Hello people,
Newbie here.

Just looking for some ideas/help on buying my first Subaru.

Please dont shout at me but im going to try and avoid the classic shape. (There are too many where I live and I want something different)

I have in the region of 9k to spend.
Am going to look at a bugeye with 45k on the clock tommorrow.

I cant really justify the insurance on an sti so its going to have to be a wrx at the moment.

Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks in advance

 

I drive a classic (and love it thank you very much) so not much good on advice for bug eye
Look for FSSH, tread wear etc etc - usual stuff with most cars
And drive it
I looked at a bug eye a while ago but couldn't get comfortable so stuck with the classic - but thats probably just me (waiting for the grilling about how uncomfortable classics are)

You buying from a dealer or private?

 

Honestly nothing meant by the not wanting a classic comment.
I love the shape of them.

When you say couldn't get comfortable, what do you mean?

And Im looking at the car privately but I can buy from trade or private?

 

https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...ats-worth.html

Good spec and maybe in your price range with some haggling for goodies.

 

No offence taken with the classic comment, jsut showing how much I love my classic - still waiting for my bashing from bug eye owners

Just didn't feel comfortable sat in the car and driving it. I love the way I sit in the classic and always feel right at home - didn't get this with the bug eye. It just felt unnatural to me (if that makes sense)

A lot of thats probably down to the shape of my boney body though

as for trade vs private - a dealer will probably give warranty etc and it'll have been givena good looking at
Private you don't know how well looked after its been - although if you buy from someone on SN (as above) chances are its been well looked after

 

1. Do not buy the first one you see. Go and look at/drive as many as you can
2. Do not buy anything without FSH
3. Do not buy anything that shows obvious problems blue/black/ excessive white smoke. Check for oil/water contaimination
4.Do not buy anything that has been excessivley modified unless you can be sure the modifications were done by someone who knew what they were doing and all supporting mods have been done.
5. Check the ECU for fault codes
6. Make sure you get an HPI check done.

Personally, I would buy something as close to standard as I could possibly get (but that's just me) I wouldn't want one that has a Dump valve/induction kit added. A exhaust mod would be fine, so long as if it has been decatted, the necessary ECU remap has been made.

 

£9k may now just get you into 03 blobeye WRX PPP territory. My old car (click "View my Scoob" to seeit) was recently advertised for under £9k and sold (I believe) I'd guess at somewhere near. As for insuring an STi, it can be cheaper for a standard STi than a modded WRX. Many on here have paid more for a PPP'd WRX than a similar age STi, after that any other mods may bump it up more.

 

I bought my bugeye with 56k on the clock for £7600. I'd possibly look for something with over 50k (and a FSSH) to ensure the cambelt had been changed (otherwise you'll be forking out on a relatively expensive service quite soon after buying).

I also bought mine with PPP fitted, which I'd recommend as it'd be another £1000 or so if you were to get it fitted after purchase.

 

https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...ats-worth.html

Im hoping to go and look at this one tommorrow?
What do you think?


And with regards to mods. Once I've bought the car im going to be limited on money for a little while so I want one thats had a few bits done but nothing over the top!

 

It's been echoed above, but make sure you know when the next service is and how much it might cost. Factor in tyre wear and brake disc and pad wear. Sometimes a bargain is available because you have to spend a further £1000 as soon as you've bought it

 

recently just bought a 2002 WRX with 28k on the clock, FSSH, some nice extras and it's absolutely mint.

Here's a few things I do when checking out a car...

1. Check for any body damage - you'd be surprised how many people are driving about dodge body repaired cars full of filler and don't even know it. Check for color differences, tap any areas that might look suspect to check if they've been filled, check the boot floor etc, look for imperfections in lacer or over spray etc, etc. My brothers a panel beater so I always take him with me but take your time and really look over it
2. Obviously drive it - at first (if private sale) ask the owner to take you out in it (this way you can see how it's been driven). Next drive it yourself. Make sure no stereo is on so that you can hear every little noise that might occur
3. Check the clutch pulls hard, all gear changes are smooth and no braking vibrations
4. Check condition of all tyres (expensive to replace when you've just bought a new car - you can also knock them down on price)
5. Carry out under bonnet checks, look for leaks, check levels (if these are low normally means not well maintained or there's a leak) - also worth checking the battery with a multi meter - takes a few secs and could mean the difference of replacing a battery, alternator or both
6. Check all the electrical components work, air con, e/w, locking etc
7. Ask to see the FSH documentation and also receipts if available, check the details tally
8. Ask lots of questions, if you get a reply that sounds dodgy it probably is

Good luck car hunting - there's plenty out there so don't rush into anything. When I was looking I checked some of the below so might be worth a look...

PistonHeads.com :: Speed Matters
eBay UK - The UK's Online Marketplace
www. autotrader.co.uk
Used Cars for Sale in the UK from Exchange & Mart
Classifieds.co.uk - Free Classified Ads - Buy - Sell - Announce - Freeads

 

Looks excellent. Only thing I can see missing is a Whiteline rear ARB, which is probably the single best handling mod you can make to any Scoob for so little money.

When he states Prodrive/Eibach springs, Prodive springs are made by Eibach, but Eibach springs are a different specification. Prodrive are better and thus dearer and Eibach are not allowed to market their own to Prodrives spec under the licensing agreement.

 

Thanks for the wise words.
I've just done some insurance quotes and its only an extra 220 quid a year for an sti?

So that gives me a lot more options