Only Boosting to 7 psi
#32
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Sorted it!
It wasnt an electrical problem and it wasnt the MAF sensor or anything else like that. For some reason the idiot who owned the car before me decided to remove the bump stop for the accelerator pedal, causing the ECU to read about 110% throttle when I put my foot flat to the floor, and therefore putting it into limp home mode, why it didnt throw a cel I dont know, but that was the problem. Now I just need to buy a bump stop from somewhere, ebay or main dealer I think.
It wasnt an electrical problem and it wasnt the MAF sensor or anything else like that. For some reason the idiot who owned the car before me decided to remove the bump stop for the accelerator pedal, causing the ECU to read about 110% throttle when I put my foot flat to the floor, and therefore putting it into limp home mode, why it didnt throw a cel I dont know, but that was the problem. Now I just need to buy a bump stop from somewhere, ebay or main dealer I think.
#34
It wasnt an electrical problem and it wasnt the MAF sensor or anything else like that. For some reason the idiot who owned the car before me decided to remove the bump stop for the accelerator pedal, causing the ECU to read about 110% throttle when I put my foot flat to the floor, and therefore putting it into limp home mode, why it didnt throw a cel I dont know
Anyone with the ability to look at the diagnostic data would have been able to tell you exactly what was going on - although it's a moot point now if you're confident that the problem is fixed.
There's an obvious question though: Does your check engine light come on when you turn the ignition on (and go out after starting the engine)? If you don't see it come on at all, then the bulb has either failed or been removed by the previous owner.
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I spoke way to soon, I bodged something up to act as a stop and took the car out and its still doing the problem!!!!!!! The cel light does work as its supposed to. I'm now wondering if its buggered the throttle position sensor?
#38
As things stand it sounds likely that the problem your car is suffering is absolutely nothing to do with the removal of the pedal bumper. The next best move you could make is probably to get your car examined by someone capable of reading the diagnostic stream as this will remove a significant chunk of the guesswork and assumption under which you are currently labouring.
From what you've said so far, you don't see the check engine light when the boost pressure is limited. As such, it seems unlikely that the ECU is disabling boost (i.e. instigating limp mode) as under these circumstances you would expect to see the CEL.
As such, it seems possible, from what we know at this point, that it isn't actually limp mode at all, but some physical problem with the turbo or pressure control system - clogged boost pipework or sticking wastegate for example.
It is also highly unlikely to be a "dry joint" in the ECU. As has already been said, the manufacturing processes make this sort of problem very rare nowadays. In addition, if there was an issue of this sort in play, again it is highly likely that you would be seeing the CEL, whether for a faulty sensor, or the boost control solenoid circuit.
If you get the car diagnosed it'll be pretty obvious straightaway what is (or isn't) happening. If the wastegate solenoid duty is responding normally, for example, that rules out any sort of boost limiting in the ECU and implies that the problem is rooted under the bonnet. If on the other hand it's caused by a sensor misread, whether throttle position or elsewhere, it'll be obvious from looking at the real time data, if not the trouble code memory.
#40
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I really really appreciate the good advice, i'm gonna have to accept that I cant diagnose this myself and take it to a specialist, most of whom will have seen problems like this many times before.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
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I've used ECUExplorer to trouble shoot the problem, If I reset the ECU, I get normal boost for a short while (read a minute or so) then it drops back from around 14 psi to 7 psi. The key to the issue seems to be that the Ignition Advance Multiplier is getting knocked back from around 14 to as low as 2. This, the experts tell me, is due possibly to the ECU detecting knock. I have a standard build (no decats etc) and have run on V-Power without solving the problem.
I've given up trying to solve it myself and have the car booked into David at APi on October 2nd to look at this issue when he does MOT work and a major 100k service.
#51
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Booked in with Alan Jeffery on the October 1st, so should be sorted then. After that i'm selling it and buying an saloon. Bought a wagon intending on using it for work, but shower doors wont fit inside this. Still, doesnt seem like there are many blobeye wagons on PH atm, so should sell quick.
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You'll definately sell it mate. As far as i can see, there is quite alot of demand for blob station wagons. However i was lead to believe it was the sti versions that are the very very saught after ones.
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