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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 11:20 PM
  #541  
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Just secured a PRODRIVE high level spoiler in vgc,been after one for ages so very happy!
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 06:10 PM
  #542  
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Oh, hello.....







Phase 1 complete
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 06:27 PM
  #543  
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Fooking awesome dude
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 08:57 PM
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Trial fit of the custom FMIC to see how she fits in my good friend Ross's trick P1.
Have to say I am so very impressed with the workmanship on this and it fits like it grew there,once the radiator is mounted to it it will be one sick setup!!
[IMG][/QUOTE][/IMG]
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 09:04 PM
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Looks good
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 09:05 PM
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Thanks mate
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 09:05 PM
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that top hose is way too short.
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 09:12 PM
  #548  
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Looking good Ryan, you never know it may nearly be approaching the quality of my Spec C if you put some more effort in.
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 09:14 PM
  #549  
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 09:15 PM
  #550  
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Originally Posted by Cannon Fodder
Looking good Ryan, you never know it may nearly be approaching the quality of my Spec C if you put some more effort in.

Trust you Ty
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 11:08 PM
  #551  
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Where's the rad going? In front of the intercooler core?
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 11:36 PM
  #552  
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Originally Posted by mickywrx
Where's the rad going? In front of the intercooler core?
Yes Micky a custom rad is being built to fit right up against the IC core and bolt to one another
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 11:50 PM
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I've seen this Intercooler/Radiator combo and looking very nice,I would say awesome


Jura
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 11:55 PM
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Why would you want to to bolt a radiator at 90-100 deg c to an intercooler that you are trying to keep as cool as possible. makes no sense you are introducing heat transfer for the sake of asthetics
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 09:10 AM
  #555  
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You're right Ryan, the quality of the intercooler/rad combo on Ross's P1 is very very impressive. Works well too with charge temps no issue whatsoever even after a good pasting on the dyno.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 09:20 AM
  #556  
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Originally Posted by Arch
Why would you want to to bolt a radiator at 90-100 deg c to an intercooler that you are trying to keep as cool as possible. makes no sense you are introducing heat transfer for the sake of asthetics
It's not like this is the first time it's been done. Lateral performance have been selling a combo much like this made by Pace for years.

http://lateralperformance.co.uk/prod...cdb2962f5ce5c5

Seen a fair few cars running the Pace/Lateral setup and can't say I've seen any issues regarding heat transfer whilst on the move. Whilst stationary of course you may well be correct, but unless you log the conventional setup and this setup in the same conditions, it's all speculative.
And as for the why ? It's got far more to do with having the shortest possible intercooler pipe route than the aesthetics !
The efficiency of the intercooler on Ross's car was very good

Last edited by MartynJ; Oct 14, 2012 at 09:23 AM.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 10:25 AM
  #557  
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Need I say more Archie
Thanks Martyn I look forward to having you work the magic come mapping time
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 11:05 AM
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Where you putting the fan Ryan? Assuming you are refitting it?
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 11:10 AM
  #559  
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Originally Posted by mickywrx
Where you putting the fan Ryan? Assuming you are refitting it?
It will be mounted on the radiator on the engine side on the passenger side so it blows at the closest point to water entering the engine Micky
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 11:33 AM
  #560  
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Originally Posted by Arch
Why would you want to to bolt a radiator at 90-100 deg c to an intercooler that you are trying to keep as cool as possible. makes no sense you are introducing heat transfer for the sake of asthetics
Having the 2 closer together actually promotes airflow, for example having a large cavity between the 2 means the air is slowed down. Added to that the cores both run the same way so there's no polarisation. Also the rad is mounted via phalonic bushes to stop heat soak.... Even though it would be minimal anyway.
Another plus is the pack can be whipped out in a matter of minutes making it easy to work on the car

Originally Posted by MartynJ
You're right Ryan, the quality of the intercooler/rad combo on Ross's P1 is very very impressive. Works well too with charge temps no issue whatsoever even after a good pasting on the dyno.
What he said ^^^^^
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 12:03 PM
  #561  
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martyn..... id hazard a guess this un will work even better than mine mate
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 01:17 PM
  #562  
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Originally Posted by rossdj1983
martyn..... id hazard a guess this un will work even better than mine mate
Super cool
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 01:23 PM
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Various ways of doing it Martyn i will be changing my set up to include a set up which has the pipework coming out as per the RS500 type but will keep the intercooler and Rad set ups seperate. I would be concerned about heat transfer during sprints when I am sat que'd waiting to go out with no airflow and given most of the sprints are under 1.5 mins how long will it take to drop the inlet temps down again? Just my thoughts.
Suppose each set up has to be designed for the useage the car will get but there are ways to keep the hot radiator away from the intercooler and still reduce the pipework to a minimum.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rossdj1983
Having the 2 closer together actually promotes airflow, for example having a large cavity between the 2 means the air is slowed down. Added to that the cores both run the same way so there's no polarisation. Also the rad is mounted via phalonic bushes to stop heat soak.... Even though it would be minimal anyway.
Another plus is the pack can be whipped out in a matter of minutes making it easy to work on the car
I have a set of fans mounted between the intercooler and radiator which pull cold air through the intercooler and then through the rad so temps at standstill are kept to a min. When the car is moving I have no temp issues at all so any slowing of the air is obviously not an issue for me in practice as opposed to theory.
A set of fans mounted on the car side of a combined pack will never be as effective if set to pull air through. If set to push air through the radiator then hot air will be forced over the intercooler.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 01:37 PM
  #565  
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Originally Posted by Arch
Various ways of doing it Martyn i will be changing my set up to include a set up which has the pipework coming out as per the RS500 type but will keep the intercooler and Rad set ups seperate. I would be concerned about heat transfer during sprints when I am sat que'd waiting to go out with no airflow and given most of the sprints are under 1.5 mins how long will it take to drop the inlet temps down again? Just my thoughts.
Suppose each set up has to be designed for the useage the car will get but there are ways to keep the hot radiator away from the intercooler and still reduce the pipework to a minimum.
Going from how well the setup performs on Ross's car I have no fear of heat soak tbho arch,if the car was primarilly based around sprints etc I 'might' think it could an issue but I doubt it given how efficiently the core works.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 02:13 PM
  #566  
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Originally Posted by Sa5555ra
I'm abit lost right now but I know one thing I don't want it to be an over the top colour.
Bit lost in what mate?
It won't be over the trust me
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 02:22 PM
  #567  
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Originally Posted by Arch
I have a set of fans mounted between the intercooler and radiator which pull cold air through the intercooler and then through the rad so temps at standstill are kept to a min. When the car is moving I have no temp issues at all so any slowing of the air is obviously not an issue for me in practice as opposed to theory.
A set of fans mounted on the car side of a combined pack will never be as effective if set to pull air through. If set to push air through the radiator then hot air will be forced over the intercooler.
So you got push type fans mounted to the front of the rad?
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 04:32 PM
  #568  
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So it was time to get a bit of primer going on a few of the panels,I made the decision to put 2K direct gloss black as the final coat to allow me to see the imperfections more easily as the one's which have become apparent are not visible in straight primer nor are you able to really feel them with your hand unless you know where they are.
The 2K direct gloss is a very thick paint which will act very much as primer when I block the panels down ready for base coat and clear.
Also got the catch can into position and put the riv-nuts into the chassis leg ready for mounting plus I also welded over the last 4 holes in the engine bay 2 being in the bulk head and the other 2 were where the ABS wires went down to the sensors on the hubs and finally filled to smooth
I also got the flat floor in with riv-nuts through the 2 panels into the chassis along with a good layer of sealant










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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 04:40 PM
  #569  
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Looking very nice indeed Ryan, I know when I last popped in that you were trying to decide on a colour but that black looks really good. It's almost a shame to use it as a primer as it's better than most people's final topcoat.

You know what colour would be my first choice but black is a very worthy runner up whatever your final choice.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Cannon Fodder
Looking very nice indeed Ryan, I know when I last popped in that you were trying to decide on a colour but that black looks really good. It's almost a shame to use it as a primer as it's better than most people's final topcoat.

You know what colour would be my first choice but black is a very worthy runner up whatever your final choice.
Thanks Ty,after we last spoke about the final colour I may have changed my mind again
Using the 2K black is the best way to get all the imperfections caught and dealt with before final paint application as black gloss shows anything and all little marks/dents/wobbles.
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