas that maybe aren't being captured at that point. Wing Mirrors, grills, corners etc.
4. Rince. Use your pressure washer to now rinse the car of foam. Start at the top of the car and work down.
Stage 2 - Wash & Dry
Two Bucket Method. Grit Guards. Wash Mitt. Brushes
1. Good quality concentrate shampoo and mix with pressure washer to foam it up.
2. Wash the car top to bottom. Rinse the mitt in the rinse bucket to remove debris and then back to the clean water and then onto the car. Don't wash in circular motions. I prefer to go in squares, with as little force as possible.
3. Rinse. Make sure you rinse the car thoroughly.
4. Dry. Use a good quality, high gsm drying towel. Its worth spending money on a good one as they are invaluable at this stage.
Stage 3 - Decontamination
Clay Bar/Clay Mitt. Iron Fallout Remover.
1. Use the fallout remover. Spray sills, bottom of doors, arches, rear with Fallout remover to remove heaviest iron deposits from brakes/exhausts. This is not wheel cleaner - that is a separate product. Leave to dwell and react - you'll see it change colour. Once done, don't let it dry on the car. rinse.
2. Use a QD or Clay Lube (often same kind of stuff) and spray a panel and then section by section using a bar (medium grade) go over the paint in straight lines till it feels smooth and has removed any tar or debris left over from previous wash steps. Now. You have the option to purchase a quality clay mitt and these will save a lot of time. Its personal preference. I used to use just bars. But a mitt came into my possession and i've never looked back. They are quicker. Go in straight lines. Make sure to lube the paint and mitt to make sure you are minimising contact iwth the surface and its lubricated and do this over the entire car. You will know when you are finished when you can run your fingers over the paint and it glides, feels like glass and no longer grabs the mitt. Depending on the state of the paint this can take some time if the car has never been clayed before. Take your time. Use lots of spray to lubricate the process and you'll minimise risk of further damage. You can do this on glass and plastics as well.
3. You can choose to wash the car again as per step 2 above at this point.
At this stage i would say that you are pretty much ready to begin the correction phase. There are other steps that can be taken on top of the above but i've left some out that aren't specifically necessary.
Stage. 4
Inspect and prep your paint for polishing
1. Check panels for laquer peel and damage and mark these off straight away. You don't want to cause further damage if you don't need too.
2. Tape up the panel gaps. Using painters tape (masking tape if you don't have it). Mask up panel gaps and split up larger panels into smaller workable sections.
3. Mask off plastics. Trim etc. Everything you don't want polish effecting etc.
4. You are now ready to polish.
Stage 5/6/7 - Cutting/Finishing/Protection
This is the stage of the work which will give you the clarity and gloss you are after. The deep glass like shine you see on show cars isn't from a wax/ceramic or sealant. Those are all protective layers sealing in the finish that you've got through your cutting and finishing stages.
I can (but wont here) give detail of methods and techinques with a polisher. There are videos on you tube but the key again is practice practice practice. I will reitterate this will take at least 12 hours in one day to do an "ok" job. I could easily take up to 3-4 days per full correction detail for a customers car. Some of hte work i've done for the classic car show took me that long if not longer. Putting 30+hrs into the paint work correction itself before you touch the wheels/interior/trims etc. An ok 1 day enthusiast job is fine. But its all about time patience and technique. So all considerations. Most of your finish though will come through how well you've prep'd the car before hand.
In terms of how you then protect your work. I would not recommend ceramic coating the car yourself if you haven't the experience. You can cause yourself some big headaches. A good sealant, something si02 infused or something ceramic tech based can offer anything up to maybe 8-12 months protection depending on how well the car is prepared and how well the product is applied. This can enhance the gloss and depth but its more used to protect the work you've done. I would recommend a good ceramix wax or a hybrid sealant. Sealant is easy to apply if you follow the instructions. But can go wrong if you use it in the sun or don't pay attention and let it flash too long etc.
Any questions feel free to pm or post back. Happy to help.
First off. If this is something you've never done before. I would recommend not working straight on your car. Regardless of the relative "safety" of a DA as mentioned below, you can still do damage with poor control and technique when using the machine.
The key is practice, practice practice. I would always recommend a first time use should be on a scrap panel. Get a feel for the weight of the machine and how to control it across the paint. How much pressure to apply, what is too much, what is too little. Learn how the pads/compound combinations work down and what results they give. This is all very much before you get anywhere near your car with the machine. The cost of a subaru bonnet from a scrap car is much less than the cost of rectifying a mistake you make and burning / etching / damaging the clear coat on your bonnet.
With that said. I would definitely go for a DA polisher. Something like the DAS Pro 6 is an ideal enthusiast/starter machine. It has variable speed and its weighted quite nice. Reliable and brushes are easily changed. I would say that the polishing head may want to be changed out for something weighted better but you won't really notice that until you have experience and compare it to a much more expensive machine. You'd be looking at spending roughly £165 new for a kit. If you are looking to buy something i'd highly recommend going to David at Perfectly Cleaned. Not only is he straight talking, his business is spot on, service is great etc. etc.
If you go for a kit, that is good, will give you a starter pack, often with the likes of Meguiars 105 and 205 compounds. 105 is the cutting compound for removing the damage to your clear coat and the 205 is for finishing the correction down so that is enhancing your finish. It will also hopefully come with pads - usually 3, heavy, medium and finishing pads. If you get a machine on its own. You will need to buy these items separately. I would recommended getting a number of different pads as you can easily ruin and damage pads with little experience in your back pocket. People often think its pad failure - they collapse in the centre, disintegrate, tear, come of the backing - but its not normally the pad. Usually its poor technique and too much heat being put into a single pad that causes the damage. This comes back to my first point - all about practice. Learning the different pads and the use of the machine. All aids in a better finish.
In terms of the finish and what you are looking for - this is all in the work and time you put in. If you want a full correction you can put 12 hours a day into the paint for 3 days and still not be 100% corrected. With experience and effort you can get a good finish in a single stage polish in maybe a day. But much of the finish is down to the time you take preparing.
One thing i would say is consider where you can do this. You'll be working for a good number of hours. Most if not all products should not be applied in direct sunlight or high temperatures and working on car cleaning like this outdoors can and does impact technique, use of products and results. If you have to do it outside then so be it but try and choose a day that isn't hot and the car panels are cool if not cold. Out of direct sunlight. If you really can't. Then it can and likely will effect your finish but i just have to say it to keep you aware.
If you are happy to continue this then these are (some of) the steps i take and equipment/products used (no brands given)
First stage - Pre Wash
1. Citrus Cleanser Pre Wash (removes stubborn road film/bugs/layers of muck). Put it directly on a dry car, let it cling and soften the dirt before you go at it with any pressure washer. Else you run the risk of dragging particles along wiht the water over the car. Making your job larger.
2. Snow Foam - You can maybe skip the first stage if you need to or don't feel the car is that dirty. Snow Foam gives you a thick clinging foam that softens and takes dirt deposits with it as it dwells and comes off the car.
3. Whilst the snow foam is dwelling - Use a soft brush to do hard to reach areas and to make sure hte foam is worked into the areas that maybe aren't being captured at that point. Wing Mirrors, grills, corners etc.
4. Rince. Use your pressure washer to now rinse the car of foam. Start at the top of the car and work down.
Stage 2 - Wash & Dry
Two Bucket Method. Grit Guards. Wash Mitt. Brushes
1. Good quality concentrate shampoo and mix with pressure washer to foam it up.
2. Wash the car top to bottom. Rinse the mitt in the rinse bucket to remove debris and then back to the clean water and then onto the car. Don't wash in circular motions. I prefer to go in squares, with as little force as possible.
3. Rinse. Make sure you rinse the car thoroughly.
4. Dry. Use a good quality, high gsm drying towel. Its worth spending money on a good one as they are invaluable at this stage.
Stage 3 - Decontamination
Clay Bar/Clay Mitt. Iron Fallout Remover.
1. Use the fallout remover. Spray sills, bottom of doors, arches, rear with Fallout remover to remove heaviest iron deposits from brakes/exhausts. This is not wheel cleaner - that is a separate product. Leave to dwell and react - you'll see it change colour. Once done, don't let it dry on the car. rinse.
2. Use a QD or Clay Lube (often same kind of stuff) and spray a panel and then section by section using a bar (medium grade) go over the paint in straight lines till it feels smooth and has removed any tar or debris left over from previous wash steps. Now. You have the option to purchase a quality clay mitt and these will save a lot of time. Its personal preference. I used to use just bars. But a mitt came into my possession and i've never looked back. They are quicker. Go in straight lines. Make sure to lube the paint and mitt to make sure you are minimising contact iwth the surface and its lubricated and do this over the entire car. You will know when you are finished when you can run your fingers over the paint and it glides, feels like glass and no longer grabs the mitt. Depending on the state of the paint this can take some time if the car has never been clayed before. Take your time. Use lots of spray to lubricate the process and you'll minimise risk of further damage. You can do this on glass and plastics as well.
3. You can choose to wash the car again as per step 2 above at this point.
At this stage i would say that you are pretty much ready to begin the correction phase. There are other steps that can be taken on top of the above but i've left some out that aren't specifically necessary.
Stage. 4
Inspect and prep your paint for polishing
1. Check panels for laquer peel and damage and mark these off straight away. You don't want to cause further damage if you don't need too.
2. Tape up the panel gaps. Using painters tape (masking tape if you don't have it). Mask up panel gaps and split up larger panels into smaller workable sections.
3. Mask off plastics. Trim etc. Everything you don't want polish effecting etc.
4. You are now ready to polish.
Stage 5/6/7 - Cutting/Finishing/Protection
This is the stage of the work which will give you the clarity and gloss you are after. The deep glass like shine you see on show cars isn't from a wax/ceramic or sealant. Those are all protective layers sealing in the finish that you've got through your cutting and finishing stages.
I can (but wont here) give detail of methods and techinques with a polisher. There are videos on you tube but the key again is practice practice practice. I will reitterate this will take at least 12 hours in one day to do an "ok" job. I could easily take up to 3-4 days per full correction detail for a customers car. Some of hte work i've done for the classic car show took me that long if not longer. Putting 30+hrs into the paint work correction itself before you touch the wheels/interior/trims etc. An ok 1 day enthusiast job is fine. But its all about time patience and technique. So all considerations. Most of your finish though will come through how well you've prep'd the car before hand.
In terms of how you then protect your work. I would not recommend ceramic coating the car yourself if you haven't the experience. You can cause yourself some big headaches. A good sealant, something si02 infused or something ceramic tech based can offer anything up to maybe 8-12 months protection depending on how well the car is prepared and how well the product is applied. This can enhance the gloss and depth but its more used to protect the work you've done. I would recommend a good ceramix wax or a hybrid sealant. Sealant is easy to apply if you follow the instructions. But can go wrong if you use it in the sun or don't pay attention and let it flash too long etc.
Any questions feel free to pm or post back. Happy to help.
Scooby Regular
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 64
Likes: 7
From: sutton coldfield
hi Steve, this reply is very helpful as with this downtime I’d like to get a few swirl marks out of my car. How much would it cost for the above? If I’m correct which I may not be your looking at over 500 for the above when I could buy the products myself for around 100 and have a go? Cheers
I'd reckon yes, depending on where you get it done and by how long it takes and not seeing the paint to assess. I'd estimate anywhere from £375 for a small job of circa 1day (10 ish hours) to anywhere north of £700 depending how much work is involved. I mean the more hours needed the more the cost. So, doing it yourself if you have the time, will certainly save you money.
Start soft so to speak. So go soft pad, don't go hard pad/hard cut straight away. Easier to work up to what you need than hit it too hard straight away. If that makes sense.
Scooby Regular
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,118
Likes: 673
From: north west
Hey. Glad its useful. Certainly have the time to be looking at it if you have the space and safety to do so.
I'd reckon yes, depending on where you get it done and by how long it takes and not seeing the paint to assess. I'd estimate anywhere from £375 for a small job of circa 1day (10 ish hours) to anywhere north of £700 depending how much work is involved. I mean the more hours needed the more the cost. So, doing it yourself if you have the time, will certainly save you money.
Start soft so to speak. So go soft pad, don't go hard pad/hard cut straight away. Easier to work up to what you need than hit it too hard straight away. If that makes sense.
I'd reckon yes, depending on where you get it done and by how long it takes and not seeing the paint to assess. I'd estimate anywhere from £375 for a small job of circa 1day (10 ish hours) to anywhere north of £700 depending how much work is involved. I mean the more hours needed the more the cost. So, doing it yourself if you have the time, will certainly save you money.
Start soft so to speak. So go soft pad, don't go hard pad/hard cut straight away. Easier to work up to what you need than hit it too hard straight away. If that makes sense.
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Scooby Regular
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 64
Likes: 7
From: sutton coldfield
Say if i was starting from scratch - like nothing. I would have this shopping list
2 x Buckets
2 x Grit Guards
Car Shampoon - PH Neutral
Snowfoam
All Purpose Cleaner
Wheel Cleaner
Clay Mitt/Bar
Iron/Fallout remover
Glass Cleaner
Trim Restorer
Tyre Restorer (if thats your thing - i kind of prefer natural looking tyres)
Metal Polish
Interior Detailer
That would be everything for wash stage. Most of the work is in the prep. Getting the car free from contaminants and also removing the protection that may be present before any kind of correction takes place. You know this i think but i figured i'd re-iterate for anyone coming to the thread later on or new to it.
If you have a garage i would recommend some good lighting to see the swirls and your progress a lot clearer than in say daylight.
Paint Tape/Masking Tape to mask off edges - You don't want to hit or cut through any soft edges of paint. Door shuts, bonnet edges, scoop edges, handles, plastic trim. etc. Mask these all off. Protect against polish and damage etc.
Also then mask off sections of the car and do each section at a time. Square sections and do each section at a time. Avoid raised edges like bonnet bulges etc. Never try and cut those lines, machine up to them but not on them (check out the below vids for more info).
Then you need -
Dual Action Machine Polisher
Polishing Pads - Hard Cut/Medium Cut/Soft/FInishing Pad and i'd opt for at least 2 x each as you don't want to a) use a dirty pad and b) if you get your technique wrong you can quite easily destroy a pad even with a DA very quickly. So you have backups and don't have to cut a job short.
Compound - Heavy Cut / Medium Cut / Finishing
PA / Panel Wipe
Sealant / Ceramic / Wax (combination there of or singular) for protection
Now in terms of where to get this stuff from. I personally don't use halfords, it's rare they have what you need and you'll be paying over the odds on what they do have. Better to use an online specialist retailer. You'll get the more professional side of products and pay that bit less overall. Totally up to you though. That is just my opinion.
Try - https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/
Then you can check these few handy links out -
Junkman is a great set of videos showing you the theory and practical - he's very knowledgeable - there are a lot of videos but you know, at the moment, you may have more free time LOL
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ZDRjGHmR-CbWJR
Megs have done a few recent ones which are much shorter but give more tips than how to's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BO1OHVegbew
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,118
Likes: 673
From: north west
I guess it helps to know what you've got in your arsenal already?
Say if i was starting from scratch - like nothing. I would have this shopping list
2 x Buckets
2 x Grit Guards
Car Shampoon - PH Neutral
Snowfoam
All Purpose Cleaner
Wheel Cleaner
Clay Mitt/Bar
Iron/Fallout remover
Glass Cleaner
Trim Restorer
Tyre Restorer (if thats your thing - i kind of prefer natural looking tyres)
Metal Polish
Interior Detailer
That would be everything for wash stage. Most of the work is in the prep. Getting the car free from contaminants and also removing the protection that may be present before any kind of correction takes place. You know this i think but i figured i'd re-iterate for anyone coming to the thread later on or new to it.
If you have a garage i would recommend some good lighting to see the swirls and your progress a lot clearer than in say daylight.
Paint Tape/Masking Tape to mask off edges - You don't want to hit or cut through any soft edges of paint. Door shuts, bonnet edges, scoop edges, handles, plastic trim. etc. Mask these all off. Protect against polish and damage etc.
Also then mask off sections of the car and do each section at a time. Square sections and do each section at a time. Avoid raised edges like bonnet bulges etc. Never try and cut those lines, machine up to them but not on them (check out the below vids for more info).
Then you need -
Dual Action Machine Polisher
Polishing Pads - Hard Cut/Medium Cut/Soft/FInishing Pad and i'd opt for at least 2 x each as you don't want to a) use a dirty pad and b) if you get your technique wrong you can quite easily destroy a pad even with a DA very quickly. So you have backups and don't have to cut a job short.
Compound - Heavy Cut / Medium Cut / Finishing
PA / Panel Wipe
Sealant / Ceramic / Wax (combination there of or singular) for protection
Now in terms of where to get this stuff from. I personally don't use halfords, it's rare they have what you need and you'll be paying over the odds on what they do have. Better to use an online specialist retailer. You'll get the more professional side of products and pay that bit less overall. Totally up to you though. That is just my opinion.
Try - https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/
Then you can check these few handy links out -
Junkman is a great set of videos showing you the theory and practical - he's very knowledgeable - there are a lot of videos but you know, at the moment, you may have more free time LOL
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ZDRjGHmR-CbWJR
Megs have done a few recent ones which are much shorter but give more tips than how to's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBzCKqnXsCQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeiiCyOJang
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BO1OHVegbew
Say if i was starting from scratch - like nothing. I would have this shopping list
2 x Buckets
2 x Grit Guards
Car Shampoon - PH Neutral
Snowfoam
All Purpose Cleaner
Wheel Cleaner
Clay Mitt/Bar
Iron/Fallout remover
Glass Cleaner
Trim Restorer
Tyre Restorer (if thats your thing - i kind of prefer natural looking tyres)
Metal Polish
Interior Detailer
That would be everything for wash stage. Most of the work is in the prep. Getting the car free from contaminants and also removing the protection that may be present before any kind of correction takes place. You know this i think but i figured i'd re-iterate for anyone coming to the thread later on or new to it.
If you have a garage i would recommend some good lighting to see the swirls and your progress a lot clearer than in say daylight.
Paint Tape/Masking Tape to mask off edges - You don't want to hit or cut through any soft edges of paint. Door shuts, bonnet edges, scoop edges, handles, plastic trim. etc. Mask these all off. Protect against polish and damage etc.
Also then mask off sections of the car and do each section at a time. Square sections and do each section at a time. Avoid raised edges like bonnet bulges etc. Never try and cut those lines, machine up to them but not on them (check out the below vids for more info).
Then you need -
Dual Action Machine Polisher
Polishing Pads - Hard Cut/Medium Cut/Soft/FInishing Pad and i'd opt for at least 2 x each as you don't want to a) use a dirty pad and b) if you get your technique wrong you can quite easily destroy a pad even with a DA very quickly. So you have backups and don't have to cut a job short.
Compound - Heavy Cut / Medium Cut / Finishing
PA / Panel Wipe
Sealant / Ceramic / Wax (combination there of or singular) for protection
Now in terms of where to get this stuff from. I personally don't use halfords, it's rare they have what you need and you'll be paying over the odds on what they do have. Better to use an online specialist retailer. You'll get the more professional side of products and pay that bit less overall. Totally up to you though. That is just my opinion.
Try - https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/
Then you can check these few handy links out -
Junkman is a great set of videos showing you the theory and practical - he's very knowledgeable - there are a lot of videos but you know, at the moment, you may have more free time LOL
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ZDRjGHmR-CbWJR
Megs have done a few recent ones which are much shorter but give more tips than how to's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBzCKqnXsCQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeiiCyOJang
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BO1OHVegbew
Scooby Regular
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 64
Likes: 7
From: sutton coldfield
Hey man, this might be my fault. Too much detail and can make it seem daunting. So a bit of practice and you'll feel better. Trust me, its daunting the first time, but when you start to see results you feel a lot better. From halfords buy the Megs Ultimate Compound. Get yourself some pads -these will do to start you off - https://www.halfords.com/motoring/ca...ft-409378.html and have a go on your practice panel and see what you think afterwards?
That said, If you want. When all this stuff is over with. I am more than happy take a road trip with my car and come and meet you and we just clean the cars together - not saying we can fully correct the car in one day but certainly a few hours can show you the basics. Give you a few hints and tips. It's much easier buddying up and watching someone else do it. Not a problem at all and no money involved, be happy to help man.
Scooby Regular
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,118
Likes: 673
From: north west
Hey man, this might be my fault. Too much detail and can make it seem daunting. So a bit of practice and you'll feel better. Trust me, its daunting the first time, but when you start to see results you feel a lot better. From halfords buy the Megs Ultimate Compound. Get yourself some pads -these will do to start you off - https://www.halfords.com/motoring/ca...ft-409378.html and have a go on your practice panel and see what you think afterwards?
That said, If you want. When all this stuff is over with. I am more than happy take a road trip with my car and come and meet you and we just clean the cars together - not saying we can fully correct the car in one day but certainly a few hours can show you the basics. Give you a few hints and tips. It's much easier buddying up and watching someone else do it. Not a problem at all and no money involved, be happy to help man.
That said, If you want. When all this stuff is over with. I am more than happy take a road trip with my car and come and meet you and we just clean the cars together - not saying we can fully correct the car in one day but certainly a few hours can show you the basics. Give you a few hints and tips. It's much easier buddying up and watching someone else do it. Not a problem at all and no money involved, be happy to help man.
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