Hi Jura,
I don't get why you are useing W/M injection, from the boost graph and what you have said it must only be activated up to 3800rpm or so and isn't running at all when the turbo is at full boost and air charge temps would be high, or am I missing something?
Trev

 

Thanks Rob,but looking like WhiteLine ALK is increasing the lift,not decreasing the lift and we will need again our old setup which has been amazing on drag...Not the best on track,but great on fast road

Second though are we will go with front splitter(something like APR front splitter)

About the PM please let us know


Jura


Hi Trev you are not missing nothing on road and from logs we are hitting 1 bar@2700-3000RPM and full boost at 3600-3800RPM.

Still is not finished and still will need to plug into ECU,when ECU will be controlled operation of this and not the supplied controller..

3% increase at power is not too much,but if will be plugged into Syvecs hope so we will see more

Jura

 

Few updates

We are been at Dixon Motorsport get done our alignment with WhiteLine Roll Center Adjustment Kit,we are been there almost 6 hours,because they stripped thread/bolts on one side of the hub and replaced damaged thread with Heli-coil ball joint(or something similar)

Everything has been fine until we are drove few meters and we are get small vibration from front end,we ar think,we are all ready running the lot of camber and we shouldn't have rubbing issue at all on small corners(on heavy cornering i would say,yes without the running spacers we will have issue due we are running 245/40 ZR18 as road tyres)

But after driving on M25 we are hit the traffic and best thing what to do(in our view),find the shortcut,but after few miles we are lost somewhere near Tonbridge and my brother want make U-turn and when he turn on full lock,we are lost power,like clutch slippage,but curious has been we can change gears without the problem and we ruled out clutch problem,we are tried move,but we are hardly move above 12MPH at 4K RPM,we are straight away called like Neil and he said,can be driveshaft problem

After that we are called again Breakdown and they come after 1 hour,which has been reasonably quick,car is now at Neil@Slowboy Racing for further invesigation(bellow are results of Neil investigation)

Update from Neil


We got the car up on the Ramps today for a closer look. This is the first
time since collecting the car. As suspected the off side front drive shaft
has separated from the CV joint resulting in the loss of drive. The cause of
this is due to the shafts retaining clip not being located correctly. This
can be due to incorrect fitment of the shaft into the CV or force used when
pulling the hub away from the car, whilst the shaft is still attached to the
diff.

This is something that “could” be missed and wouldn’t always show on final
inspection if you’re not familiar with this car. Of course that’s assuming
the hub was pulled while the shaft was still attached to the diff, rather
than separated on the bench. Had the car have been test driven, it should
have been apparent from the start on lock or hard corner angles.

It’s very unfortunate it happened, the rest of the fitment is done very
well.

Here is picture of driveshaft




Jura

 

Jura,
Hope you get it sorted!!

If you don't mind me asking, I take it you're not a native "Brit"?

 

Thanks Shaun hope so will be sorted soon.

No Shaun I'm not native Brit, I'm from Slovakia but I've long live at Czech republic


Jura

 

what a w@nker...hope it a painless fix my friend

 

Everything is sorted now and really Dixon have good reputation in Track day car preparation/Race car preparation and really he knows his stuff,when is coming to the Alignment setup.

This never happens to him and he apologise for this too and fully refunded my brother and offered free alignment setup/check as sorry.

But still for doing our jobs on our car,we will be using only Neil@Slowboy Racing he knows our car from start and mainly we are trust him


Jura

 

 

jura, do you use a turbo balnekt to help with underbonnet temps

or deem them unecissary?

 

Hi Jeff

we are running without the blanket at moment(we are bought one,but we are sold this,because we are decide not to use)and seems everything is OK,underbonnet temps are OK

Really not sure if i could recommend,not tried and from reports seems reduce the underbonnet temps,but we are running MD turbo which is zircotec coated and this reduce temps underbonnet


Jura

 

Hi Jura, I've not forgot about the pm you sent me. I haven't had chance of late. I'll check it out this week.

Bad news about the drive problem, glad you got but sorted easily enough, and as for future work on your car, better the devil you know

Rob

Ps - making plans for Prague again ;-)

 

Hi Jura, I've not forgot about the pm you sent me. I haven't had chance of late. I'll check it out this week.

Bad news about the drive problem, glad you got but sorted easily enough, and as for future work on your car, better the devil you know

Rob

Ps - making plans for Prague again ;-)

 

Few updates:

Car is at Neil@ Slowboy racing for swapping our PnP Syvecs for CANbus Syvecs,due our Syvecs looking like is none CANbus version and full function of RT Dash2 we will need CANbus version

Second thing is we are looking for bigger power and our engine package including MDX321T is now for sale

Our plan is run 2.35L with GT30 or GT35 and something like 600bhp+...


Jura

 

Bloody hell Jura, you've only had it 2 minutes. Surely the 2.1 will see 600bhp?

Rob

 

Always on the move aye Jura lol,looking forward to seeing her again on the 8th.
How much you looking for the MD321T billet?
Give me a PM mate

 

You've just bought a 20G LOL, stop being greedy

 

similar spec to me now then jura

 

Billet 20G Rob
No harm in getting one better

 

Good luck Jura, thought that was gonna be my next move. Next year maybe for me

Wiley

 

Wow Jura good luck on your next engine Project

Andy

 

Hi Rob

As always we are want 2.35L but at this time we are never think we will go for more.This engine is OK for 550bhp,above that we will need lot of work and really 2.35L with GT30r/35r will be better choice

Jura

See you on 8th and sorry,really we are looking sold this as whole package

Jura

Yes Eddy,similar to yours

Jura

 

Thanks Wiley enjoy yours for while and you will see if you will need more power



Jura

Thanks Andy


Jura

 

Sorry to hear about the drive shaft problems mate.
Wow going for a 2.35 already, with a gt30 or 35 that will be an awesome machine when finished chap, look forward to seeing it progress mate, good luck with it all

 

Thanks Ian,driveshaft is sorted and Neil has done great job

About the 2.35L,we never know we will want go above 400bhp,our plan on start of this project has been have forged 2.0L after that 2.1 which Neil said will be OK for 550bhp,above that he don't recommend push the engine,because this engine never been build above that mark and we are never think we would like more and more BHP

We are happy with 2.1L if doesn't sell,we will enjoy for while 2.1L and Billet T.


Jura

 

2.35 will need a lot of work too won't it?....The Enginetuner built 2.1's are doing some awesome power 600+ easily......

Why better choice? Surely it will depend on what your end goal is?

 

JP wish is easy like we are want,our engine is based on OBD and as Neil said,above 550bhp he don't guarantee will engine last long

I will ask you,why you are went with 2.35L on yours and not with 2.1L?

Our plan is 600bhp+ but as I know we will go further above that and that's the our point,why 2.35L and not the 2.1 which will cost same money.

Parts on this we would be buying from USA,my brother flying there usually 4 times per year.


Jura

 

I went with the 2.35 as at the time it was the most suitable in terms of what my personal ultimate aim/goals were. The price of this wan't and isn't cheap but depends on what you have done to it - I had just about everything done to it! That said, mine had a lot of thought process put in and in the end, the power and torque figures it achieved demonstrated that the parts used (Lateral), engine build (Pennine) and Mapping (Zen Performance) came together 100%.

I'm not quite convinced that a full bells and whistle 2.35 would be the same cost as a 2.1?

Bear in mind, the greater the power the more expensive it gets and I'm not talking about getting there but after costs and pressure on other parts etc. The lifespan also decreases dependant on usage as you go up the power scale.

This is not to put you off on a 2.35 but just to give you some food for thought. Get it right and you could be strutting down at Pod...get it wrong and you'll be forever fixing it...

$ rate is pretty good at the momement if you can get parts from the US.

 

Agreed JP,seen your videos and looking amazing

About the everything,all depends on more factors if we would go with 2.35L or stick which we have now.

Our plan is get to 11's and enjoy some track days and after that we will see.

As I said my brother flying to USA where we can get all parts for our build if we will decide go with 2.35

Agreed more you go,more can go wrong,but this is with everything if you are trying to modify,nothing is bullet proof and mainly human stupidity is infinite

As I said,we will see,hope weather will be better and we can take wagon on Santa Pod,when you are planning go there


Jura

 

Cheers. At high HP levels there's lots of heartaches, headaches and patience required not to mention money for the always "unexpected" cost....mine was out for just over a year being tweaked before we took her to Pod beginning of Apr.

A proper mid 500s HP set up on a new age should see you in 11s...don't expect low 11s though as it's not that easy! I pulled an 11.1 at 575ish with full weight and spoiler back in 2010.

Next trip for me to Pod is May sometime, weather dependent. When are you due to go there?

 

read the whole thread so far,looks a really nice wagon mate,should be epic once you have a 2.35 with a gt30 :P

keep up the good work!!!