SBR 2.35 Bugeye Wagon JDM WRX AVCS Project
15 April 2012, 12:19 AM
#331
Little update:
We are been today get mapped at SRR our AEM Water Methanol injection with 50 water/50methanol mix and we are made below figures,plus we are get finally sorted wideband,its finally fitted and we are finally running full time wideband via Syvecs
Duncan work again with his magic and fit for us Wideband for which we are really appreciated and really thanks to Duncan for this
Again thanks Duncan for mapping and for fitting and mapping the wideband.
Plus thanks too Charlie for Syvecs stickers and for hospitality
Here are bellow dyno runs for T99 with 50/50 water methanol inkection
Please note,this is only Water methanol injection,not proper 20% mixing methanol in the tank with Vpower or T99,AEM Water methanol working only at range from 1.0-1.5bar(at 1.5bar is water methanol injection shut down/switched off).Water methanol will not replace methanol mixing with fuel at tank,but only help for better safety
Jura
We are been today get mapped at SRR our AEM Water Methanol injection with 50 water/50methanol mix and we are made below figures,plus we are get finally sorted wideband,its finally fitted and we are finally running full time wideband via Syvecs
Duncan work again with his magic and fit for us Wideband for which we are really appreciated and really thanks to Duncan for this
Again thanks Duncan for mapping and for fitting and mapping the wideband
.Plus thanks too Charlie for Syvecs stickers and for hospitality
Here are bellow dyno runs for T99 with 50/50 water methanol inkection
Please note,this is only Water methanol injection,not proper 20% mixing methanol in the tank with Vpower or T99,AEM Water methanol working only at range from 1.0-1.5bar(at 1.5bar is water methanol injection shut down/switched off).Water methanol will not replace methanol mixing with fuel at tank,but only help for better safety
Jura
I don't get why you are useing W/M injection, from the boost graph and what you have said it must only be activated up to 3800rpm or so and isn't running at all when the turbo is at full boost and air charge temps would be high, or am I missing something?
Trev
Last edited by trevsjwood; 15 April 2012 at 12:22 AM.
15 April 2012, 02:19 PM
#332
Thanks Rob,but looking like WhiteLine ALK is increasing the lift,not decreasing the lift and we will need again our old setup which has been amazing on drag...Not the best on track,but great on fast road
Second though are we will go with front splitter(something like APR front splitter)
About the PM please let us know
Jura
Hi Jura,
I don't get why you are useing W/M injection, from the boost graph and what you have said it must only be activated up to 3800rpm or so and isn't running at all when the turbo is at full boost and air charge temps would be high, or am I missing something?
Trev
I don't get why you are useing W/M injection, from the boost graph and what you have said it must only be activated up to 3800rpm or so and isn't running at all when the turbo is at full boost and air charge temps would be high, or am I missing something?
Trev
Hi Trev you are not missing nothing on road and from logs we are hitting 1 bar@2700-3000RPM and full boost at 3600-3800RPM.
Still is not finished and still will need to plug into ECU,when ECU will be controlled operation of this and not the supplied controller..
3% increase at power is not too much,but if will be plugged into Syvecs hope so we will see more
Jura
20 April 2012, 12:29 AM
#333
Few updates
We are been at Dixon Motorsport get done our alignment with WhiteLine Roll Center Adjustment Kit,we are been there almost 6 hours,because they stripped thread/bolts on one side of the hub and replaced damaged thread with Heli-coil ball joint(or something similar)
Everything has been fine until we are drove few meters and we are get small vibration from front end,we ar think,we are all ready running the lot of camber and we shouldn't have rubbing issue at all on small corners(on heavy cornering i would say,yes without the running spacers we will have issue due we are running 245/40 ZR18 as road tyres)
But after driving on M25 we are hit the traffic and best thing what to do(in our view),find the shortcut,but after few miles we are lost somewhere near Tonbridge and my brother want make U-turn and when he turn on full lock,we are lost power,like clutch slippage,but curious has been we can change gears without the problem and we ruled out clutch problem,we are tried move,but we are hardly move above 12MPH at 4K RPM,we are straight away called like Neil and he said,can be driveshaft problem
After that we are called again Breakdown and they come after 1 hour,which has been reasonably quick,car is now at Neil@Slowboy Racing for further invesigation(bellow are results of Neil investigation)
Update from Neil
We got the car up on the Ramps today for a closer look. This is the first
time since collecting the car. As suspected the off side front drive shaft
has separated from the CV joint resulting in the loss of drive. The cause of
this is due to the shafts retaining clip not being located correctly. This
can be due to incorrect fitment of the shaft into the CV or force used when
pulling the hub away from the car, whilst the shaft is still attached to the
diff.
This is something that “could” be missed and wouldn’t always show on final
inspection if you’re not familiar with this car. Of course that’s assuming
the hub was pulled while the shaft was still attached to the diff, rather
than separated on the bench. Had the car have been test driven, it should
have been apparent from the start on lock or hard corner angles.
It’s very unfortunate it happened, the rest of the fitment is done very
well.
Here is picture of driveshaft
Jura
We are been at Dixon Motorsport get done our alignment with WhiteLine Roll Center Adjustment Kit,we are been there almost 6 hours,because they stripped thread/bolts on one side of the hub and replaced damaged thread with Heli-coil ball joint(or something similar)
Everything has been fine until we are drove few meters and we are get small vibration from front end,we ar think,we are all ready running the lot of camber and we shouldn't have rubbing issue at all on small corners(on heavy cornering i would say,yes without the running spacers we will have issue due we are running 245/40 ZR18 as road tyres)
But after driving on M25 we are hit the traffic and best thing what to do(in our view),find the shortcut,but after few miles we are lost somewhere near Tonbridge and my brother want make U-turn and when he turn on full lock,we are lost power,like clutch slippage,but curious has been we can change gears without the problem and we ruled out clutch problem,we are tried move,but we are hardly move above 12MPH at 4K RPM,we are straight away called like Neil and he said,can be driveshaft problem
After that we are called again Breakdown and they come after 1 hour,which has been reasonably quick,car is now at Neil@Slowboy Racing for further invesigation(bellow are results of Neil investigation)
Update from Neil
We got the car up on the Ramps today for a closer look. This is the first
time since collecting the car. As suspected the off side front drive shaft
has separated from the CV joint resulting in the loss of drive. The cause of
this is due to the shafts retaining clip not being located correctly. This
can be due to incorrect fitment of the shaft into the CV or force used when
pulling the hub away from the car, whilst the shaft is still attached to the
diff.
This is something that “could” be missed and wouldn’t always show on final
inspection if you’re not familiar with this car. Of course that’s assuming
the hub was pulled while the shaft was still attached to the diff, rather
than separated on the bench. Had the car have been test driven, it should
have been apparent from the start on lock or hard corner angles.
It’s very unfortunate it happened, the rest of the fitment is done very
well.
Here is picture of driveshaft
Jura
Last edited by jura11; 20 April 2012 at 05:52 PM.
20 April 2012, 07:50 PM
#337
what a w@nker...hope it a painless fix my friend 
This never happens to him and he apologise for this too and fully refunded my brother and offered free alignment setup/check as sorry.
But still for doing our jobs on our car,we will be using only Neil@Slowboy Racing he knows our car from start and mainly we are trust him
Jura
23 April 2012, 12:39 AM
#340
Hi Jeff
we are running without the blanket at moment(we are bought one,but we are sold this,because we are decide not to use)and seems everything is OK,underbonnet temps are OK
Really not sure if i could recommend,not tried and from reports seems reduce the underbonnet temps,but we are running MD turbo which is zircotec coated and this reduce temps underbonnet
Jura
23 April 2012, 08:02 AM
#341
Hi Jura, I've not forgot about the pm you sent me. I haven't had chance of late. I'll check it out this week.
Bad news about the drive problem, glad you got but sorted easily enough, and as for future work on your car, better the devil you know
Rob
Ps - making plans for Prague again ;-)
Bad news about the drive problem, glad you got but sorted easily enough, and as for future work on your car, better the devil you know
Rob
Ps - making plans for Prague again ;-)
23 April 2012, 08:02 AM
#342
Hi Jura, I've not forgot about the pm you sent me. I haven't had chance of late. I'll check it out this week.
Bad news about the drive problem, glad you got but sorted easily enough, and as for future work on your car, better the devil you know
Rob
Ps - making plans for Prague again ;-)
Bad news about the drive problem, glad you got but sorted easily enough, and as for future work on your car, better the devil you know
Rob
Ps - making plans for Prague again ;-)
28 April 2012, 04:28 PM
#343
Few updates:
Car is at Neil@ Slowboy racing for swapping our PnP Syvecs for CANbus Syvecs,due our Syvecs looking like is none CANbus version and full function of RT Dash2 we will need CANbus version
Second thing is we are looking for bigger power and our engine package including MDX321T is now for sale
Our plan is run 2.35L with GT30 or GT35 and something like 600bhp+...
Jura
Car is at Neil@ Slowboy racing for swapping our PnP Syvecs for CANbus Syvecs,due our Syvecs looking like is none CANbus version and full function of RT Dash2 we will need CANbus version
Second thing is we are looking for bigger power and our engine package including MDX321T is now for sale
Our plan is run 2.35L with GT30 or GT35 and something like 600bhp+...
Jura
28 April 2012, 04:35 PM
#344
Few updates:
Car is at Neil@ Slowboy racing for swapping our PnP Syvecs for CANbus Syvecs,due our Syvecs looking like is none CANbus version and full function of RT Dash2 we will need CANbus version
Second thing is we are looking for bigger power and our engine package including MDX321T is now for sale
Our plan is run 2.35L with GT30 or GT35 and something like 600bhp+...
Jura
Car is at Neil@ Slowboy racing for swapping our PnP Syvecs for CANbus Syvecs,due our Syvecs looking like is none CANbus version and full function of RT Dash2 we will need CANbus version
Second thing is we are looking for bigger power and our engine package including MDX321T is now for sale
Our plan is run 2.35L with GT30 or GT35 and something like 600bhp+...
Jura
Rob
28 April 2012, 07:44 PM
#351
As always we are want 2.35L but at this time we are never think we will go for more.This engine is OK for 550bhp,above that we will need lot of work and really 2.35L with GT30r/35r will be better choice
Jura
Jura
Yes Eddy,similar to yours
Jura
28 April 2012, 11:59 PM
#353
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Now with added 2.1 jun/cosworth power
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry to hear about the drive shaft problems mate.
Wow going for a 2.35 already, with a gt30 or 35 that will be an awesome machine when finished chap, look forward to seeing it progress mate, good luck with it all
Wow going for a 2.35 already, with a gt30 or 35 that will be an awesome machine when finished chap, look forward to seeing it progress mate, good luck with it all
29 April 2012, 01:22 AM
#354
About the 2.35L,we never know we will want go above 400bhp,our plan on start of this project has been have forged 2.0L after that 2.1 which Neil said will be OK for 550bhp,above that he don't recommend push the engine,because this engine never been build above that mark and we are never think we would like more and more BHP
We are happy with 2.1L if doesn't sell,we will enjoy for while 2.1L and Billet T.
Jura
29 April 2012, 12:43 PM
#355
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: 700+ WR1 aka The Vuvu Zela...10.6 @ 136 weighing 1370kg....say no more....
Posts: 3,734
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why better choice? Surely it will depend on what your end goal is?
29 April 2012, 12:55 PM
#356
I will ask you,why you are went with 2.35L on yours and not with 2.1L?
Our plan is 600bhp+ but as I know we will go further above that and that's the our point,why 2.35L and not the 2.1 which will cost same money.
Parts on this we would be buying from USA,my brother flying there usually 4 times per year.
Jura
29 April 2012, 01:24 PM
#357
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: 700+ WR1 aka The Vuvu Zela...10.6 @ 136 weighing 1370kg....say no more....
Posts: 3,734
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
JP wish is easy like we are want,our engine is based on OBD and as Neil said,above 550bhp he don't guarantee will engine last long
I will ask you,why you are went with 2.35L on yours and not with 2.1L?
Our plan is 600bhp+ but as I know we will go further above that and that's the our point,why 2.35L and not the 2.1 which will cost same money.
Parts on this we would be buying from USA,my brother flying there usually 4 times per year.
Jura
I will ask you,why you are went with 2.35L on yours and not with 2.1L?
Our plan is 600bhp+ but as I know we will go further above that and that's the our point,why 2.35L and not the 2.1 which will cost same money.
Parts on this we would be buying from USA,my brother flying there usually 4 times per year.
Jura
I'm not quite convinced that a full bells and whistle 2.35 would be the same cost as a 2.1?
Bear in mind, the greater the power the more expensive it gets and I'm not talking about getting there but after costs and pressure on other parts etc. The lifespan also decreases dependant on usage as you go up the power scale.
This is not to put you off on a 2.35 but just to give you some food for thought. Get it right and you could be strutting down at Pod...get it wrong and you'll be forever fixing it...
$ rate is pretty good at the momement if you can get parts from the US.
29 April 2012, 01:45 PM
#358
I went with the 2.35 as at the time it was the most suitable in terms of what my personal ultimate aim/goals were. The price of this wan't and isn't cheap but depends on what you have done to it - I had just about everything done to it! That said, mine had a lot of thought process put in and in the end, the power and torque figures it achieved demonstrated that the parts used (Lateral), engine build (Pennine) and Mapping (Zen Performance) came together 100%.
I'm not quite convinced that a full bells and whistle 2.35 would be the same cost as a 2.1?
Bear in mind, the greater the power the more expensive it gets and I'm not talking about getting there but after costs and pressure on other parts etc. The lifespan also decreases dependant on usage as you go up the power scale.
This is not to put you off on a 2.35 but just to give you some food for thought. Get it right and you could be strutting down at Pod...get it wrong and you'll be forever fixing it...
$ rate is pretty good at the momement if you can get parts from the US.
I'm not quite convinced that a full bells and whistle 2.35 would be the same cost as a 2.1?
Bear in mind, the greater the power the more expensive it gets and I'm not talking about getting there but after costs and pressure on other parts etc. The lifespan also decreases dependant on usage as you go up the power scale.
This is not to put you off on a 2.35 but just to give you some food for thought. Get it right and you could be strutting down at Pod...get it wrong and you'll be forever fixing it...
$ rate is pretty good at the momement if you can get parts from the US.
Agreed JP,seen your videos and looking amazing
About the everything,all depends on more factors if we would go with 2.35L or stick which we have now.
Our plan is get to 11's and enjoy some track days and after that we will see.
As I said my brother flying to USA where we can get all parts for our build if we will decide go with 2.35
Agreed more you go,more can go wrong,but this is with everything if you are trying to modify,nothing is bullet proof and mainly human stupidity is infinite
As I said,we will see,hope weather will be better and we can take wagon on Santa Pod,when you are planning go there
Jura
29 April 2012, 02:40 PM
#359
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: 700+ WR1 aka The Vuvu Zela...10.6 @ 136 weighing 1370kg....say no more....
Posts: 3,734
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cheers. At high HP levels there's lots of heartaches, headaches and patience required not to mention money for the always "unexpected" cost....mine was out for just over a year being tweaked before we took her to Pod beginning of Apr.
A proper mid 500s HP set up on a new age should see you in 11s...don't expect low 11s though as it's not that easy! I pulled an 11.1 at 575ish with full weight and spoiler back in 2010.
Next trip for me to Pod is May sometime, weather dependent. When are you due to go there?
A proper mid 500s HP set up on a new age should see you in 11s...don't expect low 11s though as it's not that easy! I pulled an 11.1 at 575ish with full weight and spoiler back in 2010.
Next trip for me to Pod is May sometime, weather dependent. When are you due to go there?
